Buck problems in the General forum

ANFOLDING KNIFE that is used to pry or intentionally used with side pressure on the blade WILL DEVLOPE WIGGLE
I don't care who makes it ..

I used to think the same thing still I started playing around with Opinels.

If you have a bench vice, $15 and some idle curiosity, you can try your hand on creating blade play. The blades are so thin and flexible and the joint is so tough (steel collar, not pinned bolsters) that you'll work harden and snap the blade before you'll damage the joint. You *can* bust the wood in the joint if you twist them hard enough, but that's pretty hard to do. I gave a #8 to a buddy who works as a carpenter and dared him saying I didn't think we could break it. He's had for 6 months and hasn't been able to bust it. Regularly uses is to open paint/putty/tar cans. The blade bends but snaps back. Zero blade play.

While interesting and sort of fun from a "can you bust it" point of view, I thinks it unrelated to the vertical play issue.
 
I picked up this 110 when I went to see David Martins Buck Knife display at a show.I've been meaning to send it for a spa job but as yet haven't.This is a 72 or 73 model that looks like someone beat the snot out of.Pulled it out this morning and the lock up is rock solid.This old knife has been rode hard and put up wet!The lock area at the base of the blade is cut straight.
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Look at the colour of that pivot pin guys, why has it patinated differently to the brass bolsters? Is it a different brass or steel than the modern ones are using??
 
Fact is I used mine just to slash/snap cut green thorns that were small, because they were green new growth (1/4" diameter or so) and it had loosened up bad, all directions just as soon as I checked it was loose. I never pried or twisted it at all. I was unpleasantly shocked to find a dead tight knife could become that loose so fast. So, I just stopped using it because I do have folders I'd used before that and they were tight after doing the same task. 20 something dollars I paid for the knife and sheath. So, it was hardly a huge big deal just I honestly thought it would have performed that light task nearly forever without being close to that loosened.
 
Fact is I used mine just to slash/snap cut green thorns that were small, because they were green new growth (1/4" diameter or so) and it had loosened up bad, all directions just as soon as I checked it was loose. I never pried or twisted it at all. I was unpleasantly shocked to find a dead tight knife could become that loose so fast. So, I just stopped using it because I do have folders I'd used before that and they were tight after doing the same task. 20 something dollars I paid for the knife and sheath. So, it was hardly a huge big deal just I honestly thought it would have performed that light task nearly forever without being close to that loosened.
I believe you jill,a Buck 110 should easily stand up to that task.
 
Fact is I used mine just to slash/snap cut green thorns that were small, because they were green new growth (1/4" diameter or so) and it had loosened up bad, all directions just as soon as I checked it was loose. I never pried or twisted it at all. I was unpleasantly shocked to find a dead tight knife could become that loose so fast. So, I just stopped using it because I do have folders I'd used before that and they were tight after doing the same task. 20 something dollars I paid for the knife and sheath. So, it was hardly a huge big deal just I honestly thought it would have performed that light task nearly forever without being close to that loosened.

That's pretty much my experience. I also held the bolster up the light and ran my finger nail across the pivot pin. There is a noticable shadow and 'nick' showing that the bolsters had moved apart during use.
 
There's supporting a company you like and there's finding fault in a returning customers experience, regardless of what was said.

I had issues with the particular product model, not the company. The company has been excellent to deal with and I will always pass that one, but I didn't like the knife for obvious reasons.
I agree with that and its my opinion everybody posting in this thread does too.
The disagreement is that Buck 110s don't have the issues stated as a general rule of thumb.
I saw a video that eased my mind about liner locks. I was very ingorant about liner locks even though I was carring em. This guy did the michael walker weight test on liners and lever lock mechanicisms. He had several brands of each kind. 2 things stood out. All liners even the cheap ones didn't fail. 2 even though it failed the 110 took the most weight to fail.
 
Here's a Buck I really like, I'm hardly bashing the brand. I've been around Buck knives all my life. They offer a great value and I've never had any problem out of the fixed blades. No breakage, chipping, rolling, handles loosening up, nothing. (and I have chopped with those)

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FWIW, this is one of the nicest 124 photos I've had the pleasure of viewing. Thank you for sharing Jill!
 
OK, I received my custom 110 back yesterday.
I posted about it further up in this thread.
Anyway, the blade now locks up tight with no play in either direction.
It's also perfectly centered when closed.
Fit and finish is beautiful.
However, the Oak on the knives I sent in was much nicer than this one.
I think they just made me a new knife because the 2 I sent in were hopeless.
Oh, Joe refunded me for the other knife too.
The funny thing, though, is that the blade was butter knife dull when it arrived.
Not a big problem cuz I know how to sharpen a blade.
But every other 110 I got from the custom shop was among the sharpest I've ever seen.
So, Buck gets an A for Customer Service from me.
However, they get a C at best for Quality Control.
Hopefully, threads like this will force improvements to be made.
Lenny
 
Most everyone in this thread has quite a few years on me in regards to knife using/collecting, but a very short story:

