BreakFree CLP as a Honing Oil

No way. Too expensive. As I understand it, all the oil does is float abraded particles so they won't become embedded in the stone. Mineral oil does that well without unnecessary additives.
 
Too expensive ??

I bought the large can at Home Depot maybe 4-5 years ago , I use it to clean my firearms and as a honing oil and for my patio door , hinges , removing stickers , etc etc, and the can is just now getting to the empty point - keep in mind I do some sort of work on a knife or other project nearly every night to keep from getting bored.


This place has it for 11 bucks
http://www.publicsafetylighting.com/brclp12ozaes.html
11 bucks for a all purpose lube that has lasted 4-5 years is what I call value.:D
 
I get it by the case...4 gallons at a time. Buying in bulk saves a lot!
It's great stuff!
 
Can you, yes. Should you? I wouldn't. The whole point of using oil on a stone is to prevent particulates from loading the surface, and while breakfree would do that it would also end up soaking the stone in teflon particles, which over time I would imagine may lead to glazing problems. I would sooner use WD40 on a hone than a teflon containing product.
 
I think any harm would be largely theoretical. I've been using CLP as a hone lube on one stone since 1983 or so (probably 2x week on average). Teflon loading doesn't seem to be a problem; the stone still works fine. Every time I use it though, I'm reminded how much I miss the aroma of the early Breakfree.
 
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Can you, yes. Should you? I wouldn't. The whole point of using oil on a stone is to prevent particulates from loading the surface, and while breakfree would do that it would also end up soaking the stone in teflon particles, which over time I would imagine may lead to glazing problems. I would sooner use WD40 on a hone than a teflon containing product.
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It's never gummed up any of my stones , even the silicon carbide ones that one would think might get gummed.
 
I don't know what it'll do since it has teflon in it, but I do know that you'll be able to get a sharper edge without oil anyways. Particulates from the stone and from the edge float in the oil and collide with the edge of the knife as you sharpen. It ends up putting little micro chips in the edge and as a result your knife doesn't get as sharp as it could.

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Forgot to say that since your not using oil the stone will load up faster but as long as you clean it with water and a 3M pad or mild abrasive it'll unclog without a problem.
 
For years I've used Razor Edge stones as they don't need oil or water you simply dust them off. They never load up.
 
Uncle Rukus said:
I don't know what it'll do since it has teflon in it, but I do know that you'll be able to get a sharper edge without oil anyways. Particulates from the stone and from the edge float in the oil and collide with the edge of the knife as you sharpen. It ends up putting little micro chips in the edge and as a result your knife doesn't get as sharp as it could...
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I have read this theory before and it just doesn't make sense to me. How much resistance can a floating particle offer to an advancing edge other than its own inertia in the viscous oil? If the edge is so delicate that it could suffer "micro chips" from coliding with floating particles, then what could such a delicate edge cut beyond soft butter with out being chipped? It just doesn't make sense.
 
Zeasor said:
I have read this theory before and it just doesn't make sense to me. How much resistance can a floating particle offer to an advancing edge other than its own inertia in the viscous oil? If the edge is so delicate that it could suffer "micro chips" from coliding with floating particles, then what could such a delicate edge cut beyond soft butter with out being chipped? It just doesn't make sense.
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If the particle is harder than the edge it scrapes and chips it head on, I guess when you have alot of particles it chips the edge a whole bunch. It doesn't really make a difference unless you're trying to get a ridiculously sharp edge.
 
I for one think that dust and particulates sitting on the surface of a dry hone would cause more trouble than when they are suspended. Ideally of course a perfectly flat sharpening surface that is perfectly clean will work best, but I find the closest way to approach this is using waterstones and washing them off before any mud builds up.
 
Uncle Rukus said:
If the particle is harder than the edge it scrapes and chips it head on, I guess when you have alot of particles it chips the edge a whole bunch. It doesn't really make a difference unless you're trying to get a ridiculously sharp edge.
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Imagine one particle suspended in oil, happily floating along, minding its own business. Along comes a slow moving blade edge, colliding with the particle. Do you suppose such a collision will chip the blade or does the steel have enough structural rigidity to deflect the particle (even though it's harder than the steel) without damage? There is such minimal resistance to deflection that I doubt it would overcome the structural integrity of the steel and cause a chip. Just my thoughts.
 
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