Photos Brand NEWBIE and ADDICTED

[garry3]

I aquired this whetstone about three weeks ago and though I am just out of my bilateral inguinal surgery and recovering, I had to swap leads on the terminals to this Dunlap motor to produce the correct rotation of the stone.
The previous owner had the stone turning away from the tool, not toward.

I can't wait to get back some mobility and can get back to finding a great handle to hang my PLUMB

That's a sweet set up.
I have heard that leaving some of those natural sandstones in water can ruin them. Not sure if it's true or not but I don't leave mine in a bath just in case.
Maybe it's BS ?

 

[Miller '72]

Thank you garry3 and thanks for the heads up. I hadn't thought about the stone but was going to drain after use just not to rust out the pan any more than it already is and not to seize the drain plug. I was surprised the drain plug was not seized, I did find the pan dry but with a good layer of rust dust and acorns.

I can't wait to try it out... tomorrow I hope to steal a chance, sneak out there when my wife hopefully goes to pick up our boys from her mum's.
She would not be happy if she catches me trying the Whetstone out 3 days after surgery LOL!!
Thanks for looking. Thanks for the advice.

Miller

 

[Steve Tall]

I have heard that leaving some of those natural sandstones in water can ruin them. Not sure if it's true or not but I don't leave mine in a bath just in case.
Maybe it's BS ?

I've read that leaving a natural grindstone sitting partially in water will soften the wet part a little bit (compared to the dry part), and then the grindstone will wear unevenly when it is used.

 

[Miller '72]

I think that makes sense, thanks SteveTall. The stone is porous and likely susceptible especially with any prolonged uneven exposure.
I have not yet taken the moment to start researching care of the stone but this conversation has struck that to be important to me. I also have this separate Norton Grinding Wheel, an independent find from this complete whetstone setup. Wheels are different sizes, haven't been able to compare or measure the two together yet.

It would be funny if the two could be interchanged.
I will be happy when I replace the power cord, perhaps install a power switch if I have one, thinking of an old toggle mounted. Then try the stone on an axe head I will also use also for my first hang attempt.
The axe head a gift from my mother in law. Her youngest son used it for years in the garden as a hand/palm shovel...I didn't know what to say to that...Trowel.

 

[Miller '72]

Not to beat a dead horse...however.

I was at the bench this afternoon and in the light I noticed the eye of my PLUMB.

Remnants of red permabond perhaps?

While searching online, Google brought me to another forum with a small lonely thread "let's see your axe's. A Plumb boy scout head with the stamp and hatch marks like mine...

Red handle, national pattern, boy scout logo.
I wish I knew the weight/dimensions of the boy scout head in the picture I found.

I hope to find an appropriate, longer and straight handle for mine soon.

 

[garry3]

Not to beat a dead horse...however.

I was at the bench this afternoon and in the light I noticed the eye of my PLUMB.

Remnants of red permabond perhaps?

While searching online, Google brought me to another forum with a small lonely thread "let's see your axe's. A Plumb boy scout head with the stamp and hatch marks like mine...

Red handle, national pattern, boy scout logo.
I wish I knew the weight/dimensions of the boy scout head in the picture I found.

I hope to find an appropriate, longer and straight handle for mine soon.

That's good information on the permabond. Thanks for posting that.

Not sure what length handle you are looking for, but I believe a rigging axe handle will get you close to 18" or as short as 15" depending on if you move the shoulder of the haft up or down when you hang it. I select my own from local lumber yards and I believe they are link handles. The shape of the rigging axe handles from House handle are terrible.

 

[300Six]

The axe head a gift from my mother in law. Her youngest son used it for years in the garden as a hand/palm shovel...I didn't know what to say to that...Trowel.

My retirement-aged neighbour across the street uses an axe head for doing gardening work. Not an old beat one either. She said hubby was rather fond of it for that purpose and had brought it all the way to Ottawa from Saskatchewan 20 years ago. What I noticed is the factory blue paint and the prominent Walters stamp, meaning it was made at least 45 years ago. When you're lawn edging on hands and knees it does make a well defined and straight cut.

 

[Miller '72]

Thanks Garry3
You just reminded me of a family owned lumber/garden center about 30 minutes north of me in Massachusetts. I would bet they have a handle selection with more variety and options of length and style compared to the two small hardware stores I have closer to me. I think I would like something in the 18"-22" ballpark for length and straight or straight with a swell toward the end. Be cool if it has a knobbed end/butt. I have been reading up on handle making and have figured when I am ready, have practiced enough maybe using the plenty of beach I have in my yard, I will talk to them about a piece of ash or hickory for me to carve my own out one day.
Thanks Garry

My retirement-aged neighbour across the street uses an axe head for doing gardening work. Not an old beat one either. She said hubby was rather fond of it for that purpose and had brought it all the way to Ottawa from Saskatchewan 20 years ago. What I noticed is the factory blue paint and the prominent Walters stamp, meaning it was made at least 45 years ago. When you're lawn edging on hands and knees it does make a well defined and straight cut.

Wow 300 sounds like your neighbors may be related to my mother in law LOL!! She too has a great yard full of plantings and flower beds, most probably edged out with this little boys ax head that I have been working on cleaning, reshaping the toe and heel, and today started on sharpening due to my reshaping at the heel...twenty minutes or so here, twenty or so minutes there that I can get away with. Eventually as with all my projects, I will squeeze the time from somewhere LOL!

