Buffing/Polishing Wheels?

DanF

DanF

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Apr 17, 2017
Messages
1,409
I broke down a bought a benchtop buffer (8”), and was wondering what wheels those that use them like and your break in process for new ones.
The buffing wheel that came with it is sewn cotton (I think), and very much out of round. Not a fun time with that one.
Also do you prefer a benchtop mount or pedestal?
Thanks
 
I only use my buffer, benchtop, for handles and kydex. It does work on every build.
I use 10" loosefold cotton mops (they stay cooler) at around 1400 rpm. One wheel with brown tripoli for kydex edges. One wheel with Menzerna GW16 for micarta and G10 (and wood if I ever start using that). No break in.
I also run a separate hard felt wheel on another motor (VFD), for honing edges which is very usefull.
 
DanF said:
I broke down a bought a benchtop buffer (8”), and was wondering what wheels those that use them like and your break in process for new ones.
The buffing wheel that came with it is sewn cotton (I think), and very much out of round. Not a fun time with that one.
Also do you prefer a benchtop mount or pedestal?
Thanks
Click to expand...
This might be a dumb question, but is the wheel centered on the shaft? My wheels have something like a 1" hole, even though the buffer shaft is only something like 1/2". There's a bushing/adapter that sandwiches on each side of the buff to help keep things centered, but it can be tricky to position while tightening the arbor nut sometimes.
 
Thanks for the input guys, and I’ll give the hole /shaft diameter a closer look tomorrow.
 
i like the concentric sewn white cloth wheels. the spiral ones sometimes keep becoming unstitched and get too floppy.. with the concentric sewn you can remove as many circles of stitching it requires to me the buff as soft as you want. u usually leave about a half inch unsewn. p prefer banch mount, if the pedestal is not bolted to the floor, the buffer may move and pull itself toward you.
 
Use a pedestal. Preferably, a knife buffer should have long shafts to move the wheels far from the motor. 24" end to end is probably the norm. The buffer should not be within 24" of any counter surface or wall ... 36" is even better. A padded surface behind the grinder is also wise.

A variable speed buffer is like a variable speed grinder. You don't know how good it is until you use one and realize the advantage. Single speed buffers come in 1750RPM and 3500RPM. Use the lower speed ones for knife work if that is all you will have.

Use a softer white wheel. Cotton or linen for fine. Muslin works for coarser grit polishes. Concentric stitching is what I use for most buffing. I use fine loose linen buffs for final polish on buffalo horn and ivory. These are 6" buffs to keep the surface speed down and avoid burning the handles.

Use a shaft adapter sleeve if the wheel has a different size hole that the shaft. Use large diameter flange washers or proper flanges on both sides of the wheels. 3" flanges are the most common size.

Wheel size depends mostly on the buffer size, but 10-12" wheels work best. 6" is a minimum.

Lastly - read every post you can pull up with the Custom Search Engine on buffers and buffing knives. It will scare you a bit, but the information is needed.
 
Spent some time with this earlier today, it’s going back where it came from. Too many serious flaws in every part/area of it to waste time with (I love tinkering with new things but this is hopeless).
The shaft and arbor hole diameters matched but the hole was drilled at a very wrong angle to the 90 degrees needed and was off center.

Appreciate all the help, and yeah, MUCH respect for this tool and safety!
 
I use a pedestal shortened to 28" so I can sit with my elbows on my knees. Those knees aren't what they used to be.
 
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