Buck 110 or Case Mini-Trapper

Both my Buck 112 and my Case trappers have little play and the Buck lock up remains vey tight. The lock back system is very sound. It is a reasonably priced, solid working knife plus it looks good, particularly when the brass bolsters are shined up and they contrast with the rosewood scales. I only ended up changing to a leatherman tool as my daily wearer because I needed some of the other tools that it offers.
 
You picked a good time to start looking at the Buck 110 and 112. Buck just recently switched from using Dymondwood (laminate plywood) to using sustainably sourced SOLID ebony for their handles... And they did it with no price increase!

On a side note, since you’re interested in the “made in the USA” aspect of the knives. I took a tour of the Buck facility back in September and they had a new machine in that they were really proud of. It allowed them to make the hardware for some of their knives in house. So now, some of their knives, even down to the screws, are made here in the USA. I thought that was pretty cool.

I also have a Case Mini Trapper Wharncliffe (smooth chestnut bone and damascus steel) and HIGHLY recommend it, but they are two completely different beasts.
 
What about the buck 55. Smaller version on 110.
I knew about it but it seems too small. I don't know the exact measurements but even if the mini trapper was the same size as the buck 55 I would argue that a locking blade isn't necessary for a knife the size of the Buck 55. I also looked at values for that knife and the Buck 55 is pretty terrible unless that is exactly what you want. At 49$ on amazon the price is 7$ more than the 110 which I find ridiculous. And it is 3$ less than the goldilocks sized buck 112. I appreciate the suggestion, thankyou!
 
I've been carrying my BUCK 110 for several decades. Its the model with finger grooved handle. This knife has produced fine service for me. But my pocket knife is a sow belly stockman made by Rough Rider. The steel is remarkably good for an inexpensive import.

Max
 
46106563381_4939a0d437_c.jpg
 
I am interested in the new 110 and 112 Slim in micarta, more so the 112.
 
How well has the blade lock held up. I understand that after a while the pivot and/or blade lock can wear out causing the knife to loosen up.

Buck 110s and 112s were hard-use folders before anybody ever used that term. I suppose that if you pounded on it, you could loosen the pivot with time, but I've carried a 112 as a work knife for years and it's still solid as an anvil.

Case knives are also good tools. You can get years of good service from a mini-trapper.
 
Buck 110s and 112s were hard-use folders before anybody ever used that term. I suppose that if you pounded on it, you could loosen the pivot with time, but I've carried a 112 as a work knife for years and it's still solid as an anvil.

Case knives are also good tools. You can get years of good service from a mini-trapper.

Years of service is what I want put of a knife. I really wanted the 112 also but it was too expensive for me. The case mini trapper is similar to a swiss army knife in shape and size. I also impulse bought an ontario ratII in D2 to scratch that itch for a locking blade. I hope the rat II while very different from the classic 112 will satisfy me.

So now here are all the knives I now own:
Ontario pilot survival knife (1980), morakniv companion, swiss army knife (15 tools), and a Gerber prodigy.
 
Years of service is what I want put of a knife. I really wanted the 112 also but it was too expensive for me. The case mini trapper is similar to a swiss army knife in shape and size. I also impulse bought an ontario ratII in D2 to scratch that itch for a locking blade. I hope the rat II while very different from the classic 112 will satisfy me.

So now here are all the knives I now own:
Ontario pilot survival knife (1980), morakniv companion, swiss army knife (15 tools), and a Gerber prodigy.

You want to get a 112. Not trying to help Buck, just don't want you to miss out. My favorite is a custom shop 112 in S30V and ironwood handles, a knife of remarkable subdued beauty and strength.
 
How well has the blade lock held up. I understand that after a while the pivot and/or blade lock can wear out causing the knife to loosen up. Did you ever feel the need to take the knife apart (I know you cant take it apart) because something like the blade becoming a bit loose.

If you use a Buck as a cutting tool and not a pry bar/chisel/wood splitting wedge/sledge hammer it will easily outlast the user.

Honestly I never saw the need to take apart any knife. If they get super dirty I'll spray them out with WD40 or similar. The only knife I ever took apart was a cheap Kershaw that was binding because a screw was over tightened from the factory.
 
I wish Buck would update the 110. Sure you can have a 110 classic line, but maybe have a 110M or something that includes screw construction and other updates.
 
I've got a 110 that I did pocket carry for a while, but for it's size and weight, there are actually fixed blade knives that are easier to carry. For me at least. Between the two you mentioned though, I'd go with the Buck 110. Or the s30v 112 ranger if you can afford it. Very nice knife for right around $100 if I'm not mistaken .
 
Update**
After receiving the case mini trapper I was disappointed to find signs of poor quality on the knife. The grind on the handle was messed up (this is minor but still very annoying) and near the pivots there were spots on the blade without chrome. The bone handle (I know that case & sons can't control the bone density and color) color on mine was an ugly brown and it was also two different colors on the same scale. I am definitely returning the knife. I have also selected another edc knife that I am keeping which has nothing in common with the two knives I was trying to choose between when I started this thread- a rat II in D2 steel. I guess the Case mini trapper temporarily turned me off of traditional pocket knives. I STRONGLY suggest that if you buy any Case & sons knife go buy it in the store if you can. I still will get a Buck knife but that will have to wait. Your mileage may vary with case & sons but I suggest you stay away from buying them over the internet and go to the store where you can cherry pick the right knife for you.
 
I've got a 110 that I did pocket carry for a while, but for it's size and weight, there are actually fixed blade knives that are easier to carry. For me at least. Between the two you mentioned though, I'd go with the Buck 110. Or the s30v 112 ranger if you can afford it. Very nice knife for right around $100 if I'm not mistaken .
The buck 110 is a good value at a lesser price than the smaller 112, but I live in California where any tool that could also be used as a weapon is treated like a weapon. The Buck 110 is big enough that I would be nervous using it around others.
 
I just received a Case Copperlock that I ordered online. The only flaw is that it wasn't very sharp when I got it, but it's sharp now. For $48, I think I got a good value. Based on my experience, I encourage you to give Case another chance.

By the way, the blades on Case knives are polished. I think they might have used chrome at one point in their history, that was before my time. Perhaps someone more knowledgeable can comment.
 
How well has the blade lock held up. I understand that after a while the pivot and/or blade lock can wear out causing the knife to loosen up. Did you ever feel the need to take the knife apart (I know you cant take it apart) because something like the blade becoming a bit loose.
I own many 110 and 112 knives. The pivot can become a bit loose but, like with any pinned knife (including Case slipjoints) a few smacks with a mallet tightens it right up.
 
Back
Top