Horsewright
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2011
- Messages
- 11,576
Our friend vilepossum asked me to build him a belt. Here are a few pictures from the process. Building a belt is a pretty strightforward deal. These pics will give you an idea of kinda how I go about it.
This is a side of Wicket and Craig English Bridle leather. Bridle leather is veg tan that has been treated at the tannery with extra tallows, waxes and oils. But it doesn't feel "greasy or oily" like some latigoes can. Like the name implies its designed for horse tack / equipment, designed to resist sweat and moisture. It is also an excellent leather for high end leather goods and you'll see it used on $2,000 briefcases etc. It makes a great belt. English Bridle leather is a premium leather that carries a premium pricetag. But look at that side! Thats what a premium side of leather should look like.
My first step was to cut a straight edge along the spine. This old guy will jump up on that workbench and kneeling over the leather I will cut the straight edge using a roller knife against a 48" ruler. This is a really a two person job, Nichole will help hold down the straight edge as I cut. This side was long enough it took 3 postionings of the straight edge to get the whole spine cut. I'd already cut a few lining pieces off of this side for Nichole's headstalls. Thats what those strips are on the bench behind the side.
I will post pics of the entire process but if you havn't followed one of my posts before, just letting ya know, I have to post a pic and then edit that post to add more pics. Just how my puter/tablet interacts here. So if you see this post and there's not much come back in a little bit there wil be more. Just takes a little bit of time that way. But if I don't whoosh everthing gone into never never land.
Starting to cut leather:
This little wooden strap cutter works great and should be on the Frugal tools list. I've had the regular draw gauge type strap cutters. Some of them very, very expensive. This little $15-$20 deal knocks their socks off. Don't even know where the others are anymore. The secret to using these tools is to pull the piece you're cutting not the whole side. I ALWAYS measure hardware before cutting leather. This project was a perfect example of why. A 1.5" buckle set was purchased for this project. The buckle measured a true 1.5" so a 1.5" belt strap would of worked for the buckle but it would NOT go through the metal keeper except at an angle. We needed a strap a hair under 1.5" for this belt. It should be noted too, this strap cutter is great at cutting straps, not very good at cutting hairs off of an existing strap. Meausre your hardware.
Here is the two straps cut and buckle set for this project. The belt is a hair under 1.5" as mentioned and the lining (on the right) is 1.75". I havn't made any unlined belts in many many years. The buckle set is from Weaver and is solid cast brass.
Some of the tools we'll be using. An Osborne English Strap Point punch in 2" size, a 1" Osborne bag punch, my makers mark, a Barry King edger in #2 and a stitching groover.
This is a side of Wicket and Craig English Bridle leather. Bridle leather is veg tan that has been treated at the tannery with extra tallows, waxes and oils. But it doesn't feel "greasy or oily" like some latigoes can. Like the name implies its designed for horse tack / equipment, designed to resist sweat and moisture. It is also an excellent leather for high end leather goods and you'll see it used on $2,000 briefcases etc. It makes a great belt. English Bridle leather is a premium leather that carries a premium pricetag. But look at that side! Thats what a premium side of leather should look like.
My first step was to cut a straight edge along the spine. This old guy will jump up on that workbench and kneeling over the leather I will cut the straight edge using a roller knife against a 48" ruler. This is a really a two person job, Nichole will help hold down the straight edge as I cut. This side was long enough it took 3 postionings of the straight edge to get the whole spine cut. I'd already cut a few lining pieces off of this side for Nichole's headstalls. Thats what those strips are on the bench behind the side.
I will post pics of the entire process but if you havn't followed one of my posts before, just letting ya know, I have to post a pic and then edit that post to add more pics. Just how my puter/tablet interacts here. So if you see this post and there's not much come back in a little bit there wil be more. Just takes a little bit of time that way. But if I don't whoosh everthing gone into never never land.
Starting to cut leather:
This little wooden strap cutter works great and should be on the Frugal tools list. I've had the regular draw gauge type strap cutters. Some of them very, very expensive. This little $15-$20 deal knocks their socks off. Don't even know where the others are anymore. The secret to using these tools is to pull the piece you're cutting not the whole side. I ALWAYS measure hardware before cutting leather. This project was a perfect example of why. A 1.5" buckle set was purchased for this project. The buckle measured a true 1.5" so a 1.5" belt strap would of worked for the buckle but it would NOT go through the metal keeper except at an angle. We needed a strap a hair under 1.5" for this belt. It should be noted too, this strap cutter is great at cutting straps, not very good at cutting hairs off of an existing strap. Meausre your hardware.
Here is the two straps cut and buckle set for this project. The belt is a hair under 1.5" as mentioned and the lining (on the right) is 1.75". I havn't made any unlined belts in many many years. The buckle set is from Weaver and is solid cast brass.
Some of the tools we'll be using. An Osborne English Strap Point punch in 2" size, a 1" Osborne bag punch, my makers mark, a Barry King edger in #2 and a stitching groover.
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