As far as I'm concerned, the whole learning curve with Case's Tru-Sharp Stainless, or other steels of similar makeup and hardness (Victorinox, etc.), all comes down to dealing with the burrs. Case's blades and the other similar ones frustrated me for some time before I figured that out. The ductile or 'bendy' nature of the burrs means they'll keep hanging on - and even become worse if the pressure used on the stone is too heavy. Same is true, if the stone itself is glazed, clogged or otherwise impaired in its ability to cleanly cut the steel without bending over the edge (burring).
I initially had a lot of trouble with burring when using ceramic hones with this steel. Ceramics are prone to loading up quickly if they're not kept clean while working. And they'll also punish results if the touch is too heavy in using them. Both of these factors will aggravate the burring issues. Same is true with other similar steels, such as Victorinox's blades.
My favorite approach these days, for Case's stainless, is to use a simple Fine India stone to set the edges. Finish on the same stone with an increasingly light touch, to gently abrade the burrs away without forcing the apex to roll over (burring). Then I refine further, and clean up any remaining remnants of burrs on the medium rods of my Spyderco Sharpmaker, using THE ABSOLUTE LIGHTEST TOUCH I can manage - I equate the pressure used with simply wiping dust from the surface of the ceramic rods using the blade's edge. Nothing heavier than that. Case's stainless blades take a wickedly sharp edge this way. And I do most of the follow-up tune-ups using the same medium ceramic on the SM. This routine has made these blades very simple to deal with, for me. And for what it's worth, I handle Case's CV and Buck's 420HC in exactly the same manner, also with excellent results. The slightly harder CV and Buck blades won't burr as much, and they tend to take a slightly finer finish (not quite as toothy) as the Case stainless when sharpened this way. But they still get exquisitely sharp and hold it well.
I have found that Case's Tru-Sharp takes and holds a medium-grit toothy edge somewhat better than it will hold a very polished edge. If polish is taken very far, with the included extra thinning of the apex, the steel's hardness falls somewhat short of being able to keep the apex from rolling or flattening too quickly in use. But it holds up better at a finish afforded by a stone like the Fine India (360-400 or so), and very, very lightly refined on the medium Ceramic.
Edited to add:
As with many factory blades from many makers, another thing to be aware of might relate to the edges being weakened by overheating during factory edge-setting or deburring. If the edge on a new knife seems unusually weak or unstable, a few resharpenings will usually remove that weakened, heat-damaged steel near the apex, after which the edge becomes more stable down the road.
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