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Seconding this. It's a matter of heat treatment, and I don't think there's any production company that does AUS8 better than Cold Steel. It's miles ahead of the 8Cr13MoV on my Tenacious.
Blade suggestions please
- Thread starter Coondog27
- Start date
Seconding this. It's a matter of heat treatment, and I don't think there's any production company that does AUS8 better than Cold Steel. It's miles ahead of the 8Cr13MoV on my Tenacious.
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I just bought a Manix 2 that seems to be really strong. My first knives I bought when I just started getting really interested in knives were some benchmade autos, the last one being the Auto Rift(partially serrated), and they all served me well in my farm work. If you can't get auto you might want to think about Spyderco. I have never owned one, but I saw some benchmade bone collector manual open with spyderco holes and axis locks, made with D2 steel. D2 is great all around stuff.
The Manix 2 was my first Spyderco, and it is very well built! Although, the unlocking of the knife might be tricky with gloves. I usually use framelocks now, which is more forgiving gloves or not. But that company has a lot of types of locking systems! And a ton of great steels to choose from. The Manix 2 with S110v for under $100, great stuff!!
I have lived on a farm since I was born. It is really useful to have a one hand open and close!! Really useful!! That is why I used to love autos, not I moved towards flippers.
The Manix 2 was my first Spyderco, and it is very well built! Although, the unlocking of the knife might be tricky with gloves. I usually use framelocks now, which is more forgiving gloves or not. But that company has a lot of types of locking systems! And a ton of great steels to choose from. The Manix 2 with S110v for under $100, great stuff!!
I have lived on a farm since I was born. It is really useful to have a one hand open and close!! Really useful!! That is why I used to love autos, not I moved towards flippers.
Yes, I was looking into fixed blades, but I have too much stuff on my belt. I carry a s&w sheild, spare mag, leatherman, and a flashlight. I would prefer stainless materials because I often am in the rain or cutting wet bales. Or snow covered for that matter.
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How about the ubiquitous Ontario RAT 1? 3.6" blade, liner lock, AUS 8 steel, full flat grind, 4-position clip, thumb studs. With your budget you should be able to get two of those.
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Yeah I agree with kniferbro in that if 80 bucks is not set in stone go with the paramilitary 2 you can buy new on Amazon for 109 or sometimes cheaper in the exchange.. Though it is more expensive it will pay off in the long run! Great ergonomics extremely strong and durable.. We'll work the little extra cash
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Yeah I second rat 1 also a great option if your just wanting a cheaper knife and can't spend the extra cash on a pm2.. Good thing about that steel after hard use you can have it back to razor sharp in less than 5 min
Guys, Not to pee on your parade but as a farmer I'll bet he wants a knife that stays sharp for a LONG time, because ease of sharpening is less useful than not having to spend limited time sharpening.
I would avoid anything in AUS 8/8cr... etc... Minimum S30V steel, Manix lightweight in S110V is probably the best value for a functional working knife that will stay sharp a long time. Barring that, go with a Kershaw blur in S30V. and maybe have the edge reground to "thin" this will help it stay sharp longer. S30V has a significantly longer edge holding than the other stock steels that Kershaw blur comes in.
Personally I'd spend double on a knife that will last through anything and hold an edge 4-5 times as long, but I haven't lost a knife in nearly 10 years. Spyderco Farid K2 has a hell of a slicing blade in a great edge holding steel easily among the best production knife performance at any price.
Or consider a smallish fixed blade in 3V from a custom maker like a Koster Bushcraft, for about double your budget. It will work and last if you don't lose it. And edge holding will also beat the S30V, if not the 10V. But it take far more abuse.
I would avoid anything in AUS 8/8cr... etc... Minimum S30V steel, Manix lightweight in S110V is probably the best value for a functional working knife that will stay sharp a long time. Barring that, go with a Kershaw blur in S30V. and maybe have the edge reground to "thin" this will help it stay sharp longer. S30V has a significantly longer edge holding than the other stock steels that Kershaw blur comes in.
Personally I'd spend double on a knife that will last through anything and hold an edge 4-5 times as long, but I haven't lost a knife in nearly 10 years. Spyderco Farid K2 has a hell of a slicing blade in a great edge holding steel easily among the best production knife performance at any price.
Or consider a smallish fixed blade in 3V from a custom maker like a Koster Bushcraft, for about double your budget. It will work and last if you don't lose it. And edge holding will also beat the S30V, if not the 10V. But it take far more abuse.
Excellent choices, Coondog. You can't go wrong with any of the Spyderco line.