My first Buck 110 was from Wallyworld..... probably back in 2005. Just recalling from memory, but the lock tension was a bit weak and I could close the knife by (very lightly) thumping it on a carpet floor. There was some blade play too (side note: by design, lockbacks have some lateral play). To be honest, it would have functioned a lifetime without much worry, but it did seem just a bit sloppy (subjective). Partner broke the tip off doing who-knows-what. Sent it back to Buck with an enclosed letter inquiring about a possible blade upgrade to 154CM or a replacement. The lock issue was also noted. They sent me back a re-bladed 110 with a very stiff peened pivot. No real noticeable play and it locked up tight. Nice new sharp blade too :thumbup:. Been using the hell out of since then and it's loosened up a bit (which is a good thing). Spring is a little weak on closing but really who cares. It hangs out in the garage where my less expensive but trusted knives go for the real hard use.

I've since learned that knives usually only have a cutting edge on once side and you probably shouldn't whack the knife spine against a hard object to test for lock failure. Who came up with that parameter to test lock strength? A better test is to insert (or stab) the knife into a stack of cardboard and twist slightly while applying upward pressure to see if the lock fails. That's a much more realistic scenario that tests for essentially the same thing without exerting the knife to abrupt mechanical shock.
 
At the risk of getting in trouble with some here, I'm going to share a thought...I just can't imagine walking any trail where I would need a Buck 110 to enable my progress. In fact I keep getting a ridiculous mental picture of someone walking along a trail and using a 110 to cut things that I'd snap with my fingers, or push through without cutting, or move with a walking stick. If a trail truly needed cleared before moving along (and I have worked in areas so thick that you couldn't move a foot forward without first clearing), I'd use a machete. I feel the same about cutting my shrubs. Having spent years in the field as an archaeologist and worked many a Phase I, humping it through the bush, again, the 110 just never crossed my mind.

I honestly mean no offense. I'm just sharing my view. To those who have legitimate issues with the knife, more power to you. I hope Buck makes it right. My 110 is reserved for deer hunting. My old milsurp Ontario, for clearing brush.

I'll add that my most recent Buck 110' purchases were in the fall of 2012. Both knives had issues with proud blades, and lousy fit and finish. I returned one, and sent the second back to Buck. Prior to these two, I hadn't had any issue worth commenting on, but it did make me wonder if Buck is not doing as well on the 110 lately, and I would be hesitant to buy another without first inspecting.
 
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I don't walk along clearing brush with a folding knife. I cut blackberry vines and wild roses back off trails. I'd not advise trying to snap them with your fingers, unless you want bloody fingers. I do indeed push limbs aside that don't have thorns. Funny thing is despite all the talk of how I should use some heavy brush tool to cut these small green branches away, I have done so for years with only easy to carry folding knives.


Cutting a blackberry vine such as this I've done over and over, with all sorts of locking folders. A little harder is the multi flora rose bushes that have gone wild. They tend to have a harder stem, but I've had no problem using folding knives to keep both trimmed off my hiking trails. I am not about to carry anything that weighs over 8 oz. to do so and it is not a hard use task at all. Cheaper locking knives have performed it for me for years without any concern besides the cheap Walmart 110 was loose and sloppy in all directions within a couple of miles of usage.

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Multi flora rose is another you won't "snap with your fingers" nor will you "push through without cutting" yet I'm sure not packing something bigger than a folder on my belt to cut the ones off that grow rapidly this time of year, into my trails. Why? Because it's not needed. Folders can and do hold up very well in most cases to the light task. I've used them continue to do so and they remain my choice.

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Buck should make a 110 that's beefed up. Maybe redo the pivot pin, to a recessed larger threaded type and a heavier locking bar? Anyway I think it would be a pretty big hit, if they did redesign it to be ultra heavy duty. Even if it was 2 times the price I can't see it not selling.

I think this is the first time I ever heard of someone wanting a beefed up 110. Many folks today complain that its too beefy. I havent bought myself any new Bucks in some time but have bought the kids some of the cheap bantams and such. Most of my Buck bought recently have been older knives for use. I'll keep watching this thread.
 
They could put in a bigger threaded pivot and maybe rework the locking bar a bit. Wouldn't add much if any weight, but I bet the knife would hold up a lot better. Just my opinion and if it's never done I will still be okay.
 
despite all the talk of how I should use some heavy brush tool to cut these small green branches away

Jill,

I really didn't mean to offend. I'm sure you use what you feel is appropriate when walking your trails. My comments were really me just sharing my thoughts on how I approach the subject. I just wouldn't use a 110 for anything of the sort being discussed here, but that's just me.
 
Jill,

I really didn't mean to offend. I'm sure you use what you feel is appropriate when walking your trails. My comments were really me just sharing my thoughts on how I approach the subject. I just wouldn't use a 110 for anything of the sort being discussed here, but that's just me.

No offense taken. I was just trying to show what I use a knife for everyday. I've used a lot of different knives over the years a few smaller fixed blades and many more folders, to just whack the thorns back a bit on my hikes. It's surprising how some perform so much better than others on the cut too. But, it really isn't a very hard use.
 
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