Buck 110 Review

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Can somebody do a review on the buck 110 for me? I just bought one, haven't used it and i'm off to maine soon. I'll be there for a bit over a month so I want to go prepared. How well does the knife hold up to carving/cutting? Does it hold an edge for a long time or do I have to bring a sharpening system? Is it a sturdy knife with a good blade? I just have the normal 110 with no finger grooves. Any information would be appreciated.
 
Set your mind at ease. The 110 is a great knife and will do anything you need it to do. It is always a good idea to have something to sharpen your knife.

Best of luck,
John
 
A review? this is the classic of classics. Like john said, set your mind at ease. it has survived the test of time. You have a legend on your hip.
 
as stated...a darn good knife , as I have had mine now for over 20+ years , watch out for the thin tips , no prying with it , a bit slick in the hand when wet , great edge holder but you should always have a stone/steel with you just for touch up....

if you take care of a 110...it will do just about everything well... great small game knife..

jmho....GG
 
Yeah, no I'm sorry i didnt mean review. And i figured the traditional section was where i should be. I do sharpen all of my knives, but sometimes i can't be bothered with it. I like to just be able to bring a sturdy, great edge holding knife with me on trips. My CRKT M16 is my all around favorite knife, but i would like to give this 110 a shot. My uncles have both told me they had one and they loved it when they were younger, like back in the 70's. It looks and feels like a great knife and its been around forever so it must be doing something right. I was more so looking for what you guys have used it for, if you use it on the job and about how often you need to sharpen it. I love the tip on it, i am not abusive on my knives tips nor have i ever used a knife for prying, except maybe to pry staples or split some thin branches.
 
There was an article in one of the knife magazines a few years back about a hunter up in Alaska that killed a grizzly that attacked him, with his Buck 110. :thumbup:
 
Wow. I love the feel of the knife when it locks and how there is 0 play in it. I bought mine for 37.99 in NJ almost two years ago, came with a nice black leather sheath. I just hate how i have to keep polishing the thing! Ive cut a few things here and there mainly string nothing crazy. But I'm going to maine with my girlfriend so I think i'm going to try and get her comfortable with knives, i've started her with some small knives (she has no idea on my plan) haha. I carried around my benchmade benchmite for a little while and let her play with it she seemed interested. But when i asked her if she wanted me to bring her a knife on the trip it was a really fast no. So i think i may try and have her carve or something, most people seem to enjoy that right? Im thinkin ill let her use the 110 she said it was "pretty" or something along those lines lol. Just wanna know if i can bring it with me on hikes or let her carve with it and use it around the yard without having to sharpen it 80 times while im there.
 
IF you use it every day for a month, it will need sharpened. Most any knife will if you like a truely sharp edge. It should stay "functionally sharp" the entire time without any sharpening if it doesn't get abused, but what fun is a mediocre edge.

If you're that concerned about edge holding, see if any Walmart stores around you carry the Spyderco Native. That's about the best edge holding you'll find on a knife that price.
 
This is'nt really a review, it's just some comments I made in an old thread about the Buck 110....

I suppose it really depends upon how you use your knife.

If you just need a sharp object to open the mail or cut the occassional loose thread, then you really don't need more than a simple $3.00 dollar "box-cutter" (and replacement blades are very cheap too so you don't even need to buy a sharpener).

But if you want cutting performance (not chopping, not prying, but cutting), then the Buck 110 is very hard to beat.

It's all about the design....
The Buck 110 is simply one of the best designed knives of all time.

Consider the handle:
The handle is nearly perfect in size and shape.
It fills the hand just enough without being to wide or too narrow, and there are no sharp edges to the handle that might cause a blister or hot-spot.
The Buck 110 handle was made for long term comfort for hours of cutting.
I've never known anyone who thought that the Buck 110 handle was uncomfortable to hold and to use.
In thread after thread concerning the subject of "comfortable knives to use" the Buck 110 is always named and recommended.
And the Buck 110 handle is secure in the grip too.
And if does not need to rely upon "traction grooves" or rough texture...the design of the handle itself makes it secure in the grip.
Even covered with deer blood, it is secure.

