BK2 won't throw sparks

M

mj52

Joined
Feb 25, 2015
Messages
2
Hi,

BK2 won't throw sparks off ferro rods.

First time ever using a ferro rod (get that out of the way).

Bought 2 ferro rods yesterday, a Light My Fire and a Coghlan. Started learning today.

The Light My Fire.

Worked by itself using the supplied striker.
Worked using my Benchmade Adamas. Easiest with blade folded.
Would not strike a spark using the BK2.

The Coghlan.

Would not work using the supplied striker.
Worked using the Light my Fire striker.
Worked using my Benchmade Adamas.
Would not work using the BK2.

For tinder I used plain cotton balls, vaseline cotton balls and fine steel wool.
The LMF lit all three. The LMF and Adamas lit all three. The BK2 lit nothing.

Any suggestions/ideas?

Thanks, mj52
 
What part of the knife are you using? If you have the knife still coated it won't strike unless you are using the actual edge of the blade. Which some will say you shouldn't, others say it's fine. Personally I dunno, it doesn't make me no never mind.
 
The sparks are actually burning bits of iron from the the steel of the knife.

The part of the knife needs a sharp shoulder. Feel the edge of the striker that works for the type of edge needed on the knife.
 
TravisH said:
The sparks are actually burning bits of iron from the the steel of the knife.
Click to expand...

That's only when using a flint. The Sparks from a fero rod are actually ferocerium.

You need to file the spine of your knife so that you have a very sharp 90 degree edge. It wouldn't hurt to just strip off the coating all together. Until then, use the edge of the blade right at the choil. It will throw a shower of sparks when done properly.
 
TravisH said:
The sparks are actually burning bits of iron from the the steel of the knife.

The part of the knife needs a sharp shoulder. Feel the edge of the striker that works for the type of edge needed on the knife.
Click to expand...

The sparks are from the ferro rod. You can use anything sharp to generate sparks, including the sharp edge of a rock. Strip the coating from a portion of the spine, give it a good ninety degree edge with a file and you're good to go. :thumbup:

When using flint (chert, quartz, etc.) to strike a spark on a knife, it's bits of metal sparking.


edit: Was typing while you posted CM, you are on the money.
 
Hi folks,

I figured it out.

400 grit sandpaper on a flat surface and sanded the coating off the back of the blade (thickest part) and Lordy, Lordy look at em fly. That also squared up that edge a bit too.

The Adamas with the blade folded allowed me a lot of leverage, the BK2 even more so. I would've been heart broken so I'm glad it was operator error or I should say operator inexperience.

Thanks, mj52
 
Welcome to the forums mj.

Moose
 
Welcome mj,

Hopefully we have sparked your interests.:rolleyes:
 
TravisH said:
The sparks are actually burning bits of iron from the the steel of the knife.

The part of the knife needs a sharp shoulder. Feel the edge of the striker that works for the type of edge needed on the knife.
Click to expand...

Don't feel bad. A Boy Scout book illustrates a ferro rod and scrapper and then gives (incorrect) instructions on using natural "flint" and steel.
 
Yes, the trick is to have a good square edge scraping down the rod. Grab an axe file or whatever, run it down the spine and down the side of the blade. You will shoot wads of sparks off the cheapest fero rods. I also found along the way that the back of every Leatherman saw blade is sharply squared enough to rip sparks right from the factory.
 
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