Buffing wheels and compound

Phil705

Phil705

Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
360
In the five years that I have been making knives (lately some of them actually cut), I realize that I may be using equipment and accessories more out of habit than informed decision making. I've been using green chrome, and pink scratchless with sewn muslin wheels, and white for stroping.

I was going to order some more buffing wheels, and said to myself, "Self, what buffing wheel works best for which compound? And speaking of compound, which is best for what?"


Since Self doesn't know why he does stuff, could some else help?
 
Phil, Your Self and my ole Self are in the same boat it sounds like. But ,I can say that when I go to the buffer, It is always sewn muslin wheels, because that's all that I have. I just need to find a way to clean them.
Jerry
 
I'm not a very advanced buffer. I don't make many blades with a buffed finish. Most of the buffing I do of metal is just fittings, stainless brass and nickel silver.

I used to start buffing this type of stuff with black rough compound, then would move to green chrome or red rouge. Now I start with a green coloring compound from McMaster Carr.
(Buffing Bar Steel Coloring, Green, 8" L X 3" W X 2" H Bar Steel and stainless steel. #47955A71 $13.52)
It takes 600 grit sanding scratches off quickly and leaves a very pretty near-total mirror on fittings metals. Often I just leave it at that, or if I want a total mirror, pink scratchless will finish it off quickly. I just use a spiral sewn linen wheel for this stuff.

One thing I think helps with getting an even color with buffing is to keep your wheels put away when not in use. Though they may not be lying around the bench getting gritty, the grit in the air from grinding can contaminate them. My dedicated buffers have this problem, as they are in the grinding room.

I have a filing cabinet I keep buffs in when not on a machine, they go into separate file folders so they stay clean and are easy to find. Now that I've built a buffing tooling arm for my grinder, the dedicated buffing machines are leaving the room to make room for another grinder. The quick-change nature of my new buffing arm will enable me to easily keep all of my buffs in the cabinet and out of grit's way.
 
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I forget the guys name, but it was a basic knifemaking DVD.. he had his wife make him some little "cozies" for going over his buffer wheels, one for each side of the buffer. They were to keep his wheels clean, and free from airborne dust etc. Seems like a good idea, but I don't have a buffer so I haven't tried it.
 
I've used ziplock baggies for the same thing. Just stick em over the buffs. Remove when ready to use.
 
I use Green Chrome and White compounds on yellow treated loose buffs.

These two combos do everything on a knife: blade, stainless guard, and handle material.


Take care

Charles
 
I agree with Charles; but I also use a sewn yellow treated buff with grey compound from K&G for any stubborn areas.
 
plastic store bags are quick, easy and free to cover your wheels...

personally, I have red, green and white for whatever reason I always finish with the green... I'm not sure its even made for buffing :) I use it on my strop belt when sharpening...
 
I have heard the little plastic shower caps you get from a hotel work well to protect the wheels from the grinder grit. I only buff handles, so I cant help you with the rouge and compound.
 
I have only used green and pink scratchless and only for handle materials. I found that the green left a green haze on my black G-10. Gave it a nice finish, but the haze was annoying. I have since switched to pink scratchless for both G-10 and stabilized wood. Works quite well :thumbup:
 
I use the white stuff, I can't remember what it is called. For Micarta or G10, I sand to about 4 or 600, then buff with the white stuff. I got it from Pop's.
 
Thanks everyone who replied. I will use the zip locks to protect the wheels, as I suspect my old ones have been contaminated. Ordered some new wheels and compound today.
 
I use the green compound from pops on handles and guards and such . I also like the pink compound on more porous type material. On my buffer I just cover with a heavy plastic bag . I learned the grinding dust problem the hard way so now I keep it covered.
 
I use three compounds, scratchless pink, white and green chrome rouge. I use the zam green and and white fabuluster. Seem to be the best I have found to date. The white and pink for handles. Metal GCR followed by the white fabuluster
 
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