Blackening mild steel guards

Joined
Jul 10, 2002
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While i was at the Trackrock hammerin last weekend i was talking to someone about a way to blacken mild steel guards i had seen on another forum. Below is the way i was talking about. Hope it helps. :D


Starting with clean steel (degrease and clean with alcohol) and handle with clean hands or vinyl gloves to keep oil from contaminating the surface. Make a simple solution of hydrogen peroxide (the stuff they sell at the drug store for 99 cents), table salt, and vinegar. Put about 4 ounces of peroxide in a glass jar and microwave it until it is hot but not boiling. Add salt and stir and then reheat. Continue heating and adding salt until the solution is saturated....you can tell because the salt stops dissolving and starts to accumulate at the bottom of the glass jar. When saturated add about an ounce of vinegar (what kind does not matter) and pour the solution into a spray bottle. I use empty and very clean butter spray bottles.

Take the steel fitting (clean, remember?) and run it under hot tap water till it's hot. Remove it, and then spray it liberally with the hot solution. It will steam, fizz, foam and drip so don't do this over the living room carpet or your wife's clean bedspread. You will see red rust appear immediately and as the foam dies down spray it again and again. After a few spray cycles rinse it under hot tap water, brush it with a soft toothbrush (not *your* toothbrush...use someone else's) and then run it under hot tap water again. And then repeat the spray and foam routine until it is literally covered with a thick coating of red rust. Maybe about 10 cycles and maybe it takes about 12 to 15 minutes.

Then place the fitting into a pan, fill it with water, and set it on the stove. Heat until the water boils and then boil it about 10 or 15 minutes (I use distilled water) or until the fitting is black. Pull it out of the water (use your fingers! If you don't get burned it ruins the whole thing) and while it's still warm rub it with mineral oil or Renaissance wax. The wax will make it shiny...the oil will evaporate and leave a cool, dull black antique look.

It's done. Rub it with a soft cloth to remove any loose rust. This procedure will rust without pitting and the surface will be slightly matte looking. And I was just kidding about the burnt finger part. Use a stick or someone else's finger.


Brian VanSpeybroeck
Swordforum.com
http://forums.swordforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34771&highlight=Blackening+tsuba
 
Yes it is.:thumbup: I put a heatgun on the metal then apply. Then wash off with baking soda and water.;)
 
Speaking of getting things black I noticed on a lot of Scandi blades they get a nice black textured finish on the rest of the blade that isn't ground. I have heatreated and forged my own blades and never gotten such a nice finish how is that done??
Abe
 
Would you need to neutralize this with ammonia or baking soda, or does the boiling get rid of the acids enough to stop the oxidation process?
 
IIRC household hydrogen peroxide is in about a 2% solution. (if it was anywhere near pure it would be extremely dangerous, it's a VERY powerful oxidizer and must be placarded as such when shipped). So I don't think the water even needs to be hot to stop the reaction. Whether this has any effect on the black finish, I have no idea.

I haven't seen a hyrdrogen-peroxide finish in person, but I get very good, deep black, non-destructive results a whole lot easier with plain vinegar or lemon juice on low-alloy, high-carbon steel. I'm curious how much steel is eaten away with this process, and how smooth a surface it leaves? "Thick layer of red rust" sounds a bit scary to me....

On another note, do any of you use Brass-Black to darken brass guards etc?
 
The method Terry is using is just like the rust blue method we use on firearms and will work very well but a word of caution is needed. As Terry said use distilled water to do the boiling. In some parts of the country there is enough mineral in the water to start some sort of electrolitic action with the help of the acid to cause very deep pitting in the part you are boiling.
One day I was out of distilled water and used pump water to do a patch box on an English style rifle and ended up having to refile the patch box not just sanding to remove some deep pits.:mad:
 
Sounds like there's lots easier ways to accomplish the same result with far less risk and hassle, please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
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