Brothers Printer for Etching Stencil

Cricut premium removable vinyl. They are 12” x 12” and about 4 for $6. They are great for someone (like my wife) who is into crafting and scrapbooking. They
 
Cricut premium removable vinyl. They are 12” x 12” and about 4 for $6. They are great for someone (like my wife) who is into crafting and scrapbooking. They
I bought my wife a Cricut machine for Christmas. She has made a million cards and a bunch of lettering for wooden signs. Now I finally have something useful for her cutter!
 
I am planning to look at putting a maker's mark on my knives soon. So I have done zero reading about etching logos. So my noob question is what paper/tape are you using to make the stencils?

I would suggest doing some reading. Lots of resources on here already about the typical way people etch their logos. This thread is for an alternative, less tried and true method .
 
I would suggest doing some reading. Lots of resources on here already about the typical way people etch their logos. This thread is for an alternative, less tried and true method .
I watched a number of videos this evening. I understand the stencil part now and have several examples of electro etchers that I could make for a pretty good price. I think I am on my way....
 
I received the stencil tape yesterday and did some tests. I am disappointed. Even in the serializing attempts. I won't be using this on knives.

The resolution is not high enough and it prints out with jagged edges where they should be smooth. I also found that the stencil tape can't be used the same as the high quality vinyl stencils. It won't resist at high temps. So if trying to etch deep into the steel, it just won't work well. The tape ends up breaking down and leaking solution through. You can see evidence of this in the dots around each attempt.

Can it work? Yes. Marking on surface worked. But the quality is not to the standard I want. The tape won't resist properly to get a decent, dark, marking.
 

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Thank you so much for testing this - sorry it didn't work, and from the looks of it, I don't think I'll be purchasing the printer. I hope you do find some use for it so you can get your money's worth.
 
I have wanted to test it for awhile .and it just happens that we needed a label maker right now as well. It will definitely be put to use.... Just not with knives.
 
Hello BladeForums,

So I just picked up a personalizer plus, and also reached out to Ernie to get some stencils made up. While exploring the internet came across a video of a guy using a Brother PT700 Printer with their Stencil tape, and literally just printing stencils that he then etched onto a blade.

Looked super easy, and give the ability to be creative and make stencils on a moments notice. Has anyone tried this? Advantages or disadvantages? Also I should probably mention that I am not a professional knife maker, just a hobbyist that sells the knives to fund more material.
Looking forward to see your results. I tried a year ago and wasn't very successful on my small mark.
 
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Welcome Geezly. It is a good idea to fill out your profile so we know where you are and a bit about you.

This conversation is about 5 months old. It is wise to look at the last several posting dates to avoid resurrecting an old thread, unless you have something pertinent or new information to add to the conversation.
 
I know this is an old post, as stated above, but I feel my comments are more pertinent to this post rather than starting a new one.
Don’t write off the Brother P700 too quickly. I’ve etched a few knives with these stencils quite successfully.
Bmillekers pics are mostly using the AC print style etch. To be honest I haven’t tried that but see no reason why it can’t be done more satisfactorily. My etching has all been done with DC current leaving an engraved etch. The messy dots in the pics are caused by dirt. The steel needs to be cleaned with acetate or rubbing alcohol before placing the stencil. I know that through experience. The blurry edges will sand out with 1000 grit paper leaving a crisp edge. Also don’t hold the robber on the stencil or it will melt and leave a mess. Just keep dabbing it. Depending on your amperage that’s can be 20 dabs like my 6amp battery charger, (new machine on its way), or possibly 50 with a lower amperage. Experiment before hitting the blade. Someone else mentioned the amount of etchant so yeh, too much will flood it, just keep it damp.
You can make custom images/logos then import them very easily. I’ve etched txt to the 4mm spine at size 10 and it came out clear.
The only downside I would mention is that you can hardly see the etch when trying to line things up. Apparently you can swipe it with a highlighter but I didn’t get much success with that, maybe wrong colour. What I do is mark the edges of the etch with a thin marker so I can line them up and not to tape over these lines.
I would recommend it to anyone who was/is interested in this machine. Cheap, quick and easy to use and makes good etches. Not very visible but that just the pic.
 
Thanks for the info.

I was duplicating my current process that I use with the vinyl stencils from IMG. Etch, full power on my Personalizer Plus. Multiple small dabs on the stencil. Letting the gases out between each dab. This leaves me a deep "engraving" in the steel.

The stencil tape I was using on the Brother broke down trying to do the same thing. I also don't believe the dots are dirt. I always clean the steel well before putting my logo on the blades. Because the stencil just wont stick if the steel isn't clean of oil.

If the stencil paper held up, I would still have issue with the resolution of the logo. The printer isn't printing high enough resolution to leave crisp edges on logo marks.

I would love to see photos of your results. Maybe I was using different stencil tape.
 
Thanks for the info.

I was duplicating my current process that I use with the vinyl stencils from IMG. Etch, full power on my Personalizer Plus. Multiple small dabs on the stencil. Letting the gases out between each dab. This leaves me a deep "engraving" in the steel.

The stencil tape I was using on the Brother broke down trying to do the same thing. I also don't believe the dots are dirt. I always clean the steel well before putting my logo on the blades. Because the stencil just wont stick if the steel isn't clean of oil.

If the stencil paper held up, I would still have issue with the resolution of the logo. The printer isn't printing high enough resolution to leave crisp edges on logo marks.

I would love to see photos of your results. Maybe I was using different stencil tape.
What’s amperage was that? I’ve just been using my battery charger which is rated at 8amps but not sure what it puts out, probably a bit less than that but still over powered. Have to be careful not to burn the stencil, just dabbing it has been successful for me. I haven’t been able to blacken the etches though, yet,. I have a machine ordered, it’s being built by a friend so looking forward to see how that works out.
I know I was having the same issues with the dots but took extra care cleaning it before etching, giving it a high grit rub then a good clean with acetone and that’s solved that issue for me. After I’ve etched it looks messy/blurred round the edges but cleans up with a high grit paper.
To be fair I haven’t used any other stencils to compare it to but I’m happy with the results.
Sorry about the pics, I don’t know how to post them. I’m a bit ignorant of URL’s and things, not sure what I’m doing. I tried to copy and paste but they didn’t post.
 
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