Calling deer hunters

Lots of good points made here by several folk. A comment or two about cutting bones has led me to suggest that I have field dressed, skinned and butchered several dozen medium game animals (deer and pronghorn) and I no longer use a knife to cut any bones, such as the pelvic arch and sternum. In fact, I don't use ANY tool to do that because there is absolutely no reason to do it at all. On moose or elk that might be different (re sternum). A deer-sized animal can be field-dressed, skinned and butchered with the sternum and pelvic arch intact, and, in fact, it is preferred because the meat is kept cleaner, in addition to preserving the integrity of one's tools. To do the field work requires a knife that is no larger than a paring knife, although I go bigger than that. A Buck 119 (for instance) is absurdly overkill for working on animals. It might be quite nice for various bush jobs. Guides get a big kick out of clients with big knives.
 
For folders, I say anything with lock back and a stainless steel blade would work and a drop point is preferable, to me , at least. I would still feel better with a small fixed blade as it would be a bit safer and no chance of it closing on the fingers when elbow deep in deer. I've seen deer field dressed with a slip joint, just not my cup of tea.
 
Guides get a big kick out of clients with big knives.

I keep seeing this everywhere. It has come to really grind my gears. Forums, articles, reviews, etc. As a disclaimer, this isn't directed towards you Tongueriver, only as the most recent place I have seen it.

Why do guides get a kick out of it? What about a larger knife makes someone seem like they don't know what they are doing? At the moment, I really like a 5" blade. Now, I am using this knife for moose and have never dress a deer. Time and time again I see that "true" outdoorsman get by with a tiny blade. 3" or less. I certainly don't doubt their skill and ability to get by with a small blade. In my locality, the most common knife of "true" outdoorsman is a 6" Victorinox skinning knife. Inexpensive, plastic handled and large. Double the length of the so called mark of an experienced woodsman. Now these people I know are about the truest of woodsman you can get these days. Hunting and trapping, net fishing, spending weeks on the land at a time, often alone. They no doubt possess small knives however these are for very delicate tasks. Pelting, caping and carving. When it comes to processing ungulates, the big knives come out.

Anyway, a little off topic and again, not a direct attack at any single person.

To the OP, I would suggest a Buck 112 lockback or 113 Ranger.
 
I have never dressed an elk or a moose. I would take a bigger knife with me if I was to hunt for those animals. Otherwise, the question for me is one of need and desirability of handling a knife that is not as ungainly as a larger knife. For others it might be fad or fashion or some aspect of 'manliness.' Those parameters don't apply to me and I am not a guide, so I was only reporting what guides have told me. I just like using a smaller knife. Really, this, along with many other aspects of life, is just about personal preference, and is at least partially based on emotion. One man's treasure is another man's poison. This hits so many areas.
 
vRHVfLf.jpg
gCr7YAL.jpg
(Not my pic) but I have one. I’d go with the Buck 500 Duke. It’s a great size lock back. I like it better than the 110
Since it has a drop point. Kinda like a smaller and fancier 110 with a drop point and nickel silver bolsters instead of Brass. Nice belt sheath like 110 also. the 112 Ranger would be my second choice.
 
Last edited:
My suggestion would be take her to an outdoor store in your area and let her handle a few different knives and see which feels better too her.
This is how I did with my 2 boys and daughter.
I use a PUMA clip point with 4.5" blade and stag grip that I've had for 23 years. All my kids want it and are amazed to watch it work

It's not about the size of the knife. It's knowing how to use the knife properly. It takes practice and patience.

AND it has to be sharp. If you are going to buy her a knife teach her how to maintain it.
 
Cal, I agree with you on proper size skinning/cleaning knife for a whitetail (ours are smallish here, about 90-120 lbs. is a good size doe, bucks seldom get over 225 lbs.) For deer of that size I primarily use the Buck 118, however others I can think of using in the last five or six years are the Western Black Beauty 66, Buck 113, Buck 117, Buck 110, Buck 121 Guide (thicker blade than the old 121 Fisherman), Case Hammerhead, Case fixed blade 5" (forgot model number), Schrade 160OT, Schrade 165OT, Schrade 15OT (too big for whitetail - gets in the way when working inside the cavity and deboning around the hip/pelvic area). Except for the 15OT all were in the same medium size range. Haven't had the pleasure of cleaning a Moose or an Elk (I field dressed one with a buddy that shot it, but didn't butcher it) - I would go to a Buck 119 or equal size knife for that task. Working inside the deer (blind work by feel) I want a small enough blade to be maneuverable inside and short enough to leave my other hand uncut when working by feel. I tend toward a narrow blade as it turns well in narrow areas - a Buck 102 blade is perfect but the handle to small for my hands, thus I settled on the Buck 118. OH
 
I’ve lost count how many deer I’ve field dressed and processed the last 35 years with a Buck 110. Both the 110 with 3 3/4 blade and 112 with 3 inch blade You can get them in drop point or clip, carbon steel, several different stainless steels to choose from and handle materials from standard to light weight LT model. Most all the models are very affordable unless it’s a limited edition or custom.
 
Here shown together are the Buck 118 and Buck 110 (shown with a Buck 303 Cadet medium stockman for size comparison). OH
Buck-Hunting-knives.jpg
It's not about the size of the knife. It's knowing how to use the knife properly. It takes practice and patience.

