Byrd Hawkbill: some thoughts

[James Y]

I received a byrd hawkbill (Meadowlark 2?) last week. Mine simply says 'byrd hawkbill' on the handle. This is the first byrd knife I've owned or even handled, and for a $20 knife, I think it's a very good deal. I don't know it it's the norm, but the serrations on this blade are very shallow; in fact, instead of being 'teeth,' they are actually shallow/rounded enough to be a wavy pattern. The serrations on mine look even smoother and shallower than the ones on the same model I've seen on youtube. I'm not sure if that will mean a longer life for the serrations or not, but they don't hang up on some materials the way normal serrations can.

Of course, fit/finish isn't to the level of the knives I have from the U.S. or Japan, but for the price I wasn't expecting it to. The steel is either unfinished or slightly rusted in between the serrations on the jimping, but that's fine, too. I didn't buy it to admire its workmanship, but because I'm a fan of hawkbill blades, in particular Spydie hawkbills. I find there are some cutting chores in which a hawkbill is ideal. And the opening/closing is very smooth.

Jim

 

[randomlooker]

Coincidentally, I just got one in the mail today. I'm happy with it so far, although I haven't tried to cut anything with it yet.

The shallower serrations seem to be a byrd thing; all three toothed examples of the brand that I have are that way. I like better than the pointier teeth on Spyderco proper for most uses.

 

[Dr Heelhook]

IME, it seems people who prefer smoother, less pointy, more rounded serrations compared to regular spyderedge generally don't know how to use serrations properly. You use a different cutting technique with a serrated edge than with a plain edge. They're supposed to be deep. Not too deep (you've got to be able to sharpen them with the Sharpmaker), but deep enough to grab onto what you're cutting and definitely pointy.

 

[randomlooker]

IME, it seems people who prefer smoother, less pointy, more rounded serrations compared to regular spyderedge generally don't know how to use serrations properly.

Your experience is different than my experience.


Anyways, what's a knife thread without a (lousy) picture?

Meadowlark Hawkbill (Meadowhawk?) and Tasman.

 

[Pete1977]

IME, it seems people who prefer smoother, less pointy, more rounded serrations compared to regular spyderedge generally don't know how to use serrations properly. You use a different cutting technique with a serrated edge than with a plain edge. They're supposed to be deep. Not too deep (you've got to be able to sharpen them with the Sharpmaker), but deep enough to grab onto what you're cutting and definitely pointy.

I prefer the serrations on the byrd hawkbill to those on the spyderco hawkbill below it. How does that mean that I am not using serrations properly? I have used Byrd serrated knives for over 3 years both as a commercial mariner and lobsterman. Before that I have used a serrated Endura, Harpy, Rescue, Delica, and Pacific Salt. I can say that the Byrd serrations are better, more effective, and easier to maintain in the field than the deep pointy serrations found on Spyderco knives. And they negate the argument that serrated knives are only good for particular tasks, because the Byrd style cut just as well as a plain edged blade. They won't catch or snag in loose material like cloth that a pointier deeper serration will.

 

[Dr Heelhook]

I prefer the serrations on the byrd hawkbill to those on the spyderco hawkbill below it. How does that mean that I am not using serrations properly? I have used Byrd serrated knives for over 3 years both as a commercial mariner and lobsterman. Before that I have used a serrated Endura, Harpy, Rescue, Delica, and Pacific Salt. I can say that the Byrd serrations are better, more effective, and easier to maintain in the field than the deep pointy serrations found on Spyderco knives. And they negate the argument that serrated knives are only good for particular tasks, because the Byrd style cut just as well as a plain edged blade. They won't catch or snag in loose material like cloth that a pointier deeper serration will.

Maybe I was a little unclear.

The thing is that I actually consider the "catching and snagging" a good thing, because it minimizes the risk of slipping with the knife. My point was that a lot of people don't like when the edge catches the material, since they're used to cutting with a full length, back and forth, "sawing" type of action, which you can't do if the serrations catch the material. Therefore these people reject the serrated edge completely (or compromise by getting a rounded serrated edge that doesn't snag so much).
It's their loss though IMO, because an edge that catches onto the material can cut through just as well if you just use a slightly different technique, meaning that you put pressure and use fast, short, back and forth "shaking" motions as you cut, instead of the long, sliding, back and forth motions you would make with a plain edge.

This is also one of the reasons why a serrated edge can function fairly well even if it is not so sharp or even quite dull, because the points of the serrations will stab into the material and keep the blade in place as you're cutting. Trying the same thing with a with an equally dull plain edge would be flat out dangerous, with the risk of sliding with the blade.

 

[Talley1013]

I like the shallow serrations. In have a se s30v millie that was basically unusable because the serrations were so deep when i first got it. On the other hand my serrated delica, endura and ps millie have relatively shallow serrations and they all cut like crazy.

 

[SaMX]

I've been meaning to pick one of these up for a while. I think it would be awesome for doing yard work (pruning, weeding, cutting vines etc.)

 

[James Y]

I've used and liked various serrated knives since the late '90s. The ones I really like are still the ones that aren't TOO deep/pointed. I find that my SE Delica 4, Endura 4, SS Harpy, Spyderhawk Salt, Tasman Salt, SS Police, etc., work very well. Obviously, they're much pointier than my byrd Hawkbill, but I use them all. I have found that the serrations on my SE Pacific Salt, combo-edge SS Police, Atlantic Salt, etc., do snag on some things due to their depth/length.

In general, I've found that the serrations on Spydie's hawkbills work great, probably because the inward curve of the edge precludes making the serrations overly long(?). So far, my favorite uncurved serrated blade is the one on my Delica 4.

That said, I've used knives with serrations that were so shallow, or otherwise ground in such a way as to be almost useless. For example, on a couple of old combo-edged Benchmades I have (not that the knives themselves were useless for me, only the serrated sections on them).

I took the byrd Hawkbill to work and it did quite well cutting strapping, breakind down boxes, etc., but for now I've got it for use mainly around the house.

Jim

 

[randomlooker]

I've been meaning to pick one of these up for a while. I think it would be awesome for doing yard work (pruning, weeding, cutting vines etc.)

Try to track down a serrated Spyderhawk. The bigger blade and (In this case) pointy teeth makes it a vegetation-killing machine. I've used it and a Tasman for the purpose, and it works much better.

 

[delica77]

Does anyone know what the difference is between the Hawkbill 1 and the Hawkbill 2?

I just bought the one in the photo above. What a great value at only $19. Super sharp out of the box. I bought this after recently acquiring a Cricket and realizing the usefulness of a hawkbill blade shape. I also prefer the shallower serrations on this knife compared to the Spyderco serrations for overall use. No, they're not as effective for the toughest if tasks, but they also cut things that don't require serrations more easily. It's probably a good compromise for most people.

For someone like me, who occasionally needs a Hawkbill blade, there's no reason not to go with this knife, which was 1/4 the cost of a Tasman Salt. I'm definitely going to be checking out more of the Byrd knives to use as high value beaters.