Consider the lock:
The lock-back design has proven itself to be reliable, safe, and long-lasting for nearly forty years.
The lock-back is even used in many of today's most modern folders (like the Spyderco Manix).
Is it the strongest lock on the market?
No.
But it is more than strong enough for a folding knife of its size.
I have never known anyone to break the lock on a Buck 110 without doing something that they knew they should not have been doing with a folder.
It simply will not "just break" with normal folder use.

Consider the price and origin:
The basic Buck 110 can be had for about $30.00 dollars....and it's a USA made knife!
There are very few USA made folders, of equal design in comfort and performance and durability, for that price.
The Buck 110 is truely the working man's folder.
No one is ever ashamed to be seen with a Buck 110.

Consider the performance:
The blade geometry and design of the Buck 110 is simply fantastic!
The precise needle sharp tip and the high hollow-grind, combined with that comfortable handle makes for an incredible cutting machine.
Even the basic Buck 110 with 420HC blade-steel will out cut many knives with superior steel.
And when you step up to a Custom Shoppe 110 with BG-42 or ATS-34, or the Cabela's Alaskan Guide 110 with S30V, you have a knife that can stand toe-to-toe ,for cutting performance, with any folding knife its size....bar none!

Oh yeah, and it's beautiful too!:)

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To address a few concerns....

It has no pocket-clip:
True.
But this not necessarily a negative.
Pocket-clips are handy to be sure, but they also have their drawbacks:
The can cause hot-spots and blisters (especially during long-term cutting).
They can scratch furniture and damage things too.
They can catch on things and dislodge the knife from your pocket.
And they advertise that you're carrying a knife.
On the other hand, the belt sheath is not only secure and comfortable, but it also protects your folder from being affected by pocket debris (lint, coins, keys, etc...).
I've carried pocket-clip folders for years and the clip always catches more than its fair share of abuse.
Still, if you simply must have a pocket-clip, one can be added aftermarket.

It is not a "one-hand-folder":
Well, this is simply not true.
I, and plenty of other folks, use our 110's with one hand all the time, everyday.
It just takes a little practice.
No, it's not as quick to deploy as a dedicated one-hander, but it is not slow by any means.
It's not like opening a Victorinox Soldier, or getting to the blade of a Leatherman SuperTool....
I can draw my 110 from it's sheath and have it open in my hand in about 4 seconds.
And I've never known of any situation, where I needed to cut something, that a couple of seconds made a difference....and if a few seconds DID matter, it would be better to carry a fixed-blade anyway.

It's heavy:
Yeah, the Buck 110 is a little heavy, but not to the extreme.
It is only about 1.5 oz heavier than a Spyderco Manix.
About 2.5 onces heavier than a Spyderco Police.
And only about 3.5 oz heavier than a Spyderco Military.
And the weight and heft give a certain inertia to some cuts....like how a nicely weighted golf club gives inertia to a golf swing.

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Allen.
 
+100 to everything allenc has said! Go to the Buck forum here and you'll need a week to read all the info about the 110. I have several; it's tied with the Spyderco Police as my favorite knife. Currently, I'm carrying a plain, standard issue 110 that I bought at Walmart. How can they make such a great knife so cheaply?

Another great thing about the Folding Hunter is Buck's fantastic warranty.

I recommend some type of sharpener. I prefer the Spyderco Sharpmaker, but it's not convenient on a road trip. I have used the traditional stones, but nothing gets that scary edge like the Sharpmaker.

For myself, I'm considering an open-top belt sheath for my 110(s). Less fussing on the draw. While I contemplate a custom made one, I'll be using a magazine pouch for a 1911 mag. It fits fine, just not ideal.

CanonRebelXTi--what part of Maine are you headed to? The peak foliage color has moved south, near the coast. A week or so ago, my wife and I drove up to the Quebec border, and the foliage was almost psychedelic. Have a great trip.

