Boiled linseed oil application?

Shotgun

Shotgun

Joined
Feb 3, 2006
Messages
8,250
How do you apply it to your handles? I've been just wiping it on and then wipe off the excess. I actually read the directions yesterday and it says to cut it with 2 parts mineral spirits and 1 part boiled linseed. It's supposed to make it penetrate better. Any of you guys do that? Are there any pros/cons to doing it that way vs just wiping it on straight from the can?
 
I wipe it on heavy, give it a couple minutes, then wipe it off, leaving a thin layer to dry.
 
I've been wiping mine on straight from the can. I've found that it's easy to over do it and end up with almost a tacky finish (maybe because I'm not adding mineral spirits). I pour a small amount into a cup and then dip my fingers in the cup and rub it into the handle. The excess is then wiped off with a rag. I do this about twice, any more and it starts to get tacky.
 
I use an old piece of T shirt and stuff straight from the can and wipe it in well. Then do something with the rag so I don't burn my garage. I also use it on my old garden tool handles that are dry and it soaks right in to them
 
For gunstocks I dilute the boiled linseed oil 10% with gum turpentine and add a little Japan driers (available at art supplies) which speeds up the curing process. This "gunstock oil" works fine on most any woods. Another formula I use is "deck oil" which is 50/50 boiled linseed oil & pine tar (Stockholm) that I then diluted 10% with gum turpentine. This mix will darken the wood slightly and also give it a smokey smell from the tar. The tar helps preserve the wood.
 
Raw linseed oil = flax seed oil. Available at any health food store and probably most supermarkets. Kind of spendy but a little goes a long way.
 
VintageAxe said:
Raw linseed oil = flax seed oil. Available at any health food store and probably most supermarkets. Kind of spendy but a little goes a long way.
Click to expand...
What I use, too. No added chemicals, so I'll apply it by hand. No problems with oily rag disposal. If there's excess left on my hands, I'll wipe them with a square or two of toilet paper, pitch it in the toilet and wash my hands.
 
my back ground is in making furniture, in my experience raw linseed oil takes for ever to cure. "boiled" linseed is cut with driers that speeds up the process. I would cut linseed for a base coat to fill pours because it floes better. I rub it in, let it sit wipe off excess give it 24 hours + to cure.


hope this helps
 
I used boiled with a touch of turps for the first two coats on the gunstock club. I used 320 emery for the first two coats rubbing the oil in with the paper, then 320, 400, 600 and finally 1500 grit emery. Sanding with the oil realy fills the grain and gives the wood a very nice patina. I wipe each coat off after sanding it in. I gave this piece a few coats of high end furniture wax to finish it off.

Best regards

Robin

6193020168_2c8dfd8571.jpg
[/url][/IMG]
 
I used boiled from the can, rub it in and let it set. Give it a couple of days to cure nad steel wool it.

I also use it on the cut ends of treated deck boards and tops of posts to help slow drying and prevent cracking. I use disposable chip brushes.

Bill
 
The best linseed oil can be bought IMO at Artists Supplies Stores. there is a variety: Cold Press, Refined, Stand oil (very thick and syrupy) with driers and in a variety of sizes, and prices. It tend to be more expensive than in the hardware store but of superior quality.
Paco
 
SkogKniv said:
Got no raw. No one sells it around here.
Click to expand...

I read this and I imagine some old timer leaning up against a fence post with a big chew in, almost in a scolding fashion. "Got no raw in these here parts. Whaddya think this is, the big city? (spit) "

LOLOLOLOLOL
 
Operator1975 said:
I read this and I imagine some old timer leaning up against a fence post with a big chew in, almost in a scolding fashion. "Got no raw in these here parts. Whaddya think this is, the big city? (spit) "

LOLOLOLOLOL
Click to expand...

I should have used Round* here instead of around* hahaha
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top