Care for high carbon steel blade

G

General Purpose

Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
8
Hi,

I plan to buy an high carbon steel camp knife (I like a lot these bulky Ontario knives ...). From various readings, I understand that care is THE concern for 1095 steel. Therefore, I'd like to know the opinions of experienced owners for these points:
- what kind of oil is recommended for high carbon steel blade (mineral oil, guns oil, rust inhibitor WD40-like, ...)? I mean the "best oil"
- how this steel behave in wet air (jungle training, seaside, ...)?

By the way, does anyone know the sharpening angle for 1095 Ontario knives?

And finally, what are the main differences/advantages of 5160 compred to 1095?

Looking forward to read you.
 
For pricey blades, I use gun oil and bring a can of WD40 camping. I clean it down carefully just after use, spray it with WD40' and sheath it. Nights I thicken the coat. Back home, I carefully clean it, sharpen it, rub in the gun oil and lay a thicker oil on the edge. I check all stored blades and reoil if necessary monthly. For cheap blas, I just rub them down when I sharpen them. In the field, I just wipe them against y leg and sheathe them. A few have shown spots I polish out on sharpening. Its not all that much work.

5160 should be the tougher steel allmround better steel, but 1095 should be easier to sharpen. Others will probably answer this better than I can.
 
WD-40 = Water Displacer. As long as you keep the knife clean and dry you really should not have too many issues. Some people ahve crazy body chemistry and that impacts the amount of rust that develops on a blade. Coated or polished blades seem to withstand rust better than beadblasted or even satin finished ones. I had a machetemade from 1055 years ago and it never rusted despite being used during the monsoons and being rained on.
 
I use mineral oil. Its cheap and safe to use on food prep knives. Also its what the samurai used so I figure it's good enough for me.
 
I use too mineral oil for my folders. It's a little bit greasy, but it performs quite well with synthetics, brass or copper washers. But actually, I was hesitating using it for rust prevention.
 
For food-contact knives, Mineral Oil is where it's at. Works decently well and is completely food-safe. You can easily pick it up at any drug store.

For non-food-contact knives, especially ones that you expect to be out in the woods with in conditions prone to rust, I'd highly recommend Eezox. The level of corrosion protection that stuff offers is absurd. It can be a tad harder to find, check sporting goods stores and the internet. Midway offers it for sale, as I recall.

As you noted, some basic care goes a LONG ways. Keep it clean, don't let water sit on it after you rinse it off, etc. It will probably start to develop a light patina with time, which is a fine thing and adds some serious character to the blade. Bear in mind how many swords are still in museum collections from the middle ages and before, or the heirloom blades that still are handed down in many Japanese families. They sure aren't made of stainless. :D
 
I regularly use dome 01 and 1095 kitchen knives. As others have said, clean and dry when finished using it. One of the things I like about the carbon steel is that the patina is constantly changing because of the food it comes in contact with.

I wash and wipe it dry. may be once a week or so I coat the blades with a little mineral oil. Keeping them clean and dry seems to be the key for preventing rust for me. I usually will run the blade lightly over a steel two or three times before using it. They usually go a couple of months before I need to sharpen then on a stone.

If i find a rust spot, I use some 0000 steel wool and mineral oil to rub it out.

Ric
 
1095 is what my old ontario machete is made of. It has gone through all the stages I believe a carbon steel can. I am all for patinas on carbon steel but they are not an end all cure for red rust. Things I have found is the rust comes more when the water evaporates (nothing scientific). I think that is why when I put a mirror finish it is easier to wipe the moisture off. No scratches or peaks and valley like satin/beadblasted for water to sit. I don't worry about oil. If you are going to use a knife it will come right off. Patina will come right off too with use. I think just keeping it with a mirror finish (patina or not) and clean and dry as possible is the best advice for carbon steel.
 
A "forced" patina, coupled with keeping the blade clean and dry will significantly decrease, and in some cases even eliminate, the need for preservatives.

In my experience, lemon juice works quite well for the original patina.
 
Another good thing about WD 40 is that it helps dissolve off sticky tree sap if you do a lot of chopping or carving. I always seem to get some tree funk on my knives and the WD helps take it off. After their clean and sharp I put them away with some Breakfree CPL on them because that's what I have for my guns and it works. I don't obsess over then though. If they get a little rust, I just clean it off and don't worry about it. It's not like they get a chance to pit or anything.
 
Can anybody tell me how to get rust off a HC steel blade and if you can get digits out of the blade it's around 70 years old.
 
Whoa 5 year old thread. Nathan be careful because you might damage the knife if it's that old. Try mineral oil on a rag and rub the blade. You should probably make a thread and post pictures. Use drop box or imgur to post pictures.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top