Can I use JB weld for a handle?

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Jul 7, 2013
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I have developed a crack in the handle of my bone pocket knife, can I use JB weld? If I developed a crack in my khukuri handle, could I use JB weld? All we have in the crappy little town I live in is a tiny Walmart, and a small hardware store I can never make it to because it shuts down at 4:00. The Walmart has more of a selection anyway. All they have still is a crap ton of super glue, locktight epoxy, some liquid nails, and JB weld. I want that because it has the it has 3 or 4 thousand PSI strength. It is two part, sets in 20 minutes, and cures in 24 hours, is this a good choice? Also it dries dark grey, could I add a drop of black ink to it? Or red for my pocket knife.
 
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JB weld is epoxy. It has metal filler and is generally rated at higher temps but you wont be burning you Khuk anytime soon I hope! I would go with the Loctite epoxy myself assuming it is two part mix and cure time is at least 5 min. some say slow set is better if you can get it but i have used the 5 min with success and you can finish the job same day. Liquid nails is probably too soft and would not take a polish well if its what I think it is. Most importantly if you are concerned about bond strength is getting the surface clean and free of oils. Soap or rubbing alcohol is good for surface cleaning. I wouldnt worry about bond strength if you stick with a good brand like Loctitie of Devcon.
 
JB weld is epoxy. It has metal filler and is generally rated at higher temps but you wont be burning you Khuk anytime soon I hope! I would go with the Loctite epoxy myself assuming it is two part mix and cure time is at least 5 min. some say slow set is better if you can get it but i have used the 5 min with success and you can finish the job same day. Liquid nails is probably too soft and would not take a polish well if its what I think it is. Most importantly if you are concerned about bond strength is getting the surface clean and free of oils. Soap or rubbing alcohol is good for surface cleaning. I wouldnt worry about bond strength if you stick with a good brand like Loctitie of Devcon.

All they have in regards to loctite is translucent yellow, can I color that with ink?
 
JB Weld will look like crap, dull grey. If you add ink it will still be dull and may change the composition and therefore the effectiveness. Super glue should be fine for a thin crack in a pocket knife scale and will be clear without color.
 
I've used JB weld to good effect but it looks ugly.

Another option is to mix wood dust with the clear or translucent epoxy. That is also good and looks better. For a bone handle you might try adding bone dust.
 
I've used JB weld to good effect but it looks ugly.

Another option is to mix wood dust with the clear or translucent epoxy. That is also good and looks better. For a bone handle you might try adding bone dust.
So should I take super fine sand paper and take a thin layer off the handle?
 
So should I take super fine sand paper and take a thin layer off the handle?

YYBM Any way to get a pic of what your trying to repair? Yes clear or translucent is fine for broken scales. Are you tring to put two broken pieces back together or fill a crack?
 
So should I take super fine sand paper and take a thin layer off the handle?

I recommend buying a good porterhouse steak.

First you must remove the meat from the bone. This is best done by searing each side in a buttered cast iron pan, and then carefully cutting the meat away from the bone with a sharp knife and a fork. When the bone is mostly free of flesh a final cleaning can be done by boiling the bone until it is completely free of adhering flesh. Then the bone can be dried and sanded to produce bone dust.

If you want color try dying or coloring the bone prior to sanding to produce colored dust.
 
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YYBM Any way to get a pic of what your trying to repair? Yes clear or translucent is fine for broken scales. Are you tring to put two broken pieces back together or fill a crack?

Well, as luck would have it, a crack formed from the hole in the handle of my little kagag katne. So now I am filling a hole, and filling a crack. Could I take a small layer off the handle of my kagag to mix with the epoxy to fill the hole? Also what can I use to clamp the handle once I get the epoxy in the crack. Right now I have it wrapped in hemp to keep the crack from further spreading, I would use that but I am afraid that the epoxy will ooze out of the crack before it's set, and attach the hemp to the handle. Here is a pic. I finally got the hemp wrapped perfectly, so I wont undo it. The crack is all the way to the tang though.
PHOTO_20130721_170045.jpg
 
Here is what id do for what its worth. I think it will work fine for you:
1. Unwrap it. You can clamp it later by wrapping it how you have it now.
2. Try to clean crack with alcohol if you have it. That really makes a difference when polishing out. Dont worry it wont dry your handle enough to harm it if ya lube it up a few days later.
3.You can mask off the handle on each side of the crack to minimize cleanup and sanding later. Mix glue of choice(mines epoxy) and fill crack working it best you can down deep to the tang. make sure you fill the crack entirely then tape over the crack you just filled.
4. Now take the cord you didnt want to remove and do exactly what you did before to clamp it until it sets. After it cures and you cant push your fingernail through the glue then remove everything. Then you can file it down to remove excess. You may have to go a second time with the fill because you got to fill the hole/burn? spot and maybe some bubbles you missed the first time but no problem. Start with something like 220 sandpaper then 400,600,1000 or whatever you have in between. Better to finish up with about 1000 or better. When you get to 400 or 600 or so you can dye it with black magic marker or sharpie then let it dry and also before buffing.
5. If you have an old t-shirt rip the bottom hem out of it. The part that goes around your waist. Wrap it around the handle one and a half times and hmmm.....you dont have a clamp. If you can secure the blade to something then you can buff it out to mirror finish like when you buy them new by pulling the cotton tshirt strip back and forth. Also you can buff it on youre demin jeans at the thigh while your wearing them. If the handle gets slightly warm then your doing well. Let me know if you get stumped. Go for it man! You CAN do it! Dont forget its a paper cutter. you want it to look good but your not going to chop logs with it. Anyway Blah Blah Blah!!! let us know how it turns out.
 
I recommend buying a good porterhouse steak.

First you must remove the meat from the bone. This is best done by searing each side in a buttered cast iron pan, and then carefully cutting the meat away from the bone with a sharp knife and a fork. When the bone is mostly free of flesh a final cleaning can be done by boiling the bone until it is completely free of adhering flesh. Then the bone can be dried and sanded to produce bone dust.

If you want color try dying or coloring the bone prior to sanding to produce colored dust.

Thats the best yet! Dont forget a dozen Gulf brown shrimp! What has Shrimp got to do with Khuks? You can grind the shells to make pink bone!
 
I believe it's possible to fill the crack with the epoxy and then lightly sand over it while it's still wet to mix the bone dust into the surface.
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'll get some epoxy this weekend, and let you know how it goes. Also, I know it's meant for paper cutting, but could I use it effectively as a general purpose utility knife?
 
absolutely! BTW: My detructions above were to repair your KK. Sorry for the bone confusion.
Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'll get some epoxy this weekend, and let you know how it goes. Also, I know it's meant for paper cutting, but could I use it effectively as a general purpose utility knife?
 
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