Broad Axe Preferences for hewing

J

jpeeler

Joined
Jan 25, 2013
Messages
261
Hello All,

Long time lurker, first time poster!


I've recently been transitioning from basic carpentry to timber framing/logging skills and tools. I'm working presently on my hewing and have been experimenting with a couple different styles of broad axes of different weights, including a Pennsylvania pattern, Canadian pattern, cooper's broad axe and the Gransfors model 1900. I'm starting to sort out some obvious preferences, but my question to you all is....

If you hew, what axe is your primary? Why? Do you use more than one?


Thanks,
John
 
I'm using a Canadian pattern. It's the only one I have hung so I can't compare it to anything. I'd be interested in hearing your preferences.
 
G-Pig- How heavy is your axe? Do you prefer double bevels?

Peg- I've found so far my canadian pattern too heavy. Do you have a long or short handle on it? Do you grip close to the head or farther back?

John
 
jpeeler said:
G-Pig- How heavy is your axe? Do you prefer double bevels?

Peg- I've found so far my canadian pattern too heavy. Do you have a long or short handle on it? Do you grip close to the head or farther back?

John
Click to expand...

Frankly, I'm not sure. I can tell you positively it is under 5 pounds. Probably under 4. I like the double bevels, yes, since I feel it offers more control and can hew just as well with a little getting used to.
 
Using a side axe, or axe with single bevel is diving right in at the deep end which has its own advantages especially if you have some good instruction and preparation. Starting cold turkey though and on your own a double beveled axe is more forgiving and I think will allow you to figure out the technique while you go with less frustration and may suffice in the end. It seems you have access to a range which is ideal.
I'm using mostly the 1700 model, so, double bevel, which is really a Rolls Royce, and intended for the kind of work you describe, jp, forge welded with high carbon content steel insert - in my opinion a requirement - by Lars Enander. I have had it for about fifteen years and always come back to it out of sheer comfort, I do like that hickory handle, and it works well even on difficult wood. The beefed up bevels are unfriendly in maintenance with such a lot of surface area to work with stones. The trade-off you have to accept with double bevels is that a flatter surface you might be seeking is always out of reach compared to a side axe.


E.DB.
 
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Thanks Ernest! I definitely prefer the double bevel Gransfors right now. I find it easier to control depth of cut, especially in the fine hewing.

The thing I struggle with most is the weight of some of the bigger axes. I am not a puny guy, and am very used to manual work in the woods, but lugging around that big Pennsylvania is too much, Compared with the ease and effectiveness of the Gransfors. I guess my question is, for those using one of the big, heavy single bevel patterns, Do you get used to it? Is it worth it? How about Goosewings?

John
 
The weight should in fact not be a disadvantage, well in lugging it around maybe but that's what your pick-up is for, if that is how you experience it, look first to your technique such as how often do you make a bogard or a swing without taking a bite, or try loosening up the action all-round or changing your position relative to the work such as take a sitting posture atop the beam for example, this is one way I have worked with a gooswing. You will definitely get used to it necessarily because the axe itself will teach you many things as you go. I had this one but got rid of it even though I think it was a pretty good one. In a way I regret selling it and will get another when one as good turns up, feeling a bit short handed without.



E.DB.
 
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Thanks for the advice Ernest, I'm gonna give the bigger axes another try. I was swinging a lot of misses now that I think about it.

John
 
Another thing to go along with that that's more relevant to these North American types is that often the back, or non-beveled side, will not be so flat, they will be more or less convex, if not parabolic. Not a bad thing for simplifying the way the axe cuts because then you create more of a gouge that way, which is basically the effect given by the double bevel also. So I guess, because I have not used such an axe, to take full advantage of this you would want to center your cuts at the apex of the arch in the cutting edge and in your mind think more of scooping that slicing, if that helps.

E.DB.
 
I get what you're saying. My Penn has a quite noticeable sweep. I Would rather have a flat back though, seems like it would lend itself to a flatter surface. Are most Goosewings flat on the back?

John
 
Yes, yes, yes. Sweep, that's a good word for it, I'll have to remember that. And to take the flatness even further, give it a straight cutting edge. Then you're talking a real motherfucker.


E.DB.
 
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jpeeler said:
I guess my question is, for those using one of the big, heavy single bevel patterns, Do you get used to it? Is it worth it? How about Goosewings?
Click to expand...

Yes, you get used to it. You learn to hew with your whole body, not just your arms. That's the key. You guide the axe based on the feel of the last stroke, not by eye. Mine is 8 pounds but I've been swinging impact tools all my life. Is the weight worth it? I can't say as I've never swung one of the little Gransfors axes. I'd like to try one.

I like the single bevel because the weight of the axe is directly behind the impact, not out at an angle.
 
This is good stuff guys, thanks for helping me out. I really feel like my technique was what was screwing me up, not the axe. Can't wait to try it out again.

John
 
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