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- Mar 29, 2007
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This may not be the ideal sheath howto, as this is the ONLY sheath type that isn't waterformed, and that's a pretty crucial part of the pouch style sheath (including explorer models)
However, it's what I'm working on today, and the only sheath sierra doesn't do. So here goes.
The Scratchard knife needs a sheath with solid, but adjustable, retention. A retention strap over the guard works. Since I dislike metal going through the sheath body (rot) for various reasons (rot) and avoid it as much as possible (rot)- 2 small straps will be added to the sheath to carry the snaps.
More straps are needed to carry the belt hanger and supply various other mounting options.
As the sheath also needs to have some resistance to impact generated push-through, the welt and stitching needs to support the guards.
All this leads to a flat, non waterformed, complicated sheath.
step one is to cut out the sheath body elements. Tracing the blade and guard shape provides the welt cut:
And the two - mirror imaged!- body sections. I cut it pretty close on this one since I been doing it a while, I'd add a good quarter inch or so all around if I was less experienced.
Next step is to glue the welt (note the S marks on the pattern pieces, those indicated the spine side. so everything matches)- glue the welt rough side DOWN, because when the glue dries, you'll need to do some work.
So once the glue is dry, you get out your stitch marking wheel- because you are never good enough to skip having one- and mark where you will want the inside line of stitches. you have to do this now, because the welt is going to be covered soon. Mark, and use an awl to make holes all the way through the leather.
Flip over, and use a channel grooving tool to make stitching grooves, following the lines made by the holes. This will, incidentally, erase the holes.
Channels are important as they reduce the wear on the stitching dramatically.
Now, poke the holes again. I told you this was a complicated sheath.
But you have to poke those holes, because you will need to see the stitching holes on the outside after you glue the other body piece on as so- and yes, a clean HF 15 pound anvil is in fact, useful for something! :
However, it's what I'm working on today, and the only sheath sierra doesn't do. So here goes.
The Scratchard knife needs a sheath with solid, but adjustable, retention. A retention strap over the guard works. Since I dislike metal going through the sheath body (rot) for various reasons (rot) and avoid it as much as possible (rot)- 2 small straps will be added to the sheath to carry the snaps.
More straps are needed to carry the belt hanger and supply various other mounting options.
As the sheath also needs to have some resistance to impact generated push-through, the welt and stitching needs to support the guards.
All this leads to a flat, non waterformed, complicated sheath.
step one is to cut out the sheath body elements. Tracing the blade and guard shape provides the welt cut:
And the two - mirror imaged!- body sections. I cut it pretty close on this one since I been doing it a while, I'd add a good quarter inch or so all around if I was less experienced.
Next step is to glue the welt (note the S marks on the pattern pieces, those indicated the spine side. so everything matches)- glue the welt rough side DOWN, because when the glue dries, you'll need to do some work.
So once the glue is dry, you get out your stitch marking wheel- because you are never good enough to skip having one- and mark where you will want the inside line of stitches. you have to do this now, because the welt is going to be covered soon. Mark, and use an awl to make holes all the way through the leather.
Flip over, and use a channel grooving tool to make stitching grooves, following the lines made by the holes. This will, incidentally, erase the holes.
Channels are important as they reduce the wear on the stitching dramatically.
Now, poke the holes again. I told you this was a complicated sheath.
But you have to poke those holes, because you will need to see the stitching holes on the outside after you glue the other body piece on as so- and yes, a clean HF 15 pound anvil is in fact, useful for something! :