Chicago screws for IWB loop

O

Olive Tree

Joined
Jun 14, 2012
Messages
106
Hi everybody!
I'm considering using IWB pull-the-dot loops in order to carry some of my knives; the place where I'm buying them sells the loops without any hardware and I need to buy the Chicago screws to mount them. My (simple) problem is that I'm not sure about the length of the screws. The sheaths I use have 1/4" rivets and are made of .080" kydex so I suppose that .1875" screws should do the job, but I'm not sure and I can't find any info on google.
Thanks for your advices.
 
Longer post and longer screw Chicago screws can be shortened to the exact length you need on any grinding or sanding tool you may have access to……even hand filing. I've never been able to grow them longer if they are too short. So buy them a little long if you are not sure of the exact length you need.

Paul
 
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I concur. I buy my hardware long (Chi screws, rivets) and just grind em down with either of the belt Sanders that I use for leather work.
 
Oh, forgot to say, if you do use a belt grinder, keep a separate belt for metal work. After pooching my work a couple of times I keep a belt for metal work and a belt for dyed work. Either will contaminate your natural leather.
 
Actually I've just started with kydex and no, I don't have a belt grinder. I use files (and time). I'll give leather a shot one day; kydex seemed an easier way to start. Thanks for the advice, anyway, everything helps.
 
Olive Tree said:
Hi everybody!
I'm considering using IWB pull-the-dot loops in order to carry some of my knives; the place where I'm buying them sells the loops without any hardware and I need to buy the Chicago screws to mount them. My (simple) problem is that I'm not sure about the length of the screws. The sheaths I use have 1/4" rivets and are made of .080" kydex so I suppose that .1875" screws should do the job, but I'm not sure and I can't find any info on google.
Thanks for your advices.
Click to expand...

The .187(3/16) Chicago screw will be sort...(you have to add the eyelet roll on both sides of your kydex,that`s .080+.080 plus the eyelet roll )I use the 1/4 Chicago for the .080 kydex and the screw that goes in the snap is 3/8 length

http://www.ifithermoplastics.com/products/posts/kbp250
http://www.ifithermoplastics.com/products/screws/k5375flat
 
sonil said:
The .187(3/16) Chicago screw will be sort...(you have to add the eyelet roll on both sides of your kydex,that`s .080+.080 plus the eyelet roll )I use the 1/4 Chicago for the .080 kydex and the screw that goes in the snap is 3/8 length

http://www.ifithermoplastics.com/products/posts/kbp250
http://www.ifithermoplastics.com/products/screws/k5375flat
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info and for the links, very helpful!
And thanks to Mr. Sastre, too. By the way, I really like your works.
 
sheathmaker said:
I've never been able to grow them longer if they are too short.
Click to expand...
Paul, the screw stretcher is at the hardware store between the board stretcher and the tile stretcher.
;-)

Funny story I almost sent a buddy of mine to the store one time for a board stretcher in the middle of a job, he had his jacket on and keys in hand and I didn't have the heart to let him drive away.
 
Omega Leather Works said:
...grind em down...
Click to expand...
Pro tip:
If you have a nut that fits your threads, it's great to thread the nut onto the bolt or screw, thread it up toward the head, above where you're cutting or grinding. That way if the threads get messed up as you are grinding, you just unscrew the nut and it reforms your threads as it comes off.
 
ColdDeadHand said:
Pro tip:
If you have a nut that fits your threads, it's great to thread the nut onto the bolt or screw, thread it up toward the head, above where you're cutting or grinding. That way if the threads get messed up as you are grinding, you just unscrew the nut and it reforms your threads as it comes off.
Click to expand...
That's a great idea. I'll see if I have a suitable nut. Haven't had any problems when grinding either piece but ya never know and I have been waiting for the problem to happen. ;)
 
Good Idea. I keep a tap and die set handy for fixing Corby's after grinding them down. Never had too on a Chigago. They seem to just work out when I grind em down maybe I've been lucky.
 
Horsewright said:
Good Idea. I keep a tap and die set handy for fixing Corby's after grinding them down. Never had too on a Chigago. They seem to just work out when I grind em down maybe I've been lucky.
Click to expand...
Tap and die. That's one of those tools that I can't believe I've gotten along without for so long. That and an air compressor. Even have a bunch of air tools inexplicably.

Well that's good to hear about the Chi screws. I've ground down Tandy, Weaver and fastenal hardware and haven't had to fiddle either. Yet.
 
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