How To Care of elk antler 110?

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SuzukiGS750EZ

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Dec 30, 2008
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Hey guys. I polish the nickel bolsters on my 110 every so often but it gets the black oxidation from the cleaner on the antler. I clean that off with rubbing alcohol or dawn dish detergent but i fear it'll eventually dry out. What do you do in order to protect and make sure the antler doesn't crack?
 
Blue masking tape where the bolster and cover meet if I polish the bolsters.
I've heard lemon oil helps keep the horn/antler from drying out.
I don't know if food grade mineral oil does.

The only knife I have with Elk covers is the 2018 BF Buck 301.
To date I have not had to do anything to the Elk Antler.
 
Last edited:
afishhunter said:
Blue masking tape where the bolster and cover meet if I polish the bolsters.
I've heard lemon oil helps keep the horn/antler from drying out.
I don't know if food grade mineral oil does.

The only knife I have with Elk covers is the 2018 BF Buck 301.
To date I have not had to do anything to the Elk Antler.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the ti . I hadn't thought about tape!
 
if you use the search or google and you'll find Bill Deshivs opinion being a knife maker who fixes old stag and elk knives for many makers of autos and such. you'll find lots of mineral oil suggestions as well, but Bill says dont do it. he has to repair ones done like that. he says makes them soft and weakens them. if you can't find the threads ill dig some up later for you and post links here.
 
Thinking about it, does antler or horn really need any maintenance?
I mean, hunters who mount trophies of any species that has antlers or horns (or shed antlers, for that matter) don't do anything to them after they are put up. Not that I know of, anyway.
 
I have only used lemon pledge furniture polish on stag, antler and Horn for 30 years now and they are still like new and look fantastic. About once a year I give them a light freshening and it seems they wipe clean easier but not slick or slippery. It cleans and provides a level of protection against moisture and dust doesn’t stick as much. And no discoloring.
 
I use Renaissance Wax as well, though I imagine any kind of wax that's not a combination cleaner/wax would do. I wouldn't trust the cleaner/waxes to not cause some kind of damage to the bone or antler.
 
I just use my own natural oil.

After rubbing my face or my hair I just rub down the handle.
I've never had any trouble with horn or antler knives.
But I have naturally oily hair and skin.
My wife says I'm wrinkle proof!
But keeping my own oil off my eye glasses is a PITA.
 
I think mineral oil is good if you feel a liquid is needed, I use to use Johnsons Floor wax on wood, bone and antler but have been converted to Renaissance Wax also. Its expensive, but a little goes a long way . A 65 ml container lasts me several years. Put it on the metal also. Let it dry an carefully polish to sheen. Oil joints with a small amount (drop) of Tuf-Glide. It dries to be a non-oily lubricant. If you have never touched or seen Ren Wax it is a white to clear very hard wax with almost no smell.
300
 
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