I can't wait to hang this one, it will be my first, I just want to do all I can before I marry it to a handle. Just seems a little easier to work on less the handle.

Thanks 300

 

[Miller '72]

I started to DeLaquer and practice with a rasp on a 14" Link handle i purchased.
Even though it looks rough and I may not get the shape I am going for (knob end-ish like my Rogers handle) on this attempt, I may even make this handle useless but I gotta start somewhere.
It already looks and feels 110% better.
What an eye opener Experience.

The back edges (both sides) of a dead hacksaw blade make for a mean "de-lacquerer".

Stickers too if you clear it off after each swipe.

I took your suggestion and really like the ease and result. Thanks.

I normally use a good sharp knife for this, but I'm normally thinning down / reshaping my handles.
That's why I kind of like link handles when the grain is good, because they're fat clubs with room for me to shape down.

I see and get what you mean about the fat clubs and having room to reshape. Thanks.

......

 

[Agent_H]

Interesting vise too.

That's cool that you tried the hacksaw blade. Their edges do get dull after a while - the plus side is there is so much edge that you can use them quite a bit. They also flex to meet more of the handle on the sides. I clamp mine in the vise, push an old knife steel at the opposing edge to just roll it over evenly on both sides, then a couple of sweeps evenly up the flat to just raise the burr/edge. It takes a couple of times to get it even but then you have both sides somewhat burnished/sharp again. Beats dulling a good knife or filling a rasp full of it on each swipe just to get lacquer off handles.

I have a set of the English made scrapers but they are "nice enough" to use for finer/detail shaping on octagonal flats/edges and hard to reach places getting into the palm swell. I say "nice enough" now just because I lack some sort of touch to put a burnished edge back on them like they came with - not for the lack of trying...

What do you picture going on that handle?

 

[Miller '72]

Agent h

Yes exactly, I thought the flex in the blade was instrumental to work around the handle curves.
Thanks on the vise, Trojan #704. I have a c.parker in the basement I want to clean up and swap with this guy and do the same, mount them both on my bench...anyway I digress.
The handle was going to get this boys axe head originally, the eye fits well enough but the head is to heavy for the length, and it's just ugly.

So now it will await i think a proper hatchet head, after I am done shaping, light sanding and applying BLO. The knob like desire is inspired by the Rogers Very Best I have.
Great practice for a the other handles I have for the couple heads (Collins & Kelly) I want to rehab and hang to.
I am still looking locally for a good handle to use and or shape a bit into the Plumb National I have. I will know when I see it.

Thanks
Miller CT

 

[Miller '72]

I filled the gap in the eye and a few more coats with blo...I have myself my first hang.
Thanks to AgentH and 300six for advice about the gap in my eye.

 

[Miller '72]

I did it again...tried fitting to small a handle(haft?) onto to large an eye.
I feel I made a very strong hang, and the shim/wedge I made really went in strong with the wedge together, straight thru, one piece .

Learning curve.

The next hang may, should show some improvement...

Thanks for looking.
I am truely addicted to rehabbing axes and all wood handled tools now!

I see a few of my family members possibly getting sharp, wood handled gifts this holiday season...not this Kelly though

Miller CT ⚒

 

[300Six]

That'll do the trick. If you tap on that wedge about a month or two from now you'll probably find that it'll go in a little bit further. This will enable the haft to swell over the wedge and effectively lock it in place.

 

[Miller '72]

That'll do the trick. If you tap on that wedge about a month or two from now you'll probably find that it'll go in a little bit further. This will enable the haft to swell over the wedge and effectively lock it in place.

Thanks 300
This hang may not have been perfect but I had a lot of fun working the handle, making the wedge piece to fill the gap...I enjoy the whole process.
I have my Plumb I want to hang next...I have not found a suitable handle in the four hardware stores I can get to...I may totally shape to fit an older, lacquered, wood chipper maul handle I scored free last month.

 

[300Six]

I slimmed down a maul handle for adapting to a rafting head a month ago. Got the handle weight from 2 1/2 lb. down to 1 1/4. Make a rectangle shape first and then round the corners. Making flats square to each other is a bit tricky. I did the final handle shaping after the head was installed just to ensure the alignment was dead on.

 

[Miller '72]

Thank you for the help
I have thought/planned to cut the handle down first, to a shorter desired length then work the haft to shape and size of eye for a snug fit that will ultimately hang down to the shoulder with friendly persuasion
After final fitting and before hanging, I will shape the handle too like you suggest.

I am thinking a more rounded tool feel to the handle but I will know when I start seeing and feeling what I have been imagining, or not LOL!
Thanks again, really value the advice, input and opinions.

Miller

 

[300Six]

A square-cut, or octagon-ized haft would seem to be a 'cop out' for handle makers but there's more strength and better grip in this than if you go outright oval. Start off squared and then gently rasp your way on to whatever is comfy.

 

[Miller '72]

A square-cut, or octagon-ized haft would seem to be a 'cop out' for handle makers but there's more strength and better grip in this than if you go outright oval. Start off squared and then gently rasp your way on to whatever is comfy.

I definitely agree that I get a better grip with the squared, octagonal shapes. That's what I did with the round handle of the Kelly I just finished. I wanted octagon but ended with the tapered, soft square and it feels great and the grip i get is tight as hell.
I have a hunch this is where I might end up when I finish...and can't wait to start with my rasp tonight after the little ones are in bed.

 

[Square_peg]

I like the feel of an octagon handle.