Buffer attachment for drill/angle grinder

Alex Topfer

Alex Topfer

Joined
May 1, 2019
Messages
718
Hi
Is it worth getting a buffing attachment for my hand drill or angle grinder? Probably the angle grinder as it's more powerful.
I don't have a buffing wheel for my grinder, and from my reading i don't think i can set one up safely (no pedestal, bench isn't in a great spot for rebounding blades). If i have a buffing pad on the angle grinder I can use it in the back yard with the blade clamped to something. It seems like it gets me some of the capacity without causing safety problems.
I know it's not an ideal solution, but I don't have the cash for that :P
 
Yeeeeeah... I'm with Stacy. That is a recipe for disaster.

Now a buffing wheel on a power drill is fine. I started out with that kind of setup before I got a dedicated buffer and it worked well enough.
 
I've heard of people using a drill press for this. I think there was a thread here not too long ago about this.
 
I was thinking of getting a drill attachment for buffing my handles and wood sheaths I make. I'd be interested in hearing what everyone uses for such work. My plan was trying micromesh for the highest possible polish and buff on a wheels with wax
 
drew1972 said:
Just get the one at harbor freight. It's cheap an works fine.
Click to expand...
No harbour freight down here :P
Maybe i can find an equivalent

@ Deadfall27 i've been doing it by hand and getting a nice satin, i figure a really high gloss isn't going to last when the knife actually gets used. haven't used stabilised timber much, so that might work differently.
 
Buy a dedicated buffer-preferrably 1750 RPM. If you get a 3600 RPM, use half-size wheels to keep surface speeds low.
Great deals on dental polishing lathes (buffers) can be found on Ebay.
Buffers are no more dangerous than any other knifemakers' power tool. Just learn to use it properly, and respect it.
And, yes you need a buffer, and you need to learn to use it. it's part of knifemaking.
 
Here is what I started with ... and I still have it somewhere. This can be built for chr=eap anywhere in the world.
I took a double shaft motor that was from an big air conditioner. IIRC, it was around 1/4 to 1/3 HP. It was also three speed (1750/1150/750). A smaller window unit has a similar motor but may only have one shaft ... which is fine. For what a hobbiest needs to buff handles, even 1/4 HP will work fine. The shafts were longer than needed so I carefully cut them to about 4" long. I got shaft adapters that fit so I could put wheels and buffs on. You want tapered screw type adapters for buffs. Use 4 to 6" bufs. bolt the motor on a stack of 6" pieces of 2X6 so it is raised up off the table by a good 6" or so. The buff needs lots of clearance below it for safety.

Note - The motor was open frame, but worked fine for years of shop use in buffing wood turnings and knife handles. I replaced the 1/4 HP setup with a 1/2 HP single speed open frame motor and still use that one right next to the grinder. I vacuum it out every coupe weeks, but it has never failed in 20 years of use.

Here is a similar motor for you to see what I used.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Marathon-M...487926?hash=item3fbfa95f76:g:JAMAAOSwRLZT7NvK

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Magnet...049422?hash=item43f8fba20e:g:Zt0AAOSwHMJYJfrZ
 
Thank you, this is looking simpler than i thought
So they don't need as much power as a grinder?
Building one of those sounds like a good idea. given my garage/workshop i think i would mount it on a pedestal with wheels, which solves the clearance below the buff.

with buffing handles, are you doing this only with stabilised wood, or with oil finished raw wood?
 
Mostly on stabilized. On woods that don't stabilize, I sand to 400 or finer and buff with matchless white. I don't put finishes on handles.
 
hmm, interesting. i've been doing linseed oil. i figure kitchen knives want some protection, since they do get exposed to water. maybe i should try leaving one of the ones i'm making for myself plain to see how they hold up
 
For kitchen knives, an oil sealer is fine. I use either stabilized woods or ones that have their own oils, like cocobolo, ebony, ziracote, rosewood, lignum vitae, etc.
 
I've been using various recycled eucalyptus species, I don't want to use rarer materials until I'm confident in what I'm doing. Although that said I like the idea of using recycled wood anyway :D
The ones I've been using lately (Jarrah, Tallowwood, and Ironbark) are all rated really highly on rot resistance
 
Angle grinder is WAY too fast. Variable speed hand drilling a vice? Works in a pinch for wood and such. Don't ask. :D Worn cork belts with gray and green compound work for steel.
 
I use a foredom bench lathe meant for jewelers. There are cheaper knock offs, but I don’t have experience with those.It’s small, so it easily can be put away when not in use (I have limited shop space for many large dedicated tools permanently mounted). I also “feel” safer with it because the power is lower than a big buffer and it has variable speed. It doesn’t have the oomph to be buffing metal, but I personally don’t care for mirror polished blades. It does a great job on wood and synthetic handle materials though. This stabilized maple burl was buffed on it:

mB6hsd5.jpg
 
I also use one of the little Foredoms. They actually can polish metal rather well with the proper compounds and buffs.
Polishing metal does not require a lot of power.
I have 6 buffers of various types in my shop.
 
Like Bill, I have many buffers for different tasks. They go from big 1HP units with 12" buffs to tiny ones with 2" buffs for buffing earrings. I use a 6" wheel at 3450/1725 RPM (1/4 and 1/16HP) for most jewelry, and a 6" buff at 1750 RPM for knife handles. It is 1/2HP. I will probably pull out the three speed 1/3HP unit when setting up the shop. I have an unique setup in mind to use several buffers in the same space.
In my dream shop I would have a whole wall of buffers. For the new shop ( longtime dream finally starting construction very soon) I have ten buffers, just not enough wall for all of them :) .
 
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