AND it has to be sharp. If you are going to buy her a knife teach her how to maintain it.
I'll piggyback on these two. My first real hunting knife was a Buck 118(1969-79) like the top one in OH's post. It will do it all and do it well gut, skin and butcher. I've used it exclusively on elk and deer, as well as upland and waterfowl...coyote(well, when their pelts sold for good money). 420HC is great, my 118 has the 440C which makes knowing how to sharpen even more essential.

TAK65, is right about size, and knowing how to use it. Not sure how a beginner gets practice, or patience...especially when it's sub-zero and you have lost the feeling in all your extremities...but Buck's 118 is my choice for the knife. I would not use a slippy for this task, taking care of the build up of blood, fat, meat, and hair when processing a freshly killed game would take more patience than I have!
 
I've been on the road all day with 2 kids under 3... so forgive any repeat advice. But a fixed blade in VG10 is darn hard to beat. A thicker/heavier blade will also let you split the sternum without needing to mess with a saw.

Something to consider: are you planning to gut on the ground or up on a boom? If the former, odds are the knife gets more hair/blood/guts/waste on/in it... so the more joints and crevices, the more tedious the after care will be. For a folder, stainless might be a good compromise.
 
The Bark River Bravo EDC is a great option for small hands. Its at the top of your price range (check the big auction site), but with high-end stainless steel blade options, drop point option, and a convex edge, it's an excellent deer knife. If not that one, Bark River has more fixed blade offerings than you can shake a stick at. I've been very happy their knives so far.
 
I'll piggyback on these two. My first real hunting knife was a Buck 118(1969-79) like the top one in OH's post. It will do it all and do it well gut, skin and butcher. I've used it exclusively on elk and deer, as well as upland and waterfowl...coyote(well, when their pelts sold for good money). 420HC is great, my 118 has the 440C which makes knowing how to sharpen even more essential.

TAK65, is right about size, and knowing how to use it. Not sure how a beginner gets practice, or patience...especially when it's sub-zero and you have lost the feeling in all your extremities...but Buck's 118 is my choice for the knife. I would not use a slippy for this task, taking care of the build up of blood, fat, meat, and hair when processing a freshly killed game would take more patience than I have!


psjrs, good point about the cold. It can be tough.
As far as practice, we all have kitchens we can practice in. Skin and debone a chicken or turkey with it, use it on a ham that has a bone in it.
I think a lot of us use our "favorite" knives for everything until the next "favorite" comes along
 
Here is a different combo that I've used in the past. These two took it from field to skinned and quartered and placed in a large cooler. American Knife Co. Compact Forest Knife (A2) and Bark River
Wolf River Skinner (s35vn). Both are still laser sharp.....
17545.jpeg
 
If you are willing to search the secondary markets a little, both of these two USA Schrade Uncle Henrys can be had for within your price range. Excellent stainless steel, two sizes and different geometries to cover all eventualities, and nice grippy handles. I've cleaned and butchered more game with a Sharpfinger (the smaller 152UH) than all others combined, but having a larger, stouter blade like the 165UH is nice insurance.

IOGUqwe.jpg
 
A deer-sized animal can be field-dressed, skinned and butchered with the sternum and pelvic arch intact, and, in fact, it is preferred because the meat is kept cleaner, in addition to preserving the integrity of one's tools.
Field dressing yes, but we get the deer back to camp whole (so we can record live weight) and use a gambrel and pulley. With a gambrel the head is down and there is no way to clear out the chest cavity if you don't open the rib cage.
 
Lots of good points made here by several folk. A comment or two about cutting bones has led me to suggest that I have field dressed, skinned and butchered several dozen medium game animals (deer and pronghorn) and I no longer use a knife to cut any bones, such as the pelvic arch and sternum. In fact, I don't use ANY tool to do that because there is absolutely no reason to do it at all. On moose or elk that might be different (re sternum). A deer-sized animal can be field-dressed, skinned and butchered with the sternum and pelvic arch intact, and, in fact, it is preferred because the meat is kept cleaner, in addition to preserving the integrity of one's tools. To do the field work requires a knife that is no larger than a paring knife, although I go bigger than that. A Buck 119 (for instance) is absurdly overkill for working on animals. It might be quite nice for various bush jobs. Guides get a big kick out of clients with big knives.
We almost always left the sternum intact, and dont ever recall anyone who I've worked up whitetail with splitting the pelvis either. Different strokes for different folks I guess. Once a cousin of mine wanted to get into deer hunting. ( to be fair we never really hunted deer growing up, mostly small game) He'd bought some VHS tapes about it, and my Dad let him hunt our property. When he got his deer he gutted on his own but we helped skin and quarter it. In the process, my cousin was acting like a know it all because he watched how the "professionals" done it. Well he insists we split the sternum to which my Dad and I reacted like o_O say what? Lol. Well my Dad says "Its your deer and your show, I'll go get a saw" . While he was gone into the building to get a saw, I used my Case daddy barlow (still have it, y'all seen me post it) to cut down both sides of the sternum through the cartilage. Cousin says :eek: "Thats not how your supposed to do it!" :rolleyes: Our dog loved it by the way :D
Want to add we raised our own beef and put one in the freezer every year, and a hog every other year. Smaller knives was always used to gut and skin, then 6 to 8 inch Old Hickory butcher knives was used for the rest. Most often we quartered them, split the carcass and took them to a meat packer to be processed right. I remember my Dad using the same bowsaw to split the pelvis and down the spine that he took camping, just with a different blade. But I've diverged off topic, long story to say, field dress: small blade, butcher: bigger blades
 
Back
Top