Breaking in a Manix

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Aug 14, 2017
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Is there a trick to break in a Spyderco Manix other that opening and closing it a few hundred times?

My Para2 and Para3 are flawless but the Manix opening, unlocking, and detent are very “sticky” in comparison.

I understand this is is trivial post relative to more important issues out there in the world kknife enthusiasts but I was hoping for a good hint.
 
The lock will probably have to just be worn in the hard way however you could throw some oil on the detend and pivote if you want it to be smoother. I sold my manix because of the lock it was too stiff when I was accustomed to benchmades.
 
Give it a month or so of normal use. Also, on mine (S110v) the pivot was cranked very tight. I slackened it - careful now, they use loctite - and there is zero play with a free falling blade. Beautiful piece of design and engineering. I didn’t do a lot of finger flinging with my Manix 2, just regular use loosened it up. :)
 
Is there a trick to break in a Spyderco Manix other that opening and closing it a few hundred times?

My Para2 and Para3 are flawless but the Manix opening, unlocking, and detent are very “sticky” in comparison.

I understand this is is trivial post relative to more important issues out there in the world kknife enthusiasts but I was hoping for a good hint.

I went through the exact same thought process when I picked up my Manix 2. Unfortunately mine is the LW, so any accelerated break-in options are a bit more involved. I have considered many times doing the screw mod (as well as the spring and/or bearing mod). But have so many other knives that I simply like better, so the urgency never actually makes it to the surface. Had I purchased mine without the pre-conceived notion of buying an axis-like Spyderco, it wouldn't have even been an idea in my mind that needed "fixing". To that end, I've just never really warmed up to my Manix. Maybe some day.
 
Just use the thing. Mine is baby butter ass smooth. It is so smooth that if you aren't careful that blade will swing down on you like a Guillotine.
 
Is there a trick to break in a Spyderco Manix other that opening and closing it a few hundred times?
I traded mine for a ZDP-189 Endura 4.
In spite of what some say a decently made tool / machine (knife) should just work out of the box. Sounds like yours is going to take more than tuning.

If you like the ball lock you might want to look at the Axis Lock.
My 940-1 is (and was out of the box brand new) perfection action wise. YMMV
My Para2 with basic old S30V (Cammo scales and DLC) was perfection out of the box. Super nice action. I never touched the pivot screw adjustment.
It can happen.

If you love the knife . . . if it is your idea of a KNIFE . . . massage it or send it in for massage. Otherwise I say dump it. Even if they are willing to pay you by the hour to open and close your knife isn't there better (more fun) ways to spend your time ?
I just thought of 36 billion ways and I wasn't trying.
 
I've had half a dozen of em and all just take a little bit of time to work in except the DLT exclusive. That one fresh out of the box was tuned perfect. Also can lightly release the pivot screw. I've changed out bearings and cut springs before as well but if I gotta go to that extent, its not worth it to me. Every blade has it's own characteristics.
 
Even if they are willing to pay you by the hour to open and close your knife isn't there better (more fun) ways to spend your time ?
I just thought of 36 billion ways and I wasn't trying.

Yeah? Well, I just thought of Avagadro's Number of better ways to spend your time.

Actually, I believe that compared to the axis lock, the ball bearing lock was intended to have a more firm detent and lock release. It's a matter of preference, but I always thought that the axis lock was too easy to operate and it made me a little uncertain of the security in the open and closed positions.
 
Yeah? Well, I just thought of Avagadro's Number of better ways to spend your time.

Actually, I believe that compared to the axis lock, the ball bearing lock was intended to have a more firm detent and lock release. It's a matter of preference, but I always thought that the axis lock was too easy to operate and it made me a little uncertain of the security in the open and closed positions.

partially agree. The Axis lock is a bit too easy to shake open. Easy to close is not a problem to me at all though.
 
Leave it half way open for a day or two. That compresses the spring.
I've heard this several times over the past few years. I still maintain that if this method actually works then Spyderco is using bad springs. Someone mentioned this over on Spyderco forum a few weeks ago so, just for kicks, I left the blade of my new Manix 2 52100 half open for a few days. It didn't seem to help.
 
I've heard this several times over the past few years. I still maintain that if this method actually works then Spyderco is using bad springs. Someone mentioned this over on Spyderco forum a few weeks ago so, just for kicks, I left the blade of my new Manix 2 52100 half open for a few days. It didn't seem to help.

no that info is incorrect. I heard about it for tri ad lock but never for cbbl lock and it does not make sense.
 
partially agree. The Axis lock is a bit too easy to shake open. Easy to close is not a problem to me at all though.

I've never had an axis lock close unintentionally, but I notice that the lock bar is easy to move a little with my thumb while using the knife. I thought that the ball bearing lock might have been designed stiffer to prevent releasing the lock accidentally.
 
I've never had an axis lock close unintentionally, but I notice that the lock bar is easy to move a little with my thumb while using the knife. I thought that the ball bearing lock might have been designed stiffer to prevent releasing the lock accidentally.

Cold be. After trying many knives, I prefer secure lock up to easy/accidental disengagement.
 
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