Buffer wheel size? rpm? surface feet p/min?

N

Nats

Joined
Jan 13, 2005
Messages
54
Looking to get into the dangerous game of buffing blades *shudder*.

Just wanted to make sure I was set up properly. I ran a search and came up with a wide variety of combinations of speeds and wheel sizes. I ran across an old post describing how to calculate surface speed.

Buffer RPM is only part of the successful buffing formula.

Steel polishes best when the surface speed of the buff is at least 5000 Surface feet per minute.

Surface feet are calculalted by taking the circumference of the buff in feet and multiplying it by the buffer RPM.

A 3450 RPM buffer with a 6" diameter wheel will give you the proper speed to buff with.
Click to expand...

Of course my main concern is safety and I don't want to be going to fast (or to slow).

My set up is roughly the same as described in the quotes... 3500 rpm, 6"x1/2" wheel (Med. Felt w/Veritas® Honing Compound).

3.14 x 6" dia = 18.84"
18.84" / 12" = 1.57'
1.57' x 3500 rpm = 5495 Surface feet per minute

If my math is right (it's been a long time since grade 4 math :rolleyes: ) then I should be with in the realm of acceptable buffing limits. Yes? No?

Just wanted to check to see if I was in the safety zone and see if this was a common setup.

Thanks.
Nats
 
Math seems fine.The larger the wheel,the higher the SFM.The main advantage to larger wheels is the larger work window they allow.There is a very exact area on the wheel surface that can be safely used.Go out of this area and your buffer becomes a missile launching device.Smaller wheels carry lower energy on the surface,and in my opinion,give a false sense of safety.The proper safety gear for buffing is a chain mail tunic with a Kevlar space helmet.Titanium gloves would be nice,too.It is most important that the buffer be mounted on a pedestal,NOT ON A COUNTER TOP,and be at least 3' from the wall.A piece of chain link fence hanging a couple of feet behind the buffer can slow down knives that get snagged.You mentioned felt wheels and honing compound.That is not the same as buffing,it is basically fine grinding.Be careful you don't burn the blade.Felt and fine abrasives build heat fast.I like 10-12" muslin buffing wheels.multi-speed pulleys on the arbor allow polishing softer materials at slower speeds.Be very careful!!!
Stacy
 
I read the same descriptions you did, but also a lot of posts on this forum before I bought my Baldor. FWIW, I chose an 8" 1800RPM and I'm glad I did. It works better than my old 3600 did. It has lots of other advantages like power and clearance but the speed is significant. I've used both now and since I sell buffers, I could have just about anything I wanted. I'm happy with what I have.

I have a related shop tip for anyone who is interested. I launched a few blades when I was starting out. One of them actually bounced off the bench and imbedded in the ceiling - point first! On a visit to Ontario some years back, Jim Downie was nice enough to give me a shop tour, and one of the neatest items was related to buffing. His was nicer that what I've put together but the idea is the same. I use a scrap of MDF board (the stuff they make cheap moulding out of) - but any scrap of wood would do. Make it a little larger (~ 1/2" all round) than your whole knife and drill a couple holes to match your tang's pin holes. Using a couple bolts and wing nuts, bolt your blade to the wood scrap. I swear, 'grabbing' by the wheel is reduced 95%+

I haven't even come close to launching a blade since starting to buff this way, and my wife uses the same system with the same results. Even if one did get launched, I would suggest that a launched board with a knife bolted to it is WAY safer than a launched blade.

Try it! For the second side, you may want to protect the finished side with some masking tape.

If you agree it's safer, pass it on to at least one other person. Buffing doesn't have to be the most dangerous job in the shop - and people don't have to get hurt doing it.

Rob!
 
Great idea Rob!.We jewelers do the same thing in miniature when buffing small flat charms.A+ for ingenuity.
Stacy
 
Thanks Stacy



It's made a big difference for me, not only in safety but also in the results I get from my buffing. A scratch disappears better if it's 'attacked' from different angles, and this way, at least with the 1/8 - 3/16 blades I've been working on, I can even buff edge up and around tight ricasso area corners. I haven't quite figured out how to do it with handles attached yet but the bare blade, mirror finish work is 90% of the buffing job.
 
It is only 45 minutes from Hamilton to my shop in Mississauga, drop around some time and I can show you what I use with considerable success.
Call me 905 670 0200 anytime.
 
Hi nats .
I dont know much about rpm speed or wheel size but tegs tools on barton and otawa have good selection of compounds and wheels of various size.
the staff there are helpfull. If you have not been to george's shop "do not passup the invite" the wealth of knowledge and experience is awsome.
The shop tour is great. GOOD LUCK.
 
I'm another one that doesnt know much about buffer speed's. I was told early on (dont remember who told me) to use a 1725 rpm motor with a 8" or 10" wheel, I was also told to always have the wheel spinning away from me (the top of the wheel) I'm pretty sure this has saved me some pain over the years but again, I dont really understand how all these rules help but it seems to work. Oh, I also heard the pedistal thing too, but until last week i've had mine mounted on the end of a work bench, i also had it mounted right in fornt of a window for the last 4 years. I cant beleive that window is still in on piece.
 
Les,are you saying that the top of the wheel is rotating AWAY from you? If so unplug the motor and cut the plug off (so no one else will ge hurt).All grinding and buffing should be done with the wheel surface going DOWNWARD (the top moves toward you).An upward rotating wheel will throw all the grit,and anything that catches ,in your face or stomach.It would also be quite dificult to polish on a wheel running that direction.You would have to polish on the top of the wheel.
 
I will not unplug or cut off the plug on my buffer. If you come into my shop and turn on my buffer, i may cut your hand off.
This is how i was told to set it up by the supplier i bought my 1st wheels from, i'm not sure if it was TKS or Koval it doesnt matter. I was told it was dangerous to have the wheel spinning toward me. If you feel that is wrong feel free to clue me in but I dont need your smarta$$ comments.

BTW: Everything that has been thrown out of my hand has been thrown straight back.
 
Relax Les.I'm just yanking your chain.I have never heard of a buffer running that way.You would have to buff on the top of the wheel I guess.I have been buffing professionally for over 30 years now and have never seen a buffer set up that way.I don't know for sure,but I would suspect OSHA would not allow a buffer set up that way in a commercial shop.I don't know Jim at TKS personally,but Mick or Troy at Koval have never said anything to me like that.
Sorry to ruffle your feathers,no insult intended.
Stacy
 
Thanks for the replies everyone.

Darrin - Thanks for the heads up on Tegs ;)

Mr. Tichbourne - Thanks again for the invite. A while back you had offered a bunch of the guys in the knife forum over at CGN'z a tour but we never really got it together to go. I should be working in Mississauga next week so I'll give a ring if I can swing by. Thanks again. Nats.
 
I have seen people buffing knives with the buffer running with the top of the wheel going away but it seems dangerous because you cannot see the contact point.

The metal polishing trade always uses the buffer with the front of the wheel turning towards the floor and the operator stands in front of the wheel. Some operations have a guard installed behind the wheel, not quite touching it, to catch anything that gets caught and tries to come around the wheel back toward the operator.

Nats anytime you have time free.
 
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