Blower Location Propane Forge

DanF

DanF

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Apr 17, 2017
Messages
1,409
I had not used this forge since building it as everything I forged ( up to 13” knives), would fit in my Atlas Mini. Now, I need to put the built one to regular use. Is there any way to reconfigure the pipes to cut down on that weight and bulk asis, and would this forge be considerably safer, or just a little safer with the blower above everything Vs the current location?
Thanks
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I would NEVER put a blower above a forge. You will create a draft when it shots off. This will draw the hot forge chamber air up through your piping and through your blower. With the blower lower then the forge you get a cool air draft through the blower when shut off keeping it cool. I like your set up
 
I agree with JT. The blower should be lower than the port. The old worry about propane drifting down the manifold and exploding at the blower motor is pretty silly. It can be solved easily by a solenoid valve if it really worries you.
 
Thanks JT and Stacy, I could not remember reading about that when I was building this but as I was looking around old threads to refresh my memory on this build I came across a couple of threads mentioning the blower should be high so I thought it best to ask before proceeding.
 
6D61C6DD-D4C3-4540-AD7B-088933D9DCB0.jpeg @kdnolan, label doesn’t tell much beyond electrical draws and such, nothing on the cfm output. To err on the conservative side I’ll just say, 120-150 cfm, iirc.

edit
Correction on that, after enlarging the label on my phone, it looks like the flow rate listing is 120 (if I’m reading that right).
 
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I have seen quite a few on amazon in the 200 ish CFM, so they should be plenty big enough. thanks Dan.
 
Is in the cart below the forge really a good place for the propane tank? I guess since it's protected by the metal the forge sets on it might be ok, just looks funny to me.
 
The cart simply keeps everything contained for ease of movement from inside to out.
 
OK, that makes sense, then you move the tank to the side during use? Good thinking - I didn't think of that.
 
Almost a necessity to operate the on/off valves quickly in an emergency on the 20 lb bottle and a definite necessity to get to the 30 I have under there now (the 30 is for the bigger forge, not tha I really need it but I hate running out during a session when fill ups are an hour away.
Thanks for asking that @Ken H, keeps someone from assuming when just looking at the pic.
 
I know, the 178 CFM Dayton blower is the standard, and has been for decades. However, you can actually go with a much smaller CFM. I've built over fifty Graham Blown Burners, with the 30 CFM and electric control. I really like the dial instead of a gate valve. I do need to look into longer, flexible supply lines, per a previous conversation with Stacy.

100k BTU only requires 15.38 CFM air flow. A 30 CFM blower will provide this with and handle the back pressure adequately. Actually, up to about 140k BTU out of the blowers that I use.
Graham-Forge-9-1200-x-960.jpg
 
Atlas Knife Company said:
I know, the 178 CFM Dayton blower is the standard, and has been for decades. However, you can actually go with a much smaller CFM. I've built over fifty Graham Blown Burners, with the 30 CFM and electric control. I really like the dial instead of a gate valve. I do need to look into longer, flexible supply lines, per a previous conversation with Stacy.

100k BTU only requires 15.38 CFM air flow. A 30 CFM blower will provide this with and handle the back pressure adequately. Actually, up to about 140k BTU out of the blowers that I use.
Graham-Forge-9-1200-x-960.jpg
Click to expand...

I was wondering if it would be possible to use the atlas 100 K burner with my forge body to try to lose some of that weight from all the heavy pipe?
 
Yeah, I was thinking more about this at 3:00 a.m., , I think it’s time to do the covered patio hot work area attached to the shop. Making everything for forging stationary would alleviate any necessity for “light and mobile”. Just have to figure out how to keep the ne’er-do-wells out of it at night.
 
Security lights and a "disconnect" type alarm would work. A disconnect alarm is one that if unplugged sounds the alarm. Think of the wires attached to the cameras and valuable things in a store. You can put one together for probably $50 or less.

I had my forge outside for nearly 20 years and never had anything walk away at night
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith , considering your locale that is amazing!

About 5 years ago some lowlifes were working our neighborhood, three hundred yds down the road from me they drained the little churches heating oil tank, and took the tires/wheels off a farmers tractor across the road from the church. I spent close to twenty years working in/with LEO, and can’t remember a stranger grouping of items taken.
 
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