Carbide File Guide?

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Dec 7, 2000
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My file guide is wearing out. So far I'm still getting square shoulders but the steel isn't as fully hardened as my files are :), and it's getting a bit rounded at the edges.

I know that some of you have made file guides with carbide surfaces, and I'm interested in making one for myself, or failing that finding one I can buy. In the search I ran a minute ago I saw a reference to one that Uncle Al sells but couldn't find him online.

One thought I've had is to make the surface of the guide wider than the one I use now. Each surface is about 1/2" wide, which, given my rather rude approach, possibly isn't ideal. I thought making each side more like 3/4" or even an inch wide might help me to keep things nice and flat. Opinions?

How have you guys made yours? Where do you find the carbide surfaces? I've seen carbide inserts for milling tools, is that what you use? Does the carbide dull your files?

I have a milling machine that I don't use much because I've had no training, but I think I could probably get stuff square with it if I knew what tools to use at what speed. I have no objection to buying one though, if that seems like the best route.

All ideas and guidance welcomed. Thanks,
 
Excellent! Is this that bad boy?

Uncle Al filing guide

Unless I can make something like this fairly straightforwardly, I think I'll just spring for this one. Is it true you can square up your shoulders on the grinder, or is that just hype? Would you use a wheel or the platen?
 
Here is the one I made. Simple, believe me if I can do it...

3/8 lathe cutting inserts.

filing_jig1.jpg


Pad
 
After tearing up 3 O1 or A2 file guides on the KMG, (I grind my plunge cuts with the file guide on the blade) I bought one of Uncle Al's carbide ones. VERY expensive, but a 36 grit zirconia belt won't even scratch it. Makes me wonder how on earth Al cuts the stuff to begin with? That probably explains most of the price difference between it and a regular hardened steel guide.;)
 
The pieces of carbide are available in many sizes at MSC; however, they are only available in packs of ten in sizes appropriate for this application, IIRC.
 
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Thanks guys. Don't have MSC catalog but I'll check Travers; they probably have these too. I think this is worth looking into and appreciate the replies.

Also, Brent check your email too.
 
Is it true you can square up your shoulders on the grinder, or is that just hype? Would you use a wheel or the platen?

Yes :D:D:D

Got mine a couple of weeks ago and it didn't even notice the coarse belt grinding
on it :D

I have a beat up similar looking guild from a knife supply store that I've been using
for several years. Uncle Al's is very noticeably bigger, more solid and better made
as well as being carbide faced.
 
Dave, you can always line up several lathe inserts for the carbide, too. Someone (Brent F?) showed one like that in the past.

I agree with the others, though, the Uncle Al's guide is awfully nice. My only complaint is that the threads are a little tight and mine needs a hex wrench even when loose.
 
Definitely sounds like it's worth the money. Thanks! I like big and beefy file guides. :D

I almost wish I hadn't gone by there again - my mouth is watering just looking at all the cool stuff he sells. I better start making some knives so I can keep my tool and handle material habit going. I have two weeks off and started a few knives. Hope I can get a few done while I'm on vacation. I can't tell you how much I enjoy being in the shop again. Except for the mess of course.
 
... I can't tell you how much I enjoy being in the shop again. Except for the mess of course.

I've always enjoyed what Don Fogg says about cleaning the shop as part of the process:

Sweeping the shop
The day begins with sweeping the floor. A clean and organized shop promotes clear thinking. I have heard makers defend their cluttered benches by saying that they know right where everything is, but when you watch them work, they spend much of their time hunting for tools. Sweeping the floor is also about getting a fresh start to the day. The problems and difficulties of the previous day are put into perspective when the bench is cleared and the tools are back in place. Use this time to mentally lay out the work ahead. Sweep the mind free of clutter and focus on the day.

http://www.dfoggknives.com/wayof.htm
 
Dave, you can always line up several lathe inserts for the carbide, too. Someone (Brent F?) showed one like that in the past.