P.S.--And Welcome to the Forums!!
 
I agree with everything allenc said, and would add two minor points.

First, since the same manufacturer has been making this knife for about 40 years, any bugs (I know of only 1) have been worked out long, long ago, and in fact the design was improved over the years. You're getting the benifit of Buck's vast experience making this particular model. As a result, defective 110s are rare.

Second, Buck's warranty service is excellent. If you get a new 110 and something's wrong with it (highly unlikely) Buck will take care of it.

About the only thing I've noticed on some new Bucks is they may come with a little grit in the action. I've always been able to wash it out with dish soap and hot water, followed by a drop of Miltec1.
 
I have the 110's smaller brother the 112. I have used is for 40 years without a hitch. I had to replace the leather sheath this year as a hole in the bottom of the original was becoming a problem. You just cant lose with a Buck 110 or 112.:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
This knife is a classic! I got mine for a birthday present about 15yrs ago. My dad had his for about 40 years also. It was my primary knife for camping and hiking. I recently retired the knife since I joined this forum(we know how that goes), but I will never hesitate to take it if I have to. I just don't want to beat it up any more and pass it down to my son when he gets old enough. Yes it's heavy. At least you know that you have it on your hip. Think of it as a feeling of security.
Maybe I'll get the newer one from Walmart so if break it or lose it. I won't feel as bad.
 
Can someone please post a few pics of a dismantled 110? I would sure like to see its innerds to see how it works.
 
I just recently bought myself a 110 for a defensive carry knife, though i have owned the shorter blade 112 model for 15 years or so. It's been a great knife with solid lockup and nice feel in hand. The edge holds up well, and i'd recommend either. I do, however,.... still prefer the shorter 112 for everyday carry. Sometimes you may want the longer versioned 110,.................

AS AFTER................

..............a couple of turds broke thru my garage 2 weeks ago while i was out of town and destroyed a $40,000 refurbished and customized vintage Diebold Vault, i felt i needed the extra "penetration" the 110 offers over the 112 if i should ever need it for self-preservation. This follows a break in into my home only this past December!

This time the dirtbags stripped the vinyl siding off my attached shed, and broke thru the wood sheathing. They then covered the infrared detector with insulation to block it. According to the video they were there 9 hours. They got thru the outer 2 insulation doors that were mainly for fire protection, but then found the 2 inch thick hard plate anti-dynamite door with free-wheeling bolt handle too much to tackle,......and gave up after smashing off the bolt handle, combination dial, and compression lever used to close the 2000 pound inner door. (entire vault weighed 5500 lbs.)

Now, unfortunately,...... i can't get into it either! Two locksmiths were there 4 hours this past sunday and burned all their drills,.........and will have to come back probably more than once. (it might run $2-4K to open and remove the ruined safe) A real pain! :mad:

Anyway, after getting my 110,......i decided to gave 2 of my fellow coin store employees, the store owner, and a jeweler friend a model 112 a few weeks ago. They all love the knife!

The slightly shorter blade and overall size makes it less prone to catch on a chair when sitting with it in the leather sheath. With my 112 i never snag a chair,......with the 110 it does occassionally hang up,......or at least dig into the chair a bit. Both will work great for camping chores,......and if you do decide to get one for the little lady i would think the 112 would be a better choice when size is considered.
 
I've never really understood how well the 420HC steel Buck uses compares to other polished steels. Would a Buck 110 with 420HC blade be better than, say, a Cold Steel Voyager with an AUS 8 polished blade? I've heard folks say that Buck uses a very effective heat treating process that make it better than most other 420HC bladed knives, but I'm skeptical. I've also heard one fellow say it was as good or better than many premium steels, but in what ways? As steel becomes more edge retentive, it becomes less tough and vice versa.

I think Buck's heat treating is probably as good as it can be, but other than that I wonder how it would compare with AUS 8, VG-1 and 440A/440C.

Has anyone ever done any cutting tests?
 
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