Bushcraft? Now which grind?

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Ripcord 82

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Feb 15, 2019
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For the past week or so I have been trying to decide on a bushcraft knife and after watching all the videos and reading all the blogs,I still can't figure out which grind to go with.Now we seem to have a Saber grind,a full flat grind,scandi grind and a convex grind etc. etc. Thought I had it nailed from watching one youtuber who said this is my favorite knife and grind,only to see more of his videos and he had a best knife and a different best grind every week.
So for you those who are into a good camp knife or bushcraft knife,what are your opinions? Two companies I have been looking at are LT Wright and Battle Horse,though Battle Horse doesn't seem to be available on any of the selling sights.I do know there maybe others out there that make nice knives for such activities and I am open to them as well,as long as they are USA made.
 
Congratulations on your decision to begin and and welcome to the forums. Any of those grinds will provide a suitable working edge, each is generally considered to excel at certain tasks. Scandi for woodworking, convex for chopping, full flat for food/fire prep, sabre for chopping and batoning. Edges can always be changed or reground; steel choice, handle ergonomics and a reputable company are arguably more important. Good luck on you quest, and most of all: Enjoy!
Some of my favorite camp knives are; Ontario tak and Ranger rd6; Becker bk5, 7, and 9.
 
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I recommend buying a cheap flat ground knife, 2 Moras and an inexpensive course diamond stone to scrub the Mora into a a convex.

Spend a year making shavings, feather sticks and batoning out kindling and use the knives side by each.

I've found that preference on grinds for making feathers is closely tied to a persons preference and natural tendency when making the cut.

The best grind for you is the best grind for YOU, not me.
 
I think you already have some great advice above.

I'll add a few comments of my preferences.

  1. Carry more than one knife, get different geometries
  2. The only thinf scnadi grind is better at is woodworking/carving, but it's noticably better
  3. Handle shape is as important as the blade. If you use it a lot, the handle will become more important than the one on your EDC knife.
  4. I prefer saber grinds, especially high saber grinds. Sometimes this is also called a flat grind.
  5. Get sonething cheap and try it out. Find what you like and don't like. Even hollow grinds, like most buck knives, can be used. Start learning the craft with what you have and on the cheap.
  6. Nothing wrong with fancy or noce knives, so I wouldn't discourage that but for starting out I would rsther have 3 different knoves to trial than one expensive knife that I may or may not like after a few years of use.
If you're in SE Michigan or Northern OH, I have a lot you could look at and try out. I'm sure there are other forum members that may offer the same thing. Trying a knife is the best way to know if it's for you. I bought a lot of used knoves before finding what I really liked.

My favorite bushcraft knife is LT Wright mark 2 in a high saber grind, as a single person's preference and a data point. I rarely only carry one knife, even if the 2nd or 3rd is a folder and a victorinox or a big fixed blade or machete.
 
Welcome to the forums ...

And as others touched on and as you've seen in videos ... there truely isn't one best grind or knife for every task or everyone ...

I can tell you that you have found two great brands in LT Wright and Blind Horse Knives ... buy direct from Blind Horse if that's what you want ...

I think we all find a grind or knife that works for us personally ... and even then we like another knife/grind for some chores ...

for me I always have at least two knives if I'm in the woods ... if I'm camping you can make it at least three ...

I'm not big on scandi grinds (not saying they don't work) ... they just aren't what I prefer ... that said they are good for woodcraft and easier to sharpen ... and a Mora for very little money you can get a scandi grind and try it out ...

full flat grind is my preference for most tasks and IMHO can do anything a scandi can and a bit more ...

Convex is a strong blade grind ... great for choppers and batoning wood as it splits it better and sticks much less than a scandi or full flat grind doing those tasks ...

a sabre grind can be a combination of grinds with the high grind and flats and the edge may be a convex or hollow etc ... so the edge grind is the part that matters on sabre grinds ... or at least high sabre grinds ...

as bikerector bikerector said the handle is as important as the grind if not more so ... any good sharp blade can be used for most tasks ... but if it's not comfortable in your hand it makes every job tough ...

after that long winded post ... I would say get a Mora scandi grind less than $20.00 and try it out ... I really like LT Wright knives ... they have several that would make great camp/hiking knives ...

if you have a knife store near you (which many of us don't) go handle some ... if not LT Wright's Bushcrafter or Genesis have neutral handles that can work for many ... their GNS and Outback are my favorites ...

but buying some less expensive knives ... I would say try scandi ... convex ... and full flat ... the sabre grind can be misleading so to start I'd try the three and see what you like and you'll learn what kind of handles work and are comfortable to you.
 
