I grind like a normal knife, i.e. scribe the edge on and grind a steep starter bevel to the line. Then I start walking that start bevel up towards the spine. Many times I will do as Don says, grind at some point with the spine up to tune spine thickness and taper, then remove the material between the edge bevel and spine. I don't adhere to any one technique, rather I will often find myself grinding lengthwise, widthwise, spine or edge up, diagonally, whatever the blade is needing at the moment.
Are you using AEB-L? It often warps like an SOB, whether heat treated or not. Using sharp belts helps, alternating a few passes each side, keeping it cool as well. Sometimes not a lot can be done to fix them if they warp, I have had success with shimmed tempers when necessary, but often they will take more work and overcorrection than say a 52100 blade will.
They say that it is because AEB-L comes off of a roll, so has a tendency to return to a curved shape. Could be, but I have seen that it will often curve whatever direction the grinder promotes. Many times the side being ground will become the top of a bow in the stock, which can be exasperating to the learner, as the wish to then remove that high point will lead to yet more bowing!
I have a theory about what may sometimes be the mechanism- if using anything but a nice sharp belt, part of what the abrasive grits are doing is peening rather than cutting, which increases surface area slightly at the grind. This the causes the steel to bow away from that point, much like the Berardo hammer-straightening technique. I think AEB-L is particularly susceptible to this. It seems to occur more markedly in hardened blades. Speaking of said Berardo technique, I've tried it on AEB-L but it doesn't work for me- I quench that steel and follow with dryo (dry-ice, not true cryo) then temper pretty lightly, so 62 rc. All I can say is you'd better have a pretty well hardened straightening hammer face to make a dent (literally) in that stuff. I suppose you could make a super-hard straightening hammer.
But then, sometimes it will bow the other direction, pulling toward the grinder. Especially on the surface grinder, it wants nothing more than for the ends to cup up toward the stone. I'll admit sometimes I still chase the stuff in circles!
Plate quenching after profiling, before bevel grinding, and keeping it cool are the best prevention, and that's the best cure- chasing warp out of AEB-L sucks.
