checkering files...???

P. McKinley

P. McKinley

Joined
Jan 27, 2008
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I'm on the hunt for a checkering file. I'd like to do both checkered sections on wooden handles, as well as coined spacers and guards and such.

I'm looking for an explanation of what "cut" refers too, and a recommendation on the proper LPI and cut.

Thanks,
-Peter
 
Peter, the 20 lpi is the smallest amount as far as I know. It's the only one I've used, but I know there are 30 and more.
I bought mine from Jantz, but I'm sure there's other places to buy them. I believe it's a Grobet file.
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I got mine from Otto Frei. I think mine is a 00 cut. If I remember correctly (probably not) it might be 16 lpi. Anyway, they have lots of fun stuff there but pricey.

http://www.ottofrei.com
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Checkering files are generally used on metal. Checkering tools for wood are entirely different, and are available from Brownells inc.
Click to expand...
This. 20 lpi files are good for jimping and 30 lpi+ for "coining." Of course, the problem is that you can't readily file inside curves.
 
Cut is courseness of the file, and subsequently finish quality. 00 is the most course when dealing with swiss pattern files, the higher the number, the finer the teeth, and the nicer the finish.
 
I buy from Ottofrei and I take both types:
"Cut 00 LPSI: 20 and cut 0 LPSI: 30"
I suggest you buy both sizes, these two pictures to try to better explain.

This is with cut 0 (on 0.15" steel thickness)


This is with cut 00 (on 0.2" steel thickness)
 
As far as "coining" goes, I wonder if you would even use a file... Depending on how round the handle is, you might have to use a file with a single row of teeth. I'm thinking a thin hacksaw blade might work. Like, by taking it to the grinder and thinning it out maybe? Then again, using a regular checkering file would probably keep the lines straighter.

It's tempting to either cut a quarter in half(full tang) or drill a hole in it(hidden tang). Lol
 
If you are filing the outside of the curve it is not really a problem as long as you can get two teeth to grab a little.
JG Custom Metal Works said:
As far as "coining" goes, I wonder if you would even use a file... Depending on how round the handle is, you might have to use a file with a single row of teeth. I'm thinking a thin hacksaw blade might work. Like, by taking it to the grinder and thinning it out maybe? Then again, using a regular checkering file would probably keep the lines straighter.

It's tempting to either cut a quarter in half(full tang) or drill a hole in it(hidden tang). Lol
Click to expand...
 
The checkering files for steel will be a tough job on the file on hardened steel so do it pre-HT.
Most of my attempts have been on pistols , usually on front and back straps for better gripping. Taken to sharp points that may be uncomfortable in a long shooting match and hard on clothing when carrying like the S&W M39. Mine are always "flat top checkering" giving a very firm grip without any problems.
 
"Coining" on liners and such is best done with a knurling tool-which will work on inside curves.
They are much quicker and more precise than checkering files.
 
Thank you folks

Bill- I just watched a couple of videos on the use of both knurling and checkering tools. Thank you for the tips.

-Peter
 
mete said:
The checkering files for steel will be a tough job on the file on hardened steel so do it pre-HT.
Most of my attempts have been on pistols , usually on front and back straps for better gripping. Taken to sharp points that may be uncomfortable in a long shooting match and hard on clothing when carrying like the S&W M39. Mine are always "flat top checkering" giving a very firm grip without any problems.
Click to expand...


FWIW I've used Grobet checkering files on 50 RC springs with no problem at all, but it would be very hard on 58-62 hardened blades, although a spot temper with a torch in that area would make it viable. Just adding this here for the sake of info, in case anybody is interested.

Grobet files are very good, very hard, as good or better than the old US made Nicholsons, you'd be amazed what they'll cut. I use a small half round needle file for touching up the choil notch of my slipjoints all the time, when they're 62 RC. It's definitely hard on the file, but it cuts much better than you'd expect.
 
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