Hmmm, other than Opinel, what would be a really cheap knife with a convex grind? Low-buck scandi and FFG are easy to come up with: Mora and Green River fish knife just to name two.
 
Henry Beige said:
Hmmm, other than Opinel, what would be a really cheap knife with a convex grind? Low-buck scandi and FFG are easy to come up with: Mora and Green River fish knife just to name two.
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I don't know of any, which is why I suggesting a Mora and a course diamond stone. One could argue that it's just too much of a hassle, which is a very good point. But on the other hand, if it's too much of a hassle to scrub down a Mora and to convex it, it might be an indication that a convex blade is too much of a hassle to maintain.

FortyTwoBlades FortyTwoBlades has an upgrade service in which he'll flatten a Mora Companion. Perhaps he could get a slack belt and offer convexed Companions or Companion HDs as well?
 
pinnah said:
I don't know of any, which is why I suggesting a Mora and a course diamond stone. One could argue that it's just too much of a hassle, which is a very good point. But on the other hand, if it's too much of a hassle to scrub down a Mora and to convex it, it might be an indication that a convex blade is too much of a hassle to maintain.

FortyTwoBlades FortyTwoBlades has an upgrade service in which he'll flatten a Mora Companion. Perhaps he could get a slack belt and offer convexed Companions or Companion HDs as well?
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I could do that, but the overall geometry would be thicker than the FFG. I'd just facet-grind it to get it to near-net shape and then blend in the facets on the slack belt portion of my grinder.
 
High saber with a good strong tip and comfortable handle ergos will be good at most tasks. 4"-5" blade. Buy the best steel you can afford. Full flat for a smaller EDC.

Although not a traditional design, a Guardian 4 is my outdoor/camp/craft fixed blade. If it ever needed replacement, another one just like it from Brad.
 
As long as the edge is relatively thin, all of them work. In fact mora uses a slightly hollow low saber grind and not a true “scandi” and that works really well too. :D Thick edges are for choppers and even then they don’t need to be too thick.

Get a knife that is lightweight, has a thin edge and a comfy handle. Like a mora. ;) I’ve had all kinds of fancy production and custom fixed blades. I don’t use any of them anymore except for one chopper but even that I use rarely.


Edit: I forgot to say, stay away from thick spined “scandis.” Over 3/32” thick and they become woodworking only knives.
 
I appreciate all the input and recommendations. Since reviewing your posts I have been eyeballing the L.T. Wright GNS in a saber grind. I sort of wish it came in full flat or convex.But I think I would prefer the saber over the scandi grind. Is the saber grind on the GNS considered a high saber? The specs really don't say.I don't want a saber to be to close to what a scandi would be.Just window shopping right now as I don't have a solid pick yet but you guys are helping me to narrow it down.Oh yes,one other little detail,if you will. I think I would prefer O1 over the A2 as well.I understand that the carbides are big on the A2 and can possible tear out if the edge is to acute whereas O1 can take a more acute angle an get sharper.Of course this is just some of what I read.
 
Ripcord 82 said:
I appreciate all the input and recommendations. Since reviewing your posts I have been eyeballing the L.T. Wright GNS in a saber grind. I sort of wish it came in full flat or convex.But I think I would prefer the saber over the scandi grind. Is the saber grind on the GNS considered a high saber? The specs really don't say.I don't want a saber to be to close to what a scandi would be.Just window shopping right now as I don't have a solid pick yet but you guys are helping me to narrow it down.Oh yes,one other little detail,if you will. I think I would prefer O1 over the A2 as well.I understand that the carbides are big on the A2 and can possible tear out if the edge is to acute whereas O1 can take a more acute angle an get sharper.Of course this is just some of what I read.
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Convex you say... DLT has several convex GNS in 3v. :D There were several floating around in AEB-L as well at one point. As far as I know, you can't get the convex in A2, however. So, depends on what you value more, blade steel or blade shape.

