bk14 vs bk 24

C

cdnrogue

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Oct 30, 2012
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This will sound like a noobie question, but what is the difference between the BK 14 vs the bk24. Is it the material?
 
The 14 is 1095cv the 24 is D2, other than steel the only difference is the 24 is stonewashed with no coating.
 
the biggest difference is the fact that I have a BK14 and I REALLY want a BK24...
 
I was going to ask, cause Unc Weirdbeard had a stack in the shop, how much for them... I forgot though... I was too enamored with getting my FFG16 and kitchen knives.
 
I have one of each, the 24 is a nice dull silver in color instead of the black coated 14. I have not got my 24 D2 model to take as keen of an edge as what the 14 came with from the factory but my 24 was not a distributed model. However, so far the 24 has retained the sharpest edge I could put on it with my somewhat limited skills at traditional sharpening on a fine diamond stone. I have not used it extensively yet but I am planning on a non-scientific head to head comparison. My initial feelings are that it will hold a better working edge than the 14. It will also need slightly more care than a coated 14 as the D2 is not protected by the layer of goo that most high carbon blades enjoy. It will be a very good blade for someone that expects functional blade sharpness when needed and cares for their tools. I am sure that the D2 can be made shaving sharp, but I don't need mine to. I just want a long lasting working edge in a functional knife, both models meet that need, but the D2 model 24 should stay sharper longer. I would like to see the unplanned 34 model made of S30v and polished....that would be sweeeet
 
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A BK 34 sounds like a hypothetical bk11 made out of s30v, so yes same design and a better idea than d2 IMO.
 
yea I just invented BK34 as the BK14 went to the BK24 with the D2, so chronilogicaly BK34 with S30V. It would be cool and very rust resistant etc.
 
So let me see if I understand then. Depending on...
1. Your a person who uses this knife daily, and does alot of wood work, then a BK 24 is a better choice because it will hold an edge longer between sharpenings and allow you to work longer. The rust issue is not important because you use it everyday and are able to maintain the finish daily.
2. Your a person who uses a knife only when they go camping and only see the knife once every week or two, then the BK14 (oops I originally said bk 11) would be a better choice because of the coating and you would have no issues of rust discolouration to deal with every few weeks. The edge issue does not come into play because you don't do alot of wood working so the edge will hold for awhile anyways.

Does that sum it up in a "general usage" point of view?
 
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Well the basic premise seems correct however I think you had a typo, you said the 11. The 11 would be a better choice when camping cause it has the bottle opener. Unless you don't drink beer in a bottle that much then the 14 might be the better choice as the handle is SLIGHTLY more comfortable.
 
Both are great, the 24 would likely stay sharp longer but require a little more attention in terms of keeping it clean and oiled. I hunt a lot, which involves using the knife to gut and skin game. On big game it is nice to be able to process the animal without needing to touch up the blade (bloody mess and all). Certain aspects of field dressing involve cutting tendons, ligaments, and bone (I usually use shears for rib cage). So if the knife holds an edge slightly longer as D2 should, it is beneficial for that application. After field dressing the knife would get wiped off, and tossed into my pack. Then dealing with getting the crittter out of the woods and cooled quickly to avoid spoilage. By that time I'm tired and the knife doesn't get removed and properly cleaned/oiled might sit in the hunting bag for a week, and would likely develop rust. I am not a fan of coated blades for game processing because I would rather my steaks be sans coating. They are both great blades. I also agree that the 11 would be great, I just like the longer handle of the 14 and 24. The bottle opener is great, but when camping I prefer cans, less clanking and garbage to haul back.
 
Its not like the 1095 in the 11 / 14 is going to start rusting as soon as you look away. with the coating the edge is exposed and that is the worst place for rust. Just wipe it down when you are finished with a little oil on a rag. The benefits of the D2 should be a plus no matter what you are using it on. I fact in my little test my 11 out preformed my 24 but don't read much into that D2 has more wear resistance
The handle on my 11 just as comfortable as my 24. Then again both have wood scales. So the way I see it the 24 will be out in about 6 - 9 months , get the 14 now and the 24 then.
 
Moose said they would be out "Probably March of next year, or maybe January sometime." so my mistake. Looks like 2-4 months, 6 on the outside. Sorry.
 
i heard the 24 would be "out" by Shot Show - January 2013. announced and shown for sure. possibly for sale.

after that, it's a matter of getting them to places that sell them...

they'll cost more. probably more than some people like, but hey, you guys cry for D2, you will pay for D2

:D
 
Any speculation how much the 24 will cost compared san-mai 11's that were out a while ago? The same, less, more?
 
Nsvens89 said:
Any speculation how much the 24 will cost compared san-mai 11's that were out a while ago? The same, less, more?
Click to expand...

there was a rough price quoted, i think $80-85 street price? that's my guess. it could be more. might be less.

it's going to make a head scratcher though... would 2-3 BK14s in the pocket, sharp, and ready to go offer more value? will the effort to put a good/better/best profile and edge on the D2 and keep it be worth it? MMM.

me? i'm already likely the D2 in terms of just being stainless. i've been cutting acidic fruit, and other stuff, and it's not really even getting a patina. reminds me a lot of a Sebenza blade... love those. mine has never discolored after years of use and carry. hell, i should whip that out and use it some more, but i keep thinking i'd be devastated if i lost it - it's the first truly expensive blade i've bought. MMM.

then again, i found one of Ethan's 14s laying in the dirt in his wood pile, could have been there a few weeks or months. hard to say. there was a little discoloration on the edge, but it was gone in about 15 seconds on a belt. nice.

so. depending on the user... yes, the price will be worth it.
 
D2 is considered stainless but mileage may vary. It is just barely in the stainless realm. I EDC a Kershaw 14C28N that gets rust spots pretty quick and that should be more rust resistant. I had no idea they would be at the $80 price point, that would make it a tough decision for me as 1095 seems to hold up pretty well when the HT is done by K-Bar, Ontario etc, and at that price there would be S30V options available. The size and style of the 14/24 are about perfect for my needs though, and it is nice and light. I put factory made scales on both of mine, but wondering about moisture and crap getting in there. Anyone ever run thin bead of silicone around the scales and bolts to keep from having to remove the scales to clean the tang?
 
Thanks, I thought the BK24 made of D2 was all ready out and people could buy it. What is special about this one coming in 2-4 months then?
 
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