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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Buck Strider 889BK SBMF Military Tactical Knife
- Thread starter cool_ion
- Start date
Hi-
I really like mine. nothing fancy, but a good solid EDC with a pretty good edge. I just bought a tarani-strider 882sbtg off Ebay, but haven't recieved it yet. I expect to like that too. Someday I'll buy the real deal ( In about 15 years when the kids move out!)
HAVE A GREAT DAY !
I really like mine. nothing fancy, but a good solid EDC with a pretty good edge. I just bought a tarani-strider 882sbtg off Ebay, but haven't recieved it yet. I expect to like that too. Someday I'll buy the real deal ( In about 15 years when the kids move out!)
HAVE A GREAT DAY !
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2001
- Messages
- 18,423
Not a bit, it's one of the most rock solid folders I have, tough and has a VERY strong lock.
yerscattergun
BANNED
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2007
- Messages
- 917
I bought an olive "Strider" Buck 889 on Monday from a local knife shop. Well,
I initially got a black one but after taking it home it failed a spine wack test
to the heel of my hand. Luckily the lady at the knife shop took it back and
exchanged it for another after I went through (looked at) 3 of them that all were unacceptable with the lock bar either all the way to the right of the tang touching the liner or very far to the right engagement leaving no room for wear. The lady at the shop even said it was dangerous after demonstrating the spine wack.
All I can say is if you are going to buy one, try to see it in person before buying. Quality control is horrible on these knives from my experience. The olive one I got was the best one and it locks up good with the lock slightly to the left of center with no play. Out of 5, the one I got was the only acceptable one to me (although if I didn't read these forums, I would have been fat, dumb and happy with any of them
). It sounds as if I hate these knives, but I actually like it. The ergonomics are great, it looks cool, and the
steel is supposed to be acceptable. I carried it yesterday and today at work.
Oh ya, it opens real quick and easy too with the oval shaped hole on the blade. Put in the effort to find one with a good lock and you will be happy like me.
I initially got a black one but after taking it home it failed a spine wack test
to the heel of my hand. Luckily the lady at the knife shop took it back and
exchanged it for another after I went through (looked at) 3 of them that all were unacceptable with the lock bar either all the way to the right of the tang touching the liner or very far to the right engagement leaving no room for wear. The lady at the shop even said it was dangerous after demonstrating the spine wack.
All I can say is if you are going to buy one, try to see it in person before buying. Quality control is horrible on these knives from my experience. The olive one I got was the best one and it locks up good with the lock slightly to the left of center with no play. Out of 5, the one I got was the only acceptable one to me (although if I didn't read these forums, I would have been fat, dumb and happy with any of them
). It sounds as if I hate these knives, but I actually like it. The ergonomics are great, it looks cool, and thesteel is supposed to be acceptable. I carried it yesterday and today at work.
Oh ya, it opens real quick and easy too with the oval shaped hole on the blade. Put in the effort to find one with a good lock and you will be happy like me.
I bought a 420mod and FRN tarani. Same as above, would slip the liner lock and close. I sent it in to Buck who promptly replaced it with one just like it.
Another "delayed action closer."
As a "cheap" copy of the Strider SnG, it fails as badly as any cheap chinese copy. The thin and short liner is easily pushed aside by the steep ramp, which is Buck's devaluation of the original thick framelock. So, if you can lay hands on one that doesn't, OK. Especially if it's G10 and ATS-34. Those are reportedly good to go.
I bought a SnG. No problems, and it's even thinner in the pocket. Rock solid lockup with no play or worries about value engineering.
Another "delayed action closer."
As a "cheap" copy of the Strider SnG, it fails as badly as any cheap chinese copy. The thin and short liner is easily pushed aside by the steep ramp, which is Buck's devaluation of the original thick framelock. So, if you can lay hands on one that doesn't, OK. Especially if it's G10 and ATS-34. Those are reportedly good to go.
I bought a SnG. No problems, and it's even thinner in the pocket. Rock solid lockup with no play or worries about value engineering.
Well, I must be lucky. I bought one a week or so ago and I've tested it thoroughly. I've had no problems with the lockup at all.
I don't do the "spine whack" test on knives. I don't normally hit hard objects with the back of my blade, so that isn't a real world test.
Just to be clear, Buck Striders are made in Idaho, not China.
stdlrf11
I don't do the "spine whack" test on knives. I don't normally hit hard objects with the back of my blade, so that isn't a real world test.
Just to be clear, Buck Striders are made in Idaho, not China.
stdlrf11
- Joined
- May 3, 2005
- Messages
- 959
I bought a tan color one and has never failed the spine whack. It is a good knife at a great price.
killerskill
Banned
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2006
- Messages
- 428
Save your money and buy a real Strider
Really, it isn't that much if you think about it. Take 5 of your hundred dollar knives or 10 of your cheaper knives, and you can have the best and never look back. I've been collecting knives since I was a kid, and one day I decided I was going to buy a top dollar knife, I saved for 3 years in a coffee can, just for a knife. The strider SMF I got was the only knife I've ever recieved in the mail or got a a store even, that I was truely impressed with. Anyway to your question, the buck striders are great for edc and very tough. Good bang for the buck. The frn handled ones modled after the SMF are ok, But spend alittle more and get the G-10 ATS34 880, or the tanto, I forget the model number. Those are built like a tank, and hold an egde forever. I don't own one but my buddy who does construction, and used it every day has it. I play with it all the time. He's had it and used it on the job for a few years, beat the crap out of it and it keeps coming back for more. Great knife. A tank.
