Brad Southard Question

R

redman2006

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Nov 6, 2012
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So, as you know from my other posts, I am new to spyderco. I took apart the Brad Southard just enough to remove the aftermarket CF scale and put the original G10 back on. The CF was too slippery. I was just going to scratch it up anyway, and that way it is off if/when I can trade it off.

Now, the questions. First, the scale has two divots for what appear to be alignment pins. there was only one in the box with the knife. I put it in the rear hole and put everything back together. It all seems to function fine, but is the other needed? Do they serve any other purpose than alignment?

Second, as I was putting it back together, the blade shifted to the g10 side, then centered, then back to g10 then centered, then..... You get the idea. What is this due to? How does it happen, and somehow, I lucked out when it was all tight, it was dead center again, but it is just a tick tighter than before I changed the scales. Can I back off a rotation where it is centered again and leave it, or does it need to be 100% tight? Use a little thread locker if I leave it one rotation out? Should I just flip it and lube it and wait for it to resettle?

Sorry for the remedial questions, but I have not taken on apart and put it bac together before.
Thanks
 
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You lost me at "Bradford". I've never heard of a Spyderco Bradford, although I have heard of Bradford, PA. Are you talking about one of the Gayle Bradley collaborations? If so, which one?
 
i also have after market scales on my BS's,the a alignment pins are really not needed,i don't reinstall them on my domino's ether and never had any problem,the stock G10 has them and i think it so they can put theses together faster at the factory!so the scales line up with the knife with out overwork!you should tighten every other screw and check for center then the rest,titanium hasn't much flex to it,you should be fine.
 
I've had my Southard apart twice. I can't help with the pins, memory is too foggy.

I do remember struggling with the pivot bushing to get it aligned just right. It was kind of a pain. It may be your problem.

The bushing is D-shaped and will only go in corectly in one orientation. The tolerances are really tight; every time I had it lined up, I'd make a false move and the lock bar tension would push it out a bit! The first time I reassembled it without the bushing fully aligned and seated. It didn't work well--LOL!

Once I had the bushing correct it was simple. I tightened the pivot most of the way down, then tightened the the stand-offs snug (not crazy). Last, I went back and adjusted the pivot just until the blade was centered. I used a tiny bit of LocTite 242 on each screw; I would have used 222 if I'd had it.

Anyhow, if it's NQR, go back and check the pivot bushing.

You probably know I'm a huge fan of the Southard from your other threads. I'm carrying it today, matter o' fact.

IMG_1913.JPG
 
Did you notice as you tightened the pivot screw that the blade moved very evenly over to the g10 side then back to center then back to g10? This is a very controlled, even movement that cycles exactly every 360 degrees as though there was some adjustment built into the pivot.

I did discover, the hard way, that flicking it open with a thumb is a bad plan. It bites back. The flipper is best for a quick flick out. Or I am just clumsy.
 
redman2006 said:
Did you notice as you tightened the pivot screw that the blade moved very evenly over to the g10 side then back to center then back to g10? This is a very controlled, even movement that cycles exactly every 360 degrees as though there was some adjustment built into the pivot.

I did discover, the hard way, that flicking it open with a thumb is a bad plan. It bites back. The flipper is best for a quick flick out. Or I am just clumsy.
Click to expand...

Not once I had the bushing and everything else aligned. It would go center, then pretty much stop, even if I tightened more.

I can thumb hole flick mine. It hits pretty hard when I do--so I don't.

I will pinch it open between my thumb and middle finger, then roll it open with my thumb, from time to time.
 
This particular thread pops up on google for many searches regarding the Southard. For anyone who finds it, number one you need to hold tension off the lockbar while tightening the pivot (basically use your left hand to hold the lockbar unlocked). Tighten the pivot screw ONLY to the point to where there's no blade play. Any further and you will absolutely dish out the factory washers.

Some Southards have washers that are too thin. As a result, when you tighten the pivot to the point of no blade play the bearing pocket surfaces are not parallel. This makes it very difficult - almost impossible - to get a perfectly centered blade with no blade play. I personally suggesting running them a little loose if you're in this situation and don't want to buy the washer/bearing upgrade kit.
 
Since this thread is back up again I’ll chime in on something that’s on my mind. I hope this doesn’t come across as inflammatory or bashing—my love for the Spyderco Southard is a matter of record! I even have a NIB backup stashed away because I NEVER want to be without this knife.

Based on my experience (n=1) the sentiment that any washer dishing is solely due to owner ‘adjustment’ is, IMO, disingenuous.

That being said, my Southard is still running great after a year that’s entailed months of carry & tons of flipping—though my real ‘use’ tends to be light-moderate.
 
BD_01 BD_01

I am right there with you on the love for the Southard. It is just about the perfect knife, I like my Southard better than my Slysz Bowie and maybe even Sebenzas. The ergos, the blade shape, the overall fit and finish, I love it.

Obviously I sell an upgrade kit so I am biased. I have made a point to not say anything negative regarding Spyderco throughout this entire thing. This is a really complicated problem, and it's their first foray into bearing flippers.

I will say that I agree with you, that in my opinion the problem is not solely due to owner adjustments. There are plenty of folks out there who have disassembled their Southard for the very first time and found dished out washers rubbing on the bearings, or indentations on the washers from an overtightened pivot straight from the factory. There are also people, whether due to their usage style or the year their knife was made, who have had zero problems.

I think my biggest frustration by far is Spyderco's choice to not provide easy replacements for these washers. The response I received from customer service is what made me decide to figure out why these problems come up and a way to fix it.
 
really sad!as i understand,blade HQ is listing the brad southard as a discontinued modal!but why it has to be the best 1st flipper spyderco has made to date!i myself loved it so much,that over the years i collected three of these guys and swapped there scales of course,but other then that i still love this flipper,easy to repair if needed,one only needs to learn how by the way..
 
blanex1 blanex1

Looking at the discontinued list and it's pretty clear that they don't want to deal with the current bearing system. You might send them an email asking for another Brad Southard collab in the future
 
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