Building the scratchard sheath

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Mar 29, 2007
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This may not be the ideal sheath howto, as this is the ONLY sheath type that isn't waterformed, and that's a pretty crucial part of the pouch style sheath (including explorer models)

However, it's what I'm working on today, and the only sheath sierra doesn't do. So here goes.


The Scratchard knife needs a sheath with solid, but adjustable, retention. A retention strap over the guard works. Since I dislike metal going through the sheath body (rot) for various reasons (rot) and avoid it as much as possible (rot)- 2 small straps will be added to the sheath to carry the snaps.

More straps are needed to carry the belt hanger and supply various other mounting options.

As the sheath also needs to have some resistance to impact generated push-through, the welt and stitching needs to support the guards.

All this leads to a flat, non waterformed, complicated sheath.


step one is to cut out the sheath body elements. Tracing the blade and guard shape provides the welt cut:

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And the two - mirror imaged!- body sections. I cut it pretty close on this one since I been doing it a while, I'd add a good quarter inch or so all around if I was less experienced.

Next step is to glue the welt (note the S marks on the pattern pieces, those indicated the spine side. so everything matches)- glue the welt rough side DOWN, because when the glue dries, you'll need to do some work.


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So once the glue is dry, you get out your stitch marking wheel- because you are never good enough to skip having one- and mark where you will want the inside line of stitches. you have to do this now, because the welt is going to be covered soon. Mark, and use an awl to make holes all the way through the leather.

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Flip over, and use a channel grooving tool to make stitching grooves, following the lines made by the holes. This will, incidentally, erase the holes.

Channels are important as they reduce the wear on the stitching dramatically.

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Now, poke the holes again. I told you this was a complicated sheath.


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But you have to poke those holes, because you will need to see the stitching holes on the outside after you glue the other body piece on as so- and yes, a clean HF 15 pound anvil is in fact, useful for something! :

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Now that the glue is dry, you have to punch the awl holes all the way through, marking the final body piece so you can groove it:

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The handle scales require a cutout at the mouth, and some trimming on the edges, and we're ready to stitch the inner line:


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Double needle stitching. Harness stitching, baseball stitching. Call it what you will, it's the only way to go for a really durable seam, as each hole has 2 independent stitches going through it and it won't unravel before you can fix it if a thread breaks or gets cut



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With the inside stitching complete:

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and the outside edges trimmed to where I want them, it's time to use the other channel groover and stitch marking wheel:


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Stitch marking wheels are essential, but they lack a little finesse in sharper curves and making everything line up at the bottom (or ends)

So I have this huge heavy forged A6 awl I use for marking. NOT for punching holes, but it's solid enough that making deep marks is easy (I must have 2 dozen awls at this point, yall are just seeing the ones I use most)



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Then, back to the horse and stitch up the outisde, punch the two bottom leg cord holes. And bevel the edges.



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Okay, details. There's a lot of space between the stitching rows. Partially this is because the sheath need to be wide enough for a 1.5 or so inch belt hanger strap. But the main reason is to allow field modifications and repairs. There's plenty of room in between the stitches for user-mod holes, staples for repair, whatever might be needed. This isn't a dress item, this is out in the stick in ashcanistan wear. One thing I loved about my early homemade leather sheaths on deployment was that I could do what I needed to do to suit what was happening, and the kydex stuff, as durable as it is, was locked in.

All the parts gathered for dye:


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Belt hanger, straps, everything- EXCEPT the retention strap, which can't be done up until after the mounting straps are on. So I'll dye that when I do touch up after trim.




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Next, the complicated strap bit.
 
Okay, the straps. I'm going to jump forward a step so you can see what I'm doing, then back up:


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Okay, to do the straps, you have to decide on design issues. I've done more and fewer straps, different widths- it really depends on what you are doing. For a Scratchard, here's some details:

1- top narrow straps are for the snaps only (though a handy user will probably make a flashlight or something clip on)

2: Main straps are one inch wide with one inch separation to best match MOLLE type gear.