Really, it isn't that much if you think about it. Take 5 of your hundred dollar knives or 10 of your cheaper knives, and you can have the best and never look back. I've been collecting knives since I was a kid, and one day I decided I was going to buy a top dollar knife, I saved for 3 years in a coffee can, just for a knife. The strider SMF I got was the only knife I've ever recieved in the mail or got a a store even, that I was truely impressed with. Anyway to your question, the buck striders are great for edc and very tough. Good bang for the buck. The frn handled ones modled after the SMF are ok, But spend alittle more and get the G-10 ATS34 880, or the tanto, I forget the model number. Those are built like a tank, and hold an egde forever. I don't own one but my buddy who does construction, and used it every day has it. I play with it all the time. He's had it and used it on the job for a few years, beat the crap out of it and it keeps coming back for more. Great knife. A tank.
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2004
- Messages
- 971
I've no problems. In fact I loved mine but I have 2 up for trade on the Trade forums. Good solid knife IMO.
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2001
- Messages
- 18,423
I took this photo when this topic came up awhile back, not sure how this linerlock could be ever described as "thin".
It actually takes a great deal of pressure to release it, and it's been spine whaked against wood and a metal ammo can with a cloth over it to prevent scratches, and the lock didn't so much a blink.
It actually takes a great deal of pressure to release it, and it's been spine whaked against wood and a metal ammo can with a cloth over it to prevent scratches, and the lock didn't so much a blink.
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2006
- Messages
- 1,822
Had one, loved it, beat on it a some, no problems at all, wish I didn't trade it. I agree with those that endorse the 880 and the 881 series. The 881 is one tough little S.O.B.!
Matador-
Yup, they're made in Idaho. It was a quality comparison.
My perception of a thin liner is when it measures at less than 1/3 blade thickness (the SnG is two thirds blade thickness.) I didn't spinewhack it at first - it slipped under hand pressure.
So did the second one. If you have a good one, that's a good thing, but I have more reliable chinese made knives, like the Kershaw Vapor II.
So I apologize to the chinese makers.
My perception of a thin liner is when it measures at less than 1/3 blade thickness (the SnG is two thirds blade thickness.) I didn't spinewhack it at first - it slipped under hand pressure.
So did the second one. If you have a good one, that's a good thing, but I have more reliable chinese made knives, like the Kershaw Vapor II.
So I apologize to the chinese makers.
Funny how a frame lock and liner lock are the same - just like a back lock or mid lock.
Frame locks are generally thicker because they also are the handle. Liner locks are just that, a thin liner to stiffen up a flexible scale. The makers don't want a thick handle, so the liner is left as-is to deal with it.
Which is why liner locks in general deal with a poor reputation. They can and do work well, but not as good as a thicker frame lock. Thick liner locks don't have the problem, either.
The thin liner lock on my Buck is stainless and doesn't have enough surface area to deliver friction on the ramp. It has a short swing because it's not bent at the cutout, just the last half of it's length. This makes for a short arc, and the blade ramp just pushes it aside, not jamming on the liner edge.
I've got good liner locks from others, I just keep this one as an example of what not to do making liner locks. It's wrong in so many ways, and all American.
Frame locks are generally thicker because they also are the handle. Liner locks are just that, a thin liner to stiffen up a flexible scale. The makers don't want a thick handle, so the liner is left as-is to deal with it.
Which is why liner locks in general deal with a poor reputation. They can and do work well, but not as good as a thicker frame lock. Thick liner locks don't have the problem, either.
The thin liner lock on my Buck is stainless and doesn't have enough surface area to deliver friction on the ramp. It has a short swing because it's not bent at the cutout, just the last half of it's length. This makes for a short arc, and the blade ramp just pushes it aside, not jamming on the liner edge.
I've got good liner locks from others, I just keep this one as an example of what not to do making liner locks. It's wrong in so many ways, and all American.
I think the bottom line is how well the geometry is between the blade ramp and the liner. From what I've read, even a thin liner (.050") can provide enough support if the geometry is correct. A thicker liner without the correct angles will fail quicker than a thinner ll with the correct angles. It has also been my experience that a short bend in the liner makes for a stiffer lock. Now put it altogether; correct geometry, thick liner, and a stiff lock and you will have a knife that will stand up to some stress, and that knife for me is my Strider AR!!:thumbup:
TLC, is that picture of the G-10/ATS34 model?
TLC, is that picture of the G-10/ATS34 model?
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- Apr 20, 2001
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