Buck 317

Joined
Nov 25, 2015
Messages
4
Hi all, I'm new here. After my dad passed, my mom told me to go through his tools and see if I wanted any of them. I opened the tool box drawer and this knife was in there. I remember it from when I was a kid. Its a Buck 317 folding knife.

What can you tell me about it... age... materials... etc?

Thanks

buck%201.jpg

buck%202.jpg

buck%203.jpg
buck%204.jpg
buck%205.jpg
 
1. Lots of info on the 317 here use the search function.
2. I will give you a quick synapsis 440B steel, yours is a 72-74 (cleaned up, highly coveted)
 
I will give you a quick synapsis 440B steel

gsea, I thought Camillus contract knives were 440A - assuming this is a Camillus made knife.

Welcome Auriemma. Your father left you with a fine keepsake. Enjoy it! :thumbup:
 
Well... after taking gsea's suggestion of a forum search I found what Larry Oden posted in 2002:
Bernard,
Here is some info from an article I wrote for Knife World. It can be found in the Jan. 2000 issue. The 300 series knives were made on contract by Schrade and later, by Camillus. The 317 Trailblazer was only made by Camillus and was introduced about 1972. The original tang stamp was marked BUCK /MADE IN / U.S.A. and the model number was stamped on the reverse side of the master blade. Later in 1972, or perhaps in 1973, the more familiar three line stamp of BUCK / 317 / U.S.A. was incorporated. This change was made across the entire 300 series line.
In 1990, the 317 was removed from the catalog although Buck probably had a small supply in stock for some time after that.

That would make this an early production, 1972 Camillus made knife, according to him. There was another post saying it was 440C steel.

Now can someone define "cleaned up" properly. I do not want to cause any damage and there are quite a few opinions on cleaning.
I have no intention of using it.
 
Well... after taking gsea's suggestion of a forum search I found what Larry Oden posted in 2002:


That would make this an early production, 1972 Camillus made knife, according to him. There was another post saying it was 440C steel.

Now can someone define "cleaned up" properly. I do not want to cause any damage and there are quite a few opinions on cleaning.
I have no intention of using it.

You found a good post by a respected source. Not sure about the steel in the early 317. I thought most early 300 Series knives were 440A.

"Clean up" properly means to send it back to Buck for refurbishing for only $6.95. They will put the same satin finish on the blade and make everything look like new again.
 
Both the guys responding to this thread know their stuff. But TAH came thru in the end. So it was your dads knife and you want to clean it up some and have a keepsake. You have two options. Number One is you get an old toothbrush and some hot soapy water and give it a good brushing. Followed by a good blow dry by a hair dryer till its so hot you can't hold it. Then a good soak with some WD-40 or other oil. If you wanted you could carefully polish the metal with a good metal polish. Don't cut yourself. Most folks us Mother's Mag Wheel Polish or Flitz and a soft cloth.
Option Two (and this is the Gold metal, top of the heap method) is to email or call Buck Knives Customer Service and arrange for your knife to go to the factory for the "Spa" treatment. It will come back to you clean and shinny and sharp as a razor. Cost is usually less that $20 total outlay by you, which includes your postage to Idaho. I think I would recommend that if you do this wait till the Christmas Holidays are over to send it in. Call or email ahead to get shipment details and talk about what you got and what you want. Include a written note in the package also.

But, your call. If you want your Dad's bumps and nic's just give it a good cleaning and oiling. Like the TV antique show, your knife has a current market value of $50 - 75, more if you had the box and sheath and it was in mint condition. For insurance replacement value I would say $100 Bucks.......

300Bucks

oops wasn't paying attention TAH
 
Last edited:
Good read. I just obtained one of these just like the OP's.

**I can recommend Buck's spa service wholeheartedly. The knife comes back looking fantastic. But as mentioned, if you wish to keep the "flavor" of the knife from your father, follow the sound advice as given to clean it up some and maintain it from rust, etc.. Nice knife and a great remembrance!

***I should have added welcome to the forum and if you find yourself stopping by here often, you may find that somehow your Buck knife population will seem to increase for some reason. :)
 
gsea, I thought Camillus contract knives were 440A - assuming this is a Camillus made knife.

Welcome Auriemma. Your father left you with a fine keepsake. Enjoy it! :thumbup:

You are correct, a miss type. All though some of the 300s by Camillus had 440c. I guess it depend what they had available according to some posts on the Camillus threads.

Here is part of an answer 300 gave on an old post, he probably doesn't remember :)
"This is my 300 guideline until I am told by someone in authority different.

Before 1981 - 440C or 440A (Heavy on the A)
81 - 93 - 425M (Only in Buck made 301,303,309 and 305)
After 94 - 420HC (Buck made 300s only)"
 
That's interesting. Are you 2 firm on this? Not being facetious. I really want to know the skinny on those model steels. DM
 
Ok, lets don't off the end to far on the steel talk. I am going to go with TAH and gsea on the list he gave. I have been told by a couple of Camillus workers, "Maybe a little 440c but likely most all is 440a." So, I count on some of the good folks with good record keeping and knowledge to pick me up off the floor when I trip on my tongue or in this case my typing fingers.....I can't prove a single model was ever 440c.....IF I had been a Camillus supervisor and had some to use, it would have been on 317 blades or maybe some early 307s.....but that's just make believe talk......300
 
Ok, we have to let it go and wait for a more appropriate time. Then why did they go there? DM
 
Did do a little digging on this. From other forums that have Camillus talk etc I inquired again. According to what seemed pretty reliable information the 317 is 99.9% 440A. If some come out 440C it was a mistake. Thoughts behind using 440A were 1. Less carbon ... cheaper to buy the steel, can be sold cheaper (competition in an open market). 2. 440A is more rust resistant. 3. With 440A being a softer steel less chance of breakage, chips etc. With the 317 being an all around knife including EDC back then and popular amongst heavy knife users softer steel was better. 5. 440A is an easier steel to sharpen, now I know I am going to get lambasted on this but I feel it holds a sharper edge longer than 440C. Bottom line IMO it was cheaper steel to buy, and was fine for an everyday hard user knife.
 
gsea, A tip of my hat to you for your efforts, I will totally agree to the 99.9 info. BUT, I am staying out of the steel sharpening issue. David will be along shortly....tired of turkey making a big pot of 3 alarm chili. 300
 
I'll take some of that chili. I remember last year you did this and it caused you to stay up most of the night with indigestion. Make sure there are plenty of Tums on hand. Guys we can't get away with anything tonight...
440A makes good business sense and look at these models. This is not a high end knife. Why use a more expensive steel. Camillus does good heat treating with a cryo treatment. So, all will turn out well. Gsea, thank you for this digging, good work. I'm thinking you can say the source. What stones are you using to sharpen these blades? Thanks, DM
 
Thanks for the effort and the info. I didn't think ease of sharpening vs steel type was a hot button topic.
 
David
Let me premise this with I am not a sharpening aficionado and only sharpen my personal blades for my use. My grandfather worked for Norton Behr Manning and we got all kind of things (sand paper, sharpening stones, oil etc.) With that said I use a stone I got many many moons ago from him called an India Oil Stone. For me I just touch up my knives when they get to the point of if you were to cut yourself you would know it; Then I will touch them up to the point of if you were to cut yourself you wouldn't feel it. On a side note got a really cool fish hook sharpener from him when i was a kid and still use it.

 
Back
Top