I agree with the others, though, the Uncle Al's guide is awfully nice. My only complaint is that the threads are a little tight and mine needs a hex wrench even when loose.

Yeah, I'd thought about that too and considered trying it if I didn't get all this great info.

I know what you mean about the tight threads; the one I have now - don't remember whether I got it from K&G or TKS - is tight too, but I figure that's a good thing to keep things lined up well. I had an ideal key-shaped hex wrench sitting next to mine on the "big vise" bench, and danged if I haven't lost it. Now I'm back to using a regular old 90 degree bent one. It's not nearly as handy as the other one was, just because of the tight threads. It's the little things that matter to us nut cases.

Brent is making some out of S7, which sounds like an excellent choice.
 
I've always enjoyed what Don Fogg says about cleaning the shop as part of the process:

Sweeping the shop
The day begins with sweeping the floor. A clean and organized shop promotes clear thinking. I have heard makers defend their cluttered benches by saying that they know right where everything is, but when you watch them work, they spend much of their time hunting for tools. Sweeping the floor is also about getting a fresh start to the day. The problems and difficulties of the previous day are put into perspective when the bench is cleared and the tools are back in place. Use this time to mentally lay out the work ahead. Sweep the mind free of clutter and focus on the day.

http://www.dfoggknives.com/wayof.htm

Hm. Yes, I get it. I've always swept up at the end of the day just to keep from tracking up the house, but I totally agree that it would help get your mind on the day's work. I might change my practice and see if that makes a difference. I believe it could. I sure always have agreed that straightening things out regularly helps my shop practice. When I can't find something it not only slows me down but it breaks my rhythm too.
 
If I were to try and make one, Dave, I would make sure and include the indexing pins to keep everything lined up well. You may have to buy a reamer to get the right fit for the pins. I started out to make one a couple years back, but after finding out the inserts were only available in a ten-pack, and needing to buy a reamer to get the pins to fit properly, barstock, etc, I got lazy and just bought one.:o
 
I know what you mean Mike. One of the things I've wondered about is how to make the alignment pins tight in one half and just tight enough in the other. I've no clue what sizes to do that with, or how to press the pins into the tight side. I guess that's what you'd do. I figure once the pins are in you'd do the machining? I haven't quite figured all this out, which is why I too am considering buying one.

This isn't something we replace very often but I'm one of those guys who sometimes uses stuff beyond its useful life... (Can't tell you how many cars I've driven for over 15 years. Several though.) So anyway, I want to replace this one with something that'll hold up for a while. The current one just isn't hard enough; the one before that was too hard and broke. Fine line there.
 
They make reamers in .001's sizes that are meant to use precisely for an app like this. If you need an onsize and then oversize reamer to do this, though, they can be about $25+ apiece!
That said, I can't tell for sure how the Uncle Al's guide is put together. It almost looks like they're bigger on the "fixed" side than the "loose" side. (I'm sure a machinist has real names for that!)
Perhaps one of the machinists will come along and explain how one does indexing pins.....

Edited to add: the chamfering on the "loose" side gave the illusion the other end may have been larger. It's a 1/4" polished pin. Someone else will hopefully describe how much "over/under" the holes have to be to get the pin to stick on one side and slide on the other.
The barstock is 5/8" square. The carbide is 1/8 x 1/2 x 3, inset approx 40thou deep in the barstock. OAL 3-1/2". 1-3/4 between the screws.
 
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I have one of Uncle Al's and love it, glad to hear so many other makers have one......I was afraid I was the only one willing to pay so much for a file guide:)

The only thing I miss is the spring loaded guide pins of my older guide, thinking of trying to fit some springs on this one.

Dave
 
I too had greatly hesitsted on Uncle Al's file guide due to price. I finally bit the bullet a while back and could not be happier. Besides the carbide being untouchable. The guide in general is made to perfection. Well worth the $$.
 
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