on_the_edge
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
- Messages
- 11,634
Thanks! :thumbup:
Nice wicked edge in the background there . Will have to post how well the m4 handles the 15deg bevel. I'm tempted to go lower than my usual 19deg on m4, but it works so well it's hard to switch. Was thinking I wouldn't go lower than 17deg for sure though, so would be curious to know how well 15deg holds up. M4 is probably my favorite steel (probably meaning definitely) because it's just so damn tough, wear resistant, and sharp as hell. So if it doesn't take 15deg well, then nothing will.Ok got bored so I pulled out some navy blue Rit and now have a like black/grey see through I'll post more pics tomorrow in the sun but came out sick, time to put an aggressive 15dps edge on it and the patina is locked in perfect, loving this knife and have a spare in the safe incase this one disappears and also broke down and have a KW cf m4 coming a swell
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It's titanium, I got it on amazon from a guy that makes them custom per order, he goes by blade4sell on Amazon. Just type in pm2 backspacer and several options pop up. I got the blue.
Sincerely,
Ego sum Chrysaora
Nice wicked edge in the background there . Will have to post how well the m4 handles the 15deg bevel. I'm tempted to go lower than my usual 19deg on m4, but it works so well it's hard to switch. Was thinking I wouldn't go lower than 17deg for sure though, so would be curious to know how well 15deg holds up. M4 is probably my favorite steel (probably meaning definitely) because it's just so damn tough, wear resistant, and sharp as hell. So if it doesn't take 15deg well, then nothing will.
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Now you've got me thinking.
I usually / always reprofile every knife to 18 DPS with a Wicked Edge and then use the 40* side of the Sharpmaker for a microbevel and easy touchups.
With this knife I may try 14 or even 13 DPS and use the 30* side of the Sharpmaker.
So basically on both those knives you're pretty much running a full flat grind with small microbevel? Because the primary grinds are generally at the angles you specified on those two knives, and even by looking at them they look full flat with a small bevel at the end. I really like full flat grinds. I've considered running a few but haven't. If I could get a true convex I'd run one, but they're really difficult to get, plus I don't think they benefit on such a small bevel. I've seen studies that show a true convex causes cutting material to pull away from the edge rather than slide up it; which means only the very cutting edge is in contact with the material rather than the entire sides of the blade. This is what makes katana so devastating.More than 50% of my Spyderco's are convexed at far less than 13 dps with a 15 dps micro bevel, and they hold up well for light EDC.
I estimate this Stretch to be 8-10dps, with a 15dps micro. It is one of my favorite slicers. I avoid hard contacts, but I haven't seen it chip yet in more than a year with typical light use.
M4 can also play on this level. This is the M4 Military, also convexed, but not quite as thin as the Stretch, also have a 15dps micro. No durability issues yet in the last 2 years, but yes I do not cut through food cans and car bonnets. Food, cardboard, packaging, no problem.
For some reason I do not see anyone running convexes, and I'm not sure why? I think it is brilliant. It eliminates the wide shoulders of the bevel, and lets the blade slide through the material you are cutting with noticeably less force. At 40 deg incl angles I really feel people are wasting steel performance, unless off course they need that kind of uber durability. I think many forumites over estimate the durability they need, and are too conservative with angles. Thin edges have really changed my perspective on "effortless" cutting! Try it, it is awesome!
So basically on both those knives you're pretty much running a full flat grind with small microbevel? Because the primary grinds are generally at the angles you specified on those two knives, and even by looking at them they look full flat with a small bevel at the end.
Got some better light! Love how it came out, Rit navy blue for 18 mins and decided to keep at factory edge for now but cleaned up on my wicked edge
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I really like the type of edge you're using. The only reason I don't do that to mine is lack of skill/confidence. The best cutting knives I've used were from ABS guys, Terry Primos comes to mind. A full flat with the edge gently convened to a near zero. An absolute joy to use and keep sharp!
That looks a lot better in the light skivic. Lol is that a scion you're driving? It's def a Toyota; I drive an '06 Scion .
Really? All the knobs are the same, especially the door buttons for window control and lockNope sorry 2008 Civic SI Sedan in White lol my commuter car
Are you Sunshine Orange happy?Ok.
So not being able to leave well enough alone.
I've gone from orange-ish
To orange orange
There was nothing wrong with the tangerine orange. It just wasn't exactly what I was looking for. (I used one dry box of Golden Yellow Rit dye)
So I got to thinking. Why can't I make orange scales more orange?
So I bought two boxes of Sunshine Orange and re-cooked my scales. Now I'm happy.
ok.
So not being able to leave well enough alone.
I've gone from orange-ish
to orange orange
there was nothing wrong with the tangerine orange. It just wasn't exactly what i was looking for. (i used one dry box of golden yellow rit dye)
so i got to thinking. Why can't i make orange scales more orange?
So i bought two boxes of sunshine orange and re-cooked my scales. Now i'm happy.
Ok.
So not being able to leave well enough alone.
I've gone from orange-ish
To orange orange
There was nothing wrong with the tangerine orange. It just wasn't exactly what I was looking for. (I used one dry box of Golden Yellow Rit dye)
So I got to thinking. Why can't I make orange scales more orange?
So I bought two boxes of Sunshine Orange and re-cooked my scales. Now I'm happy.