Caring for bead blasted finishes?

Joined
Sep 19, 2000
Messages
16
I have a Benchmade, I bought it a while ago, it is a copy of the CQC7, I guess, I don't remember what the model name was then or now. But I never really took care of it like I should have and it shows a little rust in some spots, is there any way to remove the rust spots? Or will Benchmade re-beadblast the blade for a fee? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
 
You may wish to check with Benchmade regarding rebeadblasting. That is certainly a possibility.

Caring for a beadblasted blade? This finish requires more care than other finishes and regular cleaning and oiling is required. Sentry's Tuf-Cloth is actually an outstanding blade protectant.

Ron@SOG



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Website: www.sogknives.com
Email: ron@sogknives.com
 
I also have the same knife. had the same problem too. some extra fine steel wool, light presure and oil will remove the spots but will also lighten the color of the blade. the problem is that the bead blasting provides little nooks and crannys that hold moisture(see sweat). after using the wool and oil i changed the surface on mine. no more rust a little brighter blade and no more little nooks and crannys. haven't had the problem since. hope this helps
smile.gif


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air cut through by steel,
the blade stops.
from silent stone,
death is preordained. FUDO 1627
 
Ron's suggestion of using Sentry Solutions TufCloth is the best way I've found to keep bead blasted finishes in good shape.

The Benchmade 975, which is probably what you have, was designed by Emerson. It was also the first one made and it's largely responsible for the CQC following. Emerson ended his relationship with Benchmade a few years back and opened his open business.

I have one that goes on canoe trips regularly. Which means, with my grace, it gets dunked at least once a day. It's survived 1½ years of monthly trips with no discoloration, rust, or staining. I do dry it off at the end of the day and wipe it down with a TufCloth. I also use the TufCloth after the blade is fouled by staining things like animal blood.

If it was around salt water, I'd go to the Sentry Solutions Marine TufCloth. It leaves a heavier coating and has been used by some elite armed services.

If you want to keep the bead blast, I'm sure someone around BF, if not Benchmade, could do it.

If a satin finish would be ok, go to a local paint store and buy some 3M Scotch-Brite Hand Pads:

#7447, maroon, 360-400 grit equivalent
#7448, gray, 800-1000 grit equivalent

If you'd rather have a mirror finish, after using the maroon and gray, then use

#7445, white, 1200-1500 qrit equivalent

It'll take some elbow work, but these really do work great. I belive Spyderco uses an industrial version on their knives.

Good luck!

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Knowledge without understanding is knowledge wasted.
Understanding without knowledge is a rare gift - but not an impossibility.
For the impossible is always possible through faith. - Bathroom graffiti, gas station, Grey, TN, Dec, 1988


AKTI Member #A000831

[This message has been edited by Codeman (edited 10-13-2000).]
 
If I want a non-reflective blade, it'll have a coat like on a ka-bar. I think you should just polish it to mirror polish, i'll rust a lot less. You can blue it afterwards to prevent reflection, but a coat looks more tactical.

greetz, Bart.

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"If the world wouldn't SUCK, we'd all fall off !"

member of the BKS
http://www.expage.com/belgianknives
 
Thanks for the suggestions, I will be trying them in the next few days. I appreciate the suggestions, and will be getting a Tuff-cloth as well. Thanks again.
 
whenecer i buy a new knife that is beadblasted i completely emerse all metal parts, (blade, clip ect.) in breakfree and let it soak overnight, if not longer. i then lean it on end to drain all excess oil, and wipe all excess off. it will protect it for a couple of months, but must be done again. it really works well and soaks into the metal pores.
 
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