Blade shapes/styles & their intended uses?

[patrickb]

I'm curious about all the different blade styles and shapes. My preferences are most often aesthetic rather than function based. For instance, the Wharncliffe blade just doesn't do it for me. I prefer a more rounded blade with more belly, like a drop point. Again this is simply aesthetic.

So I got to thinking...can anyone explain the benefits and/or the intended uses of the different blades?

For instance, what does the Wharncliffe excel at? Why are 'hunting' knives shaped as they are? What does the drop point do well compared to other shapes? What was it designed to do originally? Do certain blades excel at cutting certain materials?

I lean towards gent's folders because I wear a suit to work. Opening boxes, mail and the odd piece of rope are all my EDC's see during the workweek. What type/shape of blade will do well in this environment?

Any thoughts?

-patrick

 

[Robert Hankins]

Personally I like a Wharncliffe blade for Utility chores.
Recurves on fighters
There are many answers to that question

 

[Easyrider]

Can anyone explain to me the advantage of the "S" shaped blade on the Spyderco Cricket and Meercat?

 

[WadeF]

Originally posted by Easyrider
Can anyone explain to me the advantage of the "S" shaped blade on the Spyderco Cricket and Meercat?

I believe it is to give you a longer cutting edge on a short blade. Meaning if you could pull the S shaped edge straight it would be longer than the existing blade.

 

[Jeff Clark]

An optimal hunting knife parts sticky fibrous tissues where you want and not where you don't want. A lot of what you are doing is separating meat from guts and bones. A dropped point or semi skinner lets you follow bones and membranes without the point catching on underlying entrails and spilling glop into your work. You generally don't want extra sharp corners that tend to catch, penetrate, and follow their own path through the tissues.

A Warncliff, sheepsfoot, or hawkbill blade is sort of the opposite. It has a sharp corner that allows you to press through a surface at an arbitrary point and then drag the blade on a line of your choosing. These do not track the materials. They function more like a razor utility knife. The flat-edged blades work well on paper or cardboard that may not be well supported. You use an angled draw cut that uses some slicing action. A hawkbill blade sort of collects material in the crook of the edge and may tear paper or poorly supported soft material. It works best on something that is stiff enough or under enough tension to keep the material from bunching. The classic example is a hook-bladed carpet knife. The point penetrates the carpet and the right angle handle gives leverage to steer the cut. It works because the carpet is stiff enough when you work from the middle. It is tougher to start the cut at the edge.