Case sodbuster blade play revisited

K

KHarper

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Jan 4, 2019
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I didn't want to necro the old thread from 2011, but I thought it was relevant enough to add a new thread for those who are in a similar boat.
I recently bought a yaller chrome-vanadium Case Sob Buster Jr at a hardware store. I think it must have been sitting for a while, because the box looked older and there was slight rust on the bevel of the blade. And most significantly the instructions were printed only in English; I liked that little sodbuster so well...it was so very sharp and classy looking and tight...that I ordered a full sized matching-color sodbuster to keep it company. The new one came in a different, more modern looking box with a little tissue-paper sheet all folded up twenty times written in 6 different languages. And it had a loose blade. I didn't notice until I had started sharpening it (and sliced my thumb pretty good when the blade slipped off the stone, stupid. Hopefully it wasn't a sign that the knife is hostile to me!), so I couldn't just return in to Smoky Mountain Knife Works to get a different one. I am not too picky about my knives; I don't mind a bit of fore and aft play at all, and I can live with a bit of lateral play in an old, worn blade or one that it is just inherent to the design. But this was real play, like visible wobble, and half the reason I ordered it was because I expected it to be superior quality and workmanship. A wobbly blade on a brand new knife doesn't scream "careful craftsmanship" to me. I considered sending it to Case for repair, but I was really loath to send my brand new toy away so soon. But that wobbly blade would also drive me nuts!
Anyway, I found this page which recommended trying a vice or mallet to tighten it. I've had good luck using a mallet to tighten riveted knives before several times, but I wouldn't have considered trying a pinned one unless I read it here. I just wanted to report (at length, obviously) that it worked like a charm. I wrapped in in newspaper and set it on a sturdy anvil (that I think is important, a good solid surface for an anvil), and rapped it a few times with a rubber mallet. That didn't do any good. So I switched to a 16oz metal framing hammer, and gave it two smart raps, and it came out just as tight as I could ask for. No wobble at all. If it returns I'll either whack it again, or send it to Case when I am no longer so infatuated with it (say a couple weeks).
Meanwhile, I am disappointed that the large sodbuster has a differently shaped blade; the belly sweeps up more gently, making a more pointy looking blade. It's okay, but I really like the shape of the smaller soddie, and I expected the large to be the same, only bigger.
I also wish that they made a nice MEDIUM sodbuster. It's one of those cases where the Junior is just a wee bit small for a daily carry knife and the fullsize is just a smidge too large for convenient carry. I wish they made a Case sodbuster the size of an Opinel No.7 or No.8, or a Buck 112 Ranger, if you prefer. I think that'd be the perfect knife. That was how I had always pictured the Case sodbuster to myself when I had considered buying it before.
I also wish they'd make the blades less shiny. I read they are "satin", but I'd have said "mirror finish". They will easily reflect a blade-shaped pool of light onto a surface if you move them around under a lightbulb, and they take fingerprints like nothing else I have, unless it's a Spyderco Tenacious or Ontario RAT-1. Both of which I took sandpaper to to dull the finish down a bit. In this case sticking the blade in vinegar helped some because they are not stainless steel.
Here's my pair of soddies with a Opinel No.8 in the middle. A stock 8 is slightly longer, because the blade has been ground to a drop point, and the handle is slightly bulkier because some material has been removed. But a soddie of roughly this size would be very welcome, I suspect.
8ZZQpdk.jpg

Note the tiny cracks in the scales by the middle pins of the small soddie? I assume that these are defects, but I decided that I liked them because they make the scales suggest bone, which I think the yellow color was supposed to simulate to start with. The cracks make it seem even more so. I should recommend this to Case.
 
I have a large Sodbuster in CV as well. I enjoyed it for a while, but it developed major blade wobble after cutting out coconut meat. Too much scooping motion while cutting I guess.

I whacked it a few times but was concerned I was going to crack the scales. I have since put it away and not used it. Maybe I’ll dig it out and try again.

One thing I learned from this, is that although it’s a big knife it is important to remember it is still a slipjoint and not a fixed blade! :)

I still really like Case knives and the Sodbuster model. It’s a fine cutting tool when used accordingly.
 
The seller of the large sod buster you bought it from shows pictures of all their knives. Therefore, you should have noticed the difference between your small sod buster's blade and the large sod buster's blade.

Good luck with your new knife. The Case Sod Buster, regardless of size and blade shape, is a useful knife.
 
I had a large Sodbuster get a bit wobbly but I tightened it up in my bench vise. I do wish Case would make a medium sized one too, but thats easily fixed by getting a GEC Bullnose. :D
 
Guess I'm "lucky". My Sod Buster Jr. hasn't developed any wiggly wobblies. Or is that something only the large Sod Busters have a habit of doing?
(I don't know, since I've never had a large one.)
 
The Maserin Plow pretty neatly splits the difference between the Case Sodbuster and its Jr. counterpart. D2 steel at a pretty economical price.
 
iPRNpal.jpg

I don't have a full sized Case example, however the Rough Rider and Bear&Sons are relatively the same size. While not exactly in the middle the GEC 71 Bullnose is a bit longer than the Jr. In both handle and blade. While I cant speak personally of Bear&Sons quality on other patterns the yellow G10 sodbuster I have is good,although the lockback mechanism is stiff. It has more belly to the blade more in line to the Jr's.
 
