Checked my CK edition from Mike's first run of them and its tip sits higher than this new BF rams horn. Still not an issue for it. But looks like there is some variation in edge bevel grinding.
It's carpet beetles. But who has carpets for them to hide in these days?No, but during covid we need to solve the problems that don't exist just as thoroughly as those that do
Have never seen a bug, nor bug damage on horn handles. And have some in my collection 100 years old. But, others experience may vary.
Congratulations! You got one of the zebra unicorns, too!Mine came earlier than expected, this past Monday (after the USPS tracker predicted today, Wednesday). Unfortunately I had already left home to hunt for a few days, and just got to open it up and look today. What a great surprise - I got the Rachel model - looks a bit like the Hatteras Lighthouse. Great walk & talk, great fit & finish, very sharp, and cool to boot! OH
Ps I take it the tang etch of "M390" is the blade steel? Is that a stainless steel? thanks to Mike at Collector Knives for making this Blade Forum Knife happen!
Thank you very much for showing this. At the point I feel it's necessary I may try it myself, or I might find someone more mechanically inclined to send it to, but it's reassuring to know that it can be done.So, I sharpened mine and adjusted the edge angle to around 18dps.
Didn't remove a lot of material but I could almost catch a little skin under the tip beforehand so afterwards it was a bit more pronounced.
Just enough to catch skin with no pressure.
Not a big deal but seeing as we're already discussing the mechanics of dropping the blade a little lower in the frame...I went ahead and did it.
Here's where it sits after sharpening to 18dps.
Not all that bad, just catches.
Disassembled.
There are 2 screws on each side of the frame holding it together.
I left the 2 on the other side.
Just lift the side right off, a little sticky but no trouble.
BTW, the pivot screw has some thread lock on it so you'll need 2 torx drivers.
Here's some good news.
The "kick" does contact the backspring when the stop pin is removed and prevents the blade from any contact with the spring so even if there were too much material removed from the stop pin notch the knife wouldn't be ruined.
Here's a shot of the blade tip in the closed position with the stop pin removed.
I used a Dremel with a diamond burr bit and removed just a little seeing as I only wanted to drop the blade a touch.
Used a polishing wheel after to smooth things out.
My micrometer just wouldn't really read that small amount really accurately so I can't give exact numbers.
Anyway, here's the end result after reassembly.
Here's the stop pin notch I ground.
And as I mentioned in another post, it's a little convoluted getting it apart and reassembling.
Had to clamp it down to a bench after I removed one side and with the blade in the half-stop position I inserted a small torx screwdriver into the stop pin hole and gently moved the back spring to release tension.
Did the same to reassemble.
Be careful!
I spent some years as a machinist and have a level of skill with these sort of things so unless you're comfortable just leave it alone.
Not sure a sealant is necessary Dan but a knife manufacturer once revealed in a video their formula for sealing natural materials. Shellac and Boiled Linseed Oil mixed 50/50. I've used it on wood and stag with good result so it should be fine. If you use it let us know how it works for you.
knifeswapper
thanks for the reply. And thank you for making this happen for all of us, it means alot to me and i am sure everyone else too.
knifeswapper
And SPAM, don't forget the SPAM.
Or who has a vacuum cleaner?
One side of the frame just lifts right off and the stop pin can be removed simply.
