Ceramic platen on a 2x72 belt grinder

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Jan 13, 2014
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In 3 weeks I will have to grind 50 knives in one week,

I'm actually running 1/4" thick coated ceramic on an aluminum back plate. It's really efficeint with heat. Even after 1 hour of grinding, it still cold but It wear pretty fast.

I was thinking of making an hardened tool steel platen.

Is it a good idea? Or I'm going to put 100$ in the garbage?

A pic of my actual set-up.
 
I believe it is a waste of time to go the hardened metal way. SORRY Laurence. The pyro ceran glass is a much better choice and probably much cheaper overall. Most glass shops will sell or even give you pieces and of course can cut it to size too.. The hardened metal doesn't last very long and will show worn areas that will affect the quality of your grinding. Frank
 
I get about 100 blades on a hard steel platen before needing to flatten it, and I don't use a good platen for profiling. A well used hard steel platen is shiny and smooth without ruts or dents for several months of production grinding.

The grinding belts we all use are designed for different applications and have been adopted by knifemakers. Some are intended to be used on centerless grinders and a contact wheel, some should not be used wet or damp etc and can form abrasive rubbery black crud that sticks to both the platen and the belt. If you see buildup forming on the platen you're getting it on the belt too and that buildup will contain abrasive grit that was formulated to cut hard steel. Under some conditions a hard platen can show damage in a single belt, it just depends on the grinding conditions.

Just to be clear, everybody here knows I make hardened platens, and I'm not trying to say that a hard platen is a panacea for all grinding problems. But a hard platen does grind smoother (lower coefficient of friction) does hold its shape longer and conducts heat and static better than nonmetallic materials. But eventually you'll need to mill, lap or grind it flat when it gets wonky.

A good application for a steel platen plays to its strengths such as the ability to machine a radius into the end for grinding the plunge when grinding lengthwise and the ability to conduct heat when cooling with ice water. A bad application is simply slapping an expensive precision made platen onto a grinder and beating the piss out of it. For that, someone should use something hard and disposable like glass or ceramic.
 
I'm now using Norton belt (orange one, don't remember the name) and they form lot less "abrasive rubbery black crud" that mke it sticks to the platen.

@ Nathan: what is the hardness of your platen?

Do someone try a hard chrome platen?
 
Tandem Expédition;13531334 said:
@ Nathan: what is the hardness of your platen?

Do someone try a hard chrome platen?

I get them as hard as I can, but everything needs some temper. They test at ~62-63, which will scratch glass, but still much softer than the abrasives used in grinding belts.

Chrome will still wear and would complicate flattening. I'm not sure I'd want hard chrome, but I haven't tried it.
 
I have one of Nathan's hardened steel platens attached to one of his chillers which uses circulating water to cool the platen. Here is a tip you might want to try: Rifle shooters who load their own ammunition have to lubricate their brass cases before running them through a sizing die. An excellent product is Hornaday One Shot case lube in a spray can. You spray the cases and it dries within a minute and leaves an invisible slick coating. I spray my platen after wiping it clean with acetone each time I begin a session with the flat platen. It makes them less slippery and cause less buildup of crud. I also spray it on the platen of my 4 x 36 benchtop grinder. It is about $10 a can and lasts a good while. It probably make the belt run cooler too but I cannot prove this since I use the chiller. Summer time in Bakersfield is many days of 100 plus degrees so anything helps. Larry
 
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