Incidentally the Bear&Sons is the knife that got me back into traditionals after riding the Kershaw and Gerber wagon for a long time. I wish I would have bought one of the slipjoint models as well, however the hardware store where I bought it has changed ownership and they no longer carry them.
 
I have about 6-8 CASE Sod Busters and none have any play.. Just sayin..;)
John
 
The two-piece cutlery rivets used in the pivot of the Case Sod Buster are somewhat prone to pulling apart, IF the blade is torqued laterally too much. On the upside, they're also pretty easy to squeeze tight again, in the jaws of a vise.

I have a large 2138 SS (stainless) Sod Buster that originally had some blade wobble when I acquired it. Got it for $13 on the 'Bay' several years ago, in as-new condition otherwise. So, I didn't fret too much about the lateral play. I was able to tighten it up in my Pana-Vise with a gentle squeeze. No problems since then.

I'm in the same 'wish' camp, in that I've wished a 'medium' Sod Buster were available, sized like the No. 08 Opinel or the Buck 112 (I have several of both of these). I've also wished the blade in the large model were the same ultra-thin high hollow grind as with the smaller model ('37 pattern), which makes for a fantastic slicer. The larger one is still pretty nice, albeit with a thicker flat grind.
 
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The hammer or mallet method is easy as pie. Just put the joint between two paper magazines on a hard surface. Tap to effect.
 
Modoc ED said:
The seller of the large sod buster you bought it from shows pictures of all their knives. Therefore, you should have noticed the difference between your small sod buster's blade and the large sod buster's blade.

Good luck with your new knife. The Case Sod Buster, regardless of size and blade shape, is a useful knife.
Click to expand...
I don't see how. It's a pretty subtle difference, and photos can make things look different sometimes. I thought it looked slightly different, but I assumed it was the angle or something. It's not a big deal, just a very slight disappointment. I'm already over it. And probably after I've been sharpening on it for a while, the point will be much more rounded!
 
abcdef said:
The hammer or mallet method is easy as pie. Just put the joint between two paper magazines on a hard surface. Tap to effect.
Click to expand...
What I've been wondering after hearing about the blade loosening with use is whether one can tighten the blade using this method multiple times, or just once or twice. I mean, the blade came loose, so I tightened it. If if develops wobble again, can I just go back and whack it a few times and tighten it up again? Or is it a one-time fix? Could you theoretically do it any number of times, or does the pivot pin get a bit looser every time, and eventually it won't stay tight for more than a few days before loosing up.
I'd like to see a Case Sod Buster disassembled, I'm curious to see how exactly the pin or pins fit together.
 
They use a 1/8" cutlers rivet that is a press fit male/female. The big birdseye look is only an exterior washer. It will probably get to a point of not tightening as well. I have not had a wobble problem, but I rotate about a dozen 2138's so nothing gets beat up much. Have several that I have drilled out the brass pivot, enlarged the holes and replaced with a 3/16 stainless threaded barrel. Torx screws can always be tightened if need, but they hold firm with some teflon tape. The pivot now becomes lifetime.

My problem particularly with later year models is an anemic backspring. I prefer and use the linerlock sodbuster and Rough Rider work knives for safety more often. To enhance the tension of the hold open on the slipjoint, I remove the center pin, and deepen/bend the arch of the backspring, reassemble using a c clamp to compress, replace the pin and you have a blade that holds open with authority.

Late models also look like a drunk shaped the handles, so I reshape and smooth, then put a smidge of a drop point on the blade tip.
 
Misplaced Hillbilly said:
Just as an after thought I wonder in appropriate sized Chicago screws would work? View attachment 1340457
Chicago screws, btw
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Wow, somehow this gives me strong deja vu, like I've seen this exact post before, photos and all. I guess it's not unlikely I saw something similar. But I'm glad you posted it, that's very helpful. Yes, I can see how using a lot of side force could loosen that up, and how it could perhaps refuse to tighten properly again.
I like the idea about bending the back spring; I'm accustomed to using a Cognet douk-douk, and those things have really forceful springs in them. Most slipjoints feel kind of puny afterwards, and I wouldn't mind having a stiffer spring in the Sodbuster. I think it'd be an improvement in most respects. You say the center pin is all that holds it in? And it just knocks out with a punch, or what? I have some tools and a vise from puttering around with guns and stuff, so I can probably do most anything if I get a little creative.
Now that I've gotten thinking about it, I suppose I could just take the whole thing apart and grind a flat spot on the back of the blade heel(?) to make it a 2-step slipjoint while I'm at it (I forget the correct term for that). Is drilling out the pivot pin the only way to remove them, or could one carefully wedge the frames apart and force the halves of the pins apart? I suppose that would risk bending or mutilating the soft brass frames though, so probably not worth it. Would be nice if you could just source spares from Case directly....
Sorry, just think out loud, sort of. I like the sound of mucking with things though. I don't usually totally ruin them...:p
 
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