Care of Antler

C

Cabbit

Joined
Apr 2, 2004
Messages
577
Real quick question, does the same care steps for Horn handles apply to Antler handles?
 
There was a thread here many moons ago with that information on it. I'm too lazy to look it up. Try doing a search for "bone" and see what that scares up.
 
Sadly the "search" function never works for me here. I always get a "This page canot be found" error.
 
Is antler bone?
Close to bone for purpose of care?

Here's a start:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2261855
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=277433

From:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=297937
"olive oil, right Use the cheapest stuff you can find. Find a very narrow jar that just fits a knife handle and doesn't need much oil to come up to the top. ...... This treatment works on ivory too, as well as deer and elk antler. The left-over oil lasts for years if you put the lid on when you're done."


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<> call me 'Dean' :)-FYI-FWIW-IIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TIA-YW-GL-HH-HBD-IBSCUTWS-TWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links--A--T--H--D
 
Soak the handle in a jar of mineral oil overnight --
 
I've never found the need to treat stag "antler" with anything, except, perhaps some past wax to bring out the color. I imagine my old standby, olive oil would work too. I'm not sure how porous deer antler is, it seems pretty dense - except for the stuff that's been on the ground too long, and it's worthless.
I'll bet glycerine would work, and might be good for horn too.
Mineral oil sounds good too - Thanks
 
Stolen Info Below

Ivory, bone, horn, and antler have been used to craft objects that run the gamut from everyday household items to intricate jewelry, carvings, and statues. The detailed scrimshaw done by 18th-century sailors is just one of many beautiful examples. With proper care these objects can last and be enjoyed for many years.

Ivory is a specialized form of tooth. The most common source is elephant tusk although other mammalian tusks (e.g. walrus, sperm whale tooth, and narwhal) have been used. A synthetic "ivory" was produced from cellulose nitrate in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Called "French" or "India" ivory, it resembles the real thing but its structure breaks down over time.

Bone looks similar to ivory but it is lighter in weight and usually not as white. A polished bone surface usually has small pits and what appears to be a lightly scratched surface; these are the exposed "tunnels" that permeate the bone.

Antler is a specialized form of bone that often has a rough textured surface.

Horn is made up of the same material found in fingernails or hooves.

Causes of Damage
Contact with the natural oils of skin or exposure to coloured materials can result in staining or darkening of ivory and bone. Over time, exposure to the environment can also produce some darkening in ivory which can be considered a patina.

Exposure to light can bleach ivory.

Insects can damage horn.

Extreme or rapid fluctuations in temperature and humidity cause small changes in dimensions of ivory, horn, bone, and antler, which can lead to cracking.

Liquids such as cleaning solution or even water can also cause damage.

Handling
Ensure that your hands are clean and dry before handling ivory, bone, horn, and antler.

Safeguard items from extreme or rapid changes in temperature or humidity; a display case will provide some protection against environmental fluctuations, dirt, and dust. Do not display ivory, bone, horn, and antler in direct sunlight, under bright lights, near heat or air-conditioning units, or near windows and exterior walls.

When storing items, wrap them in unbuffered, acid-free tissue paper or unbleached muslin and then place them in a sealed polyethylene bag (e.g. Ziploc freezer bag).

Do not use rubber-based materials (which can cause yellowing) to cushion items made of ivory.

A light dusting with a soft brush is often all that is needed to clean ivory, bone, horn, and antler objects. Ivory and horn that are in good condition (i.e. with a smooth, glossy surface) and have no applied decoration can be cleaned with a little water. Use a cotton swab (e.g. Q-tip), barely dampened, and dry the object immediately with another cotton swab or soft tissue. Do not attempt to clean porous bone or antler this way without first consulting a conservator. Do not use water on any object that is cracked or otherwise damaged. Never soak objects.

The cleaning and repair of ivory, bone, horn, and antler is a delicate procedure. If an object is very dirty or damaged, consult a professional conservator.
 
I don't think I'm goin to go with soaking the handle, rather, just wipe the handle periodically with mineral oil.
 
As long as it doesn't make the handle too slippery you might be right. I like a dry finish, myself.
 
Cabbit, it won't hurt it to soak it in glycerin. One of the experts, Charles Clements, over on the old Rec:Knives says that is the standard procedure for moistureizing old ivory such as is found on the old keris and the like. I bought an old, very old, keris with an ivory handle and tortiose shell inserts in the scabbard and I use glycerin on it. Nope, no Ballistol-Lube on this old piece.;) :D

Charles does exquisite leather work for the most particular of clients and has studied Silat for a good number of years and besides being an avid knife collector is very familar with all sorts of exotic materials.
 
Very interesting, I too collect Keris and study Silat.

Any idea where I ccould get ahold of some glycerine?
 
Cabbit said:
Very interesting, I too collect Keris and study Silat.

Any idea where I ccould get ahold of some glycerine?
Click to expand...
Cabbit, any good drugstore has glycerin, and it's nice that it is cheap too. One of the few "cheap" things for us knife collectors. If I sent you a pic of my what I think is a very old keris do you think you might be able to tell me something about it?:)
 
Cabbit said:
Any idea where I ccould get ahold of some glycerine?
Click to expand...
Farm supply (herd animals) sells glycerine by the gallon
very cheap compared to pharmacy
(& good supplier for light mineral oil, venice turpentine, pine tar,
hoof care products, other stuff)

~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
<> call me 'Dean' :)-FYI-FWIW-IIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TIA-YW-GL-HH-HBD-IBSCUTWS-TWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links--A--T--H--D
 
I just did a little clean up on my new Ganga Ram handle and took it up to a 4/0 steel wool finish and then spread on a thick layer of Bag Balm (used to soften and protect cow udders and as a hand cream.) It was just sitting there on the handle, so I decided to heat it up a bit with my heat gun. As soon as it got warm enough to liquify, it started to go into the horn as I had hoped. I got so excited, I accidentally burned myself on the barrel of the @#!!* heat gun. I put ice on the burn and looking around for some burn remedy, decided to try the Bag Balm. It was hurting some, so I rubbed it on, and it felt better. I washed the area with soap, spread some Balm on a band aid, and covered the burn area... and the next morning - no blister, no pain, end of story. Oh BTW, the horn sheds water... we'll see about long term cracking issues. It's not slippery and looks good too. Not shiny.
Also, I used Dean's corn starch and vinegar treatment to patina the blade, and it worked very nicely. Thanks.
 
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