Caly 3, Zdp-189 questions

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Mar 1, 2013
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I hear everyone say ZDP takes forever to sharpen on the sharpmaker. Roughly how long would it take to sharpen a ZDP blade if it were slightly dull?

What are some easy ways to touch up my Caly 3, ZDP blade after it's been used and I want to make sure it stays super sharp? I have a strop, and compounds, a sharpmaker, with all rod types including ultra fine. Any other ways to keep it touched up please let me know. Thanks
 
In my experience, it seems that Spyderco pays attention to the factory edges on ZDP blades more in particular to match the SM's angle settings. I do not use the corners of the rods with ZDP and spend all my time on the flats. To maintain an edge, it doesn't take me long. I do unique passes such as upward swipes along with conventional ones and go up to UF with it most of the time. If the blade's only slightly dull I'd probably start with the Fine on the flats at the 40 degree bevel and make 60 to 100 passes up to UF. I have a stropman strop with green and white compounds that I use afterwards. Also if I have time, I strop it to maintain that razor edge. If it's too dull, you may need to go down to the 30 degree bevel and put in work and that might be a bear. I do have an EP for heavier sharpening and it handles ZDP well on the stock stones, just don't put too much pressure especially on the last passes of each stone. Less pressure and more passes is the key but it doesn't really take much longer than other steels as swipes should be quick therefore consistent.
 
I actually just had to touch mine up yesterday. I moved this past weekend and had my ZDP Caly 3 in my pocket the whole time. After using it to break down somewhere between 30 and 40 boxes, it still had a pretty solid working edge, but it was far from shaving sharp. Only using the course and fine stones that come with the Sharpmaker, I did 20 passes on each side of the knife on both the corners and flats on each stone (160 total). In total it took me about 10 minutes to get it back to shaving sharp.
 
In my experience, it seems that Spyderco pays attention to the factory edges on ZDP blades more in particular to match the SM's angle settings. I do not use the corners of the rods with ZDP and spend all my time on the flats. To maintain an edge, it doesn't take me long. I do unique passes such as upward swipes along with conventional ones and go up to UF with it most of the time. If the blade's only slightly dull I'd probably start with the Fine on the flats at the 40 degree bevel and make 60 to 100 passes up to UF. I have a stropman strop with green and white compounds that I use afterwards. Also if I have time, I strop it to maintain that razor edge. If it's too dull, you may need to go down to the 30 degree bevel and put in work and that might be a bear. I do have an EP for heavier sharpening and it handles ZDP well on the stock stones, just don't put too much pressure especially on the last passes of each stone. Less pressure and more passes is the key but it doesn't really take much longer than other steels as swipes should be quick therefore consistent.

so 60 to 100 passes for each stone? thanks for letting me know not to use the corners of the stones.
 
I actually just had to touch mine up yesterday. I moved this past weekend and had my ZDP Caly 3 in my pocket the whole time. After using it to break down somewhere between 30 and 40 boxes, it still had a pretty solid working edge, but it was far from shaving sharp. Only using the course and fine stones that come with the Sharpmaker, I did 20 passes on each side of the knife on both the corners and flats on each stone (160 total). In total it took me about 10 minutes to get it back to shaving sharp.

that easy? I always thought it was going to be a nightmare to sharpen a ZDP blade. I don't know why everyone thinks its a pain to sharpen?
 
It isnt that much more difficult, it just takes more time.
And it also helps that spyderco provides a nice acute factory grind to begin with, so there's not much need for low grit reprofiling....just high grit touch-ups.
I maintain my CF/ZDP Caly 3.5 with a strop and some UF ceramic stones every now and then.
What a great knife.
 
It isnt that much more difficult, it just takes more time.
And it also helps that spyderco provides a nice acute factory grind to begin with, so there's not much need for low grit reprofiling....just high grit touch-ups.
I maintain my CF/ZDP Caly 3.5 with a strop and some UF ceramic stones every now and then.
What a great knife.

how many swipes on the stones do you do per side?
 
While the Spyderco Sharpmaker is a fantastic sharpener, I'd suggest, in the case of ZDP-189, using DMT diamond-coated plates. Even the cheap pocket-ones do a pretty darn decent job on ZDP vs ceramics or natural stones which, in my experience, hardly bite at all. A medium and fine or ultra-fine double-side credit card plate would work great or one of the folding "balisong" like verisons.

Just be careful not to cut yourself, freehand sharpening with these small plates is more dangerous than with the Sharpmaker.

For general sharpening of mildly dull blades with secondary bevels:

1. Start off with a medium grit of whatever sharpening medium you prefer. Something that leaves grind lines that are fairly visible even in less-than-ideal light.
2. Generally 10-15 strokes on one side, switch to other side. As you go along keep reducing the number of strokes until you get to alternating sides on each stroke.
3. Move to higher grit and repeat then strop on polishing compound-loaded cardboard or leather.

Gentle pressure worked best for me on ZDP-189. It's quite unlike any other steel I've sharpened but takes a wicked polished edge but performs in general utility, IMO, even better with a slightly rougher edge (600-800 grit).
 
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how many swipes on the stones do you do per side?

There is no set amount of swipes per side as that would depend in a number of things such as the current condition of the edge including angle, sharpness, and the level of damage that mist be sharpened out, as well as your abilities to hold a consistent angle. Forget what you know about alternating sides at first, simply work one side until you have a burr, then do the same on the other side, then cut off the burr. That's all there is to sharpening, regardless of the steel you're sharpening or the equipment you use. Here's a good video showing what I mean:

[video=youtube;-MHe_8wTHmg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MHe_8wTHmg&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]

Also this one:
[video=youtube;z_mSNfJhW8o]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_mSNfJhW8o&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]
 
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From my experience, the key for zdp is to not let it get too dull. The information above is perfect for touching up your blade. If you let it get really dull or damage it, a sharp maker won't get it back to where you need it without tremendous work. Reprifiling is where the difficulty in sharpening that steel comes into play.
 
Yeah, when I said I go 60-100 passes as far as a routine, that is ballpark average for a touchup for me since you were wondering how long it takes but that 40 pass difference really suggests that there is no set amount and its really about the blade's condition. Also the number of passes become blurred with different methods and pressure. Mkjellgren is spot on and focusing on one side at a time is another great method indeed.
 
To put it even more simply, strop often, sharpen less ;). A small amount of steel polishing compound on open leather or cardboard works great. Fairly easy to carry around inside a backpack or the like too, since it doesn't have to be very large. In a pinch, fine automobile sandpaper glued to the back of a sharpening stone/plate works well too.

I prefer sharpening until I have erased all other abrasion lines, finer or thicker. Then move up in grit.
 
Congress Tools makes SiC stones that will fit the triangle Sharpmaker slots from what I have heard. Cheap and they do not clog or wear quickly. Great stuff for those on a super budget. Just a few bucks each and they handle M4, ZDP, S90V or plain 154CM.
 
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