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Edit: Found one in AEB-L...
 
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Ripcord 82 said:
I appreciate all the input and recommendations. Since reviewing your posts I have been eyeballing the L.T. Wright GNS in a saber grind. I sort of wish it came in full flat or convex.But I think I would prefer the saber over the scandi grind. Is the saber grind on the GNS considered a high saber? The specs really don't say.I don't want a saber to be to close to what a scandi would be.Just window shopping right now as I don't have a solid pick yet but you guys are helping me to narrow it down.Oh yes,one other little detail,if you will. I think I would prefer O1 over the A2 as well.I understand that the carbides are big on the A2 and can possible tear out if the edge is to acute whereas O1 can take a more acute angle an get sharper.Of course this is just some of what I read.
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LT usually labels them as high saber. The difference is the grind starts near the midline of the blade on a saber and above the midline on a high saber.

From top to bottom: full flat, high saber (flat), saber (flat), scandi. All are versions of flat grinds.
bP1uDWpl.jpg
 
bikerector said:
LT usually labels them as high saber. The difference is the grind starts near the midline of the blade on a saber and above the midline on a high saber.

From top to bottom: full flat, high saber (flat), saber (flat), scandi. All are versions of flat grinds.
bP1uDWpl.jpg
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Howdy,
Hey,thanks a lot.I now have a better understanding of the difference between the saber and the high saber.Looks like the LT.Wright GNS with saber grind might be a good contender.Although,I like the looks of your Flat grind Genesis as well.
Your Kabar looks like it has a good bit of history and can tell a lot of stories.It looks much like the combat knife my Dad carried in WWII and I carried his knife for two tours in Vietnam,though ours isn't a Kabar and I'd have to rub the jungle patina off of it just to see what make it is.The leather sheath is long jungle rotted out so I had to run green duct tape around it while over there just to keep the knife in.Glad I don't have to worry about jungles here in Northeast Ohio.
 
The big difference I see between 01 and A2 is stain resistance, A2 with a forced patina is easy to care for.

A2 can be very impressive especially with cryo heat treat to elimante retained austenite, almost 3v performance.
 
Ripcord 82 said:
Howdy,
Hey,thanks a lot.I now have a better understanding of the difference between the saber and the high saber.Looks like the LT.Wright GNS with saber grind might be a good contender.Although,I like the looks of your Flat grind Genesis as well.
Your Kabar looks like it has a good bit of history and can tell a lot of stories.It looks much like the combat knife my Dad carried in WWII and I carried his knife for two tours in Vietnam,though ours isn't a Kabar and I'd have to rub the jungle patina off of it just to see what make it is.The leather sheath is long jungle rotted out so I had to run green duct tape around it while over there just to keep the knife in.Glad I don't have to worry about jungles here in Northeast Ohio.
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I actually got the kabar mostly in that condition, but it would be interesting to know the story behind it. I've used it a little here and there. I took the top guard off recently to make it more comfortable as a bush knife. It's kind of fun to use as a nostalgic piece with some older axes and saws.
 
Sounds like you are off on the right track, I'll just add to the votes that you walk your own walk. You'll need to get some time in with the knives to see what it is that you really want. As you've found there are a lot of terms that seem very definitive, but are actually pretty general, and there will be small differences between knives that make one work more for you than another. You'll do well with any of the starting points that you have looked at.
I'd also get a cheap mora, look up "mouse pad sharpening" and just let the knife teach you stuff as it changes, and as you use it, there will be no sticker remorse when you abuse the mora. But for a real workhorse that you can rely on and trust you could do a lot worse than either of the makers you've picked. Stand up guys, and good knives.
 
In the past I was partial to convex grinds mostly because they were easy to sharpen with wet/dry sandpaper and a mouse pad. These days I could go with any grind. I like Bark River Knives for convex blades. Good luck choosing.
 
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