3: straps on both sides for accessory mounting and reversibility of sheath. I know several right handers who carry a leftie sheath because that's how they draw. YOu also have to be able to go "both ways" for horizontal carry. And, I'm left handed anyway.

4: No stitches over the edges of the straps. I harp on this a lot, and it's caused some poorer than good feelings at times, but the one, single easiest way to destroy your sheath in the field is to have the straps stitched with the same thread as the welt seam and have the thread running over the corners so it will wear and tear. This is a big deal, whether using 25 pound linen, 50 pound poly, or 150 pound test mono. It's gonna wear and cut and break and if the strap isn't a separate seam, you'll lose the welt.

How you do it is up to you, I have 3 or 4 methods that I go back and forth on, but you want to use existing stitching holes, so one side has to go on first and get holes punched, then the other side goes on and repeat the other direction. Glue, nails, whatever. I have the best results with nails, though it's the slowest (teeeeeny brass tacks)


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Note the leather scraps- to help make sure the straps will take the straps. This is a very tight sheath right now and there's not going to be a lot of stretch. if things are looser, skip that and the belt hanger or belt will help add tightness.


once all the stitching is done, you trim the excess, bevel, and-


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Measure the snap retention strap:


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then touch up dye and let it sit for a few hours:



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It's all downhill from here.

but it looks a wee bit rough:

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As uncomplicated as it sounds, completely lacking in new ubertech, the answer is.... a brass rod and mink oil. Just mink oil, nothin but mink oil, and all mink oil.

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burnish those edges and rub the oil in nice and good.



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The snap can be reversed, or removed. New ones can be made for a thumb break or a front hold. The belt hanger is adjustable and removable. I prefer to tie it, but the chicago screws are popular. Clip on pouches can be clipped to the straps, as well. Horizontal carry is a snap, and pack strap mounting or whatnot.



Last step! clean the shop:

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Nice tutorial, great pics:thumbup: But you know what they say about people with a bench that organized :) :D
 
it hasn't looked that neat since the day I built it. But you have to do the quarterly cleaning or you lose .. knives and guns and arrows and stuff
 
Thanks buddy, that was great. I love your leather work bench. Glad to see I'm not the only one who reuses wool daubers.
 
Very cool Christof. Thanks for the tutorial.....

I love the way your leather spot is set up. I use a brass rod to burnish too, and am in total agreement about the stitching wheel, and the saddle stitch. A lock stitch just isnt durable enough IMO.....

Its really neat how there is sooo many differant ways to do leather.
 
nice -- I appreciate the thought process that going into that sheath.
thanks for the tutorial!
 
Really nice sheath! I would like to build one for my BK2 but I am new to leather working. What thickness or type of leather do you recommend and what size awl were you using to punch the sewing holes? thanks, and again, really nice work!
 
Generally, I'd suggest going with 7-8 or 8-9 ounce leather. There's variations for different sheaths and welt thicknesses, but either of those will work well all around.

The awl to start with is a standard osborne from tandy. As things progress you end up with a collection :)

Tandy currently has a sale flyer with a bunch of awl blades and handles on sale.

While you can use a padded vise at first for stitching instead of a horse, and a few other things will have to be practiced on and modified to suit, I highly recommend the "Art of Hand Sewing Leather" book by Al Stohlman. In fact, if you look on amazon for the Tandy Leather Hand Stitching Kit 11189-00 it'll have a fairly complete set of initial tools. If the marking wheel is too narrow you can sew every other hole (I do that with a 6 stitches per inch one sometimes, when the 4spi is too narrow)
 
Outstanding WIP photos. I always love seeing how a craftsman practices their art.

Is this one sold, by the way? I had been eying it up pretty closely, but with one on the way and one in the making, I figured I had already spent enough money on bush tools recently... Even with your absolutely spectacular MIL discount!

Thanks again for posting this!

Brad
 
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