Can anyone tell me how to sharpen a katana?

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BePrepared

BePrepared

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with no skill, very minimal tools, and absolutely no clue what i'm doing?

The blade is already pretty sharp, but it's not polished, and obviously not as sharp as it should be.

I don't have anyone nearby that can do it for me, and the only sword store in town wants $10-15/inch which seems to be about 5 times what the professionals here are asking
 
shrpening a sword is not like sharpening a knife, especially a katana. Pay the 10-15/inch. You'll have more money in buying a few stones, and probably messing up the blade than letting someone who knows what they're doing handle the job.
 
$10-15 per inch is a good price for sharpening a Japanese sword.

If you do not have the tools and skills, you will surely ruin the sword by doing it yourself.

Google shiagi-togi and shitaji-togi, and you will get the info needed.
 
Make sure they know how to sharpen a katana, not how to sharpen a katana like a knife.

Some swords don't have to be that sharp to cause real damage, maybe even to the user. I'd ask around BF some more, maybe somebody that makes swords.
 
If its an original Japanese piece, write the check and get a pro. A ham-handed 'sharpening' will reduce its value by more than the amount a professional polisher would charge.

If the local guy says he can 'sharpen' it then he doesn't have a clue how to proceed. It's called 'polishing'.

If the piece in question is one of the stainless replicas, go for it; you can't hurt the value.


Regards,

Pat
 
it's actually a Hanwei Tactical Wakizashi... If it were a japanese piece, i wouldn't mind spending a few hundred to have it done by a pro, but 200 to polish the edge on a $100 blade seems silly...

there are a few guys who say they can do it for $30-40, and if they were local, they'd already be doing it, but i'd rather not ship it if it can be avoided.

Is there any way for me to polish the edge using something i can get at home depot? The blade is already very sharp, but clearly not smooth
 
BePrepared said:
Is there any way for me to polish the edge using something i can get at home depot? The blade is already very sharp, but clearly not smooth
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Not correctly. Most polishers I've seen charge upwards of 60-120 per inch. Theres a reason for it. The amount of time and skill involved is incredible.
 
I checked out a Tactical Waki at the last blade show. It is 5160 with some kind of transparent rust inhibiting coating. There is no hamon to preserve and the edge is a simple convex. This is not a traditional Japanese blade. For a blade under $100, it seems like a cool beater. Some folks use automotive wet/dry paper on a leather backing and drag(strop) the blade. Look up "convex sharpening" for ideas. I would use a sanding paddle and work the abrasive paper with strokes parallel to the edge, then finish with a loaded leather paddle. .... have fun. You can set yourself up to sharpen this blade for under $30 at your local automotive/hardware store very easily. Let me know if you need more info.

Rick
 
There's a couple of great videos about convex sharpening on sites like Knivs Ship Free,and maybe even the Bark River site. Lots of vids on You Tube, but different techniques can get confusing. Just be careful not to slice yourself in the process.
 
i DO have a work sharp belt sharpener that i use with GREAT results on my Kukris, machettes and other longer blades. Would that work without damaging my blade? I would assume that i'd just use the very fine polishing belt and LOTS of oil, and keep wetting it to cool it...

would that work well, or should I stick to hand polishing?
 
If you plan on cutting with it a lot, you might look into a cheap, low powered belt sander for sharpening. With a little practice and good belts, putting razor sharp convex edges of any length becomes a quick and simple task. I suggest practicing on some cheap kitchen knives and machetes first. There are plenty of threads here about it and some YouTube vids.
 
BePrepared said:
isn't the WorkSharp Wskts (the model i have) a low powered belt sander?
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Sorry. I started my reply prior to you post about it, but walked away for a bit. I was referring to a little 1x30 inch belt sander. I've never used a worksharp. I've no idea how high of a convex you can run on one, belt costs, belt life, or how well it works.
 
if the edge is not that bad, just go to woodcraft and get a paper buffing wheel and a cheap variable speed grinder from lowes and use it to maintain the edge. thats what i'm going to do to the 3' sword i have when it needs touched up.
 
If it's already sharp, maybe it just needs a strop. Please also note that katana and wakis cut with a pull stroke and often don't feel sharp to the touch. Just don't run your finger along the edge if you want to keep it.
 
Rick Marchand said:
I checked out a Tactical Waki at the last blade show. It is 5160 with some kind of transparent rust inhibiting coating. There is no hamon to preserve and the edge is a simple convex. This is not a traditional Japanese blade. For a blade under $100, it seems like a cool beater. Some folks use automotive wet/dry paper on a leather backing and drag(strop) the blade. Look up "convex sharpening" for ideas. I would use a sanding paddle and work the abrasive paper with strokes parallel to the edge, then finish with a loaded leather paddle. .... have fun. You can set yourself up to sharpen this blade for under $30 at your local automotive/hardware store very easily. Let me know if you need more info.

Rick
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being a "traditional" blade isn't the issue, it's keeping proper cutting geometry. I have a raptor series katana and i wouldn't attempt anything more than a light strop. Getting it too convex, especially at the edge makes it a bad crowbar
 
okay, let's assume i just want to strop it... when i use a standard Knife steel from my kitchen set (Please don't hate me) the edge is VERY sharp, but it's not a smooth sharp... it also has a bead (right term?) that rolls to one side if i am not VERY careful with the steel.

I know from my minimal knife experience that that bead means you're at the last stage before true razor sharpness... but i don't know precisely what tools i need and what techniques to use to perfect that last step
 
you have a burr and it needs to be removed by stropping. if that is all it needs i can run it over the slotted wheel a few times and have it sharp. if you pay return shipping and insurance i'll do it for free :D.
 
SShepherd said:
being a "traditional" blade isn't the issue, it's keeping proper cutting geometry. I have a raptor series katana and i wouldn't attempt anything more than a light strop. Getting it too convex, especially at the edge makes it a bad crowbar
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Very true... It scares me when folks talk about sharpening convex geometry at the edge area only. I also stay clear of mousepads and soft backing. You should be removing material from the entire blade face(from the shinogi to the edge)... which is why I prefer the paddles for light maintenence and stones for more involved refurbishing.

I do not advise using a belt grinder with abrasives unless you are very experienced.... then again, those experienced with traditional Japanese geometry probably wouldn't use a belt grinder... lol.
 
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