Chisel to knife conversion

[ScottEnglish]

Firstly, thanks to all who contributed to my few threads about leatherwork knives. Having considered what folk said, I spent time looking online for a high-quality knife for my specific needs. I have not been able to find one. Instead, I am considering buying a thin splitting chisel and reducing the bevel angle so that it is appropriate for working leather.

The chisel is made out of chrome vandium tool steel. Having mailed the manufacturer they replied with the hardness: 54-58 HRC. Do you knifemakers think this steel and hardness suitable for converting in to a knife?

Thanks.

Scott

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I am curious what type of leather knife you want that can't be found? Can you post a photo or sketch of what you want?

Like in your other thread, you want to make something out of something that isn't what you want. Rc54-58 and chrome-vanadium steel (a rather unspecific nomenclature) is suitable for some knife tasks, but much higher hardness and better steel choice would be preferable.

If you have a ford sedan and want an Astin Martin, you can tear it apart, rebuild it, do a lot of body work, and get something that looks a bit like an Astin Martin. It won't perform like one, though. Of you could buy an Astin Martin and have what you want. If you really want to make it a DYI, you could build one from scratch. All these options are possible, but the results will vary.

So, what are your good options:
1) Buy the tool you want from a good supply company. Leatherworking companies are worldwide. There are many in the UK and EU. Even shipping from the USA wouldn't be prohibitive.

2) make one from scratch yourself. Buy some high carbon Japanese Blue Paper steel from Workshop Heaven or Dictum and make your knife. Have the HT done by someone who knows what to do right. This is the cheapest solution. The result depends on your skill and equipment. It can be done with a file, sharpening stones, and elbow grease if you are patient.

3) Have the knife made for you. There are thousands of knifemakers in the UK/EU and many thousands more in the rest of the world. Post your design here or on another knife forum and see if someone can help you make it. British Blades would be a good place to start if you want to stay in the UK.

 

[Horsewright]

I too am very curious as to what it is you are looking for? I've cut up a few dead cows over the last few decades and I just have a hard time believing ya can't find, whether off the shelf or custom, something thats gonna work for you. I literally started with a Case trapper back in the last ice age and while hardly ideal, it did cut leather.

As far as the technical aspects of your question 54 to 58 is pretty soft for a leather working knife. I have found much harder ones to be ideal. More time cutting and less time touching up the knife. Mine run at about 63 RC. More importantly than hardness in my opinion is type of steel and stock thickness. This again depends on the type of knife you are wanting to build. A roundknife/headknife for making sheaths, .040 is pretty ideal. For a Paul Long type skiver (think of a very flexible and thin but extremely sharp butter knife), and .040 is ideal there too. If you are looking for more of a push skiver or Japanese Utility/leather type knife a lil thicker is better, .070-.100 perhaps.

I use to make quite a few leather knives as well as using em. AEB-L is just about the perfect leather knife steel. It'll take a highly polished razor edge, hold it respectively and touch up easily. That its stainless is a benefit cause depending on what you are doing ya might be cutting cased/damp leather. I don't make leather knives anymore but knowing what you are wanting and what type of leather you will be cutting and what the projects are would be helpful.

Push skiver:

Roundknife:

Paul Long Skiver:

Whole shooting match:

I do on occasion cut up some leather, so do have some personal experience and opinions on some of this stuff:

Not just sheaths:

Anyhoo ya get the idea. Love to help ya out but could use some more info.

 

[ScottEnglish]

Thank you Stacy E. Apelt and Horsewright for taking the time to reply to my post and for your advice. Thanks too Horsewright for the photos.

The knife I wish to make is very simple. It is like a Japanese skiving knife but without the wooden handle so you can skive bevel up. I have successfully reshaped an English style paring knife I own, but the back of the knife isn't flat across the width and hours of rubbing it upon my Norton Crystolon combination stone, which is regularly lapped for flatness and to resurface it, has not flattened the back of the knife. A miserable experience: hence my interest in the softer, splitting chisel.

However, as you have both said a higher hardness than 54-58 HRC is preferable. As I cannot justify the cost of a custom knife I will persevere with reshaping and flattening the backs of my English style paring knives.

Scott

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

If you find a nearby knifemaker or make a connection with one in the UK. they would likely help you flatten the existing knife of make a new one that is what you want.

BTW, a leather or woodworking knife can be made with a bent tang so it can be used flat against the work surface. Japanese saya chisels are made this way.

If you are spending hours on a stone and getting no results in metal removal, there is something wrong. Most likely the stone is clogged.
Re-flatten on your master stone then scrub it out well with a vegetable brush and dish soap. Blast it off with a pressure washer if needed. Then dry in a 250°F/120°C oven for a few hours. Reoil and let the oil soak in for a while, re-oil and try the stone again. A coarse Norton Crystalon stone should be cutting into a paring knife like coarse sandpaper on pine.

Not sure why you can't get a good skiving knife in the UK. The one shown below is from Amazon for about 9 Euro. A really good handmade Japanese one is about 50 Euro.

I will tell you something that I am sure Horsewright will agree with. The leather grade you are using and the surface you are cutting on is more important as the knife you use.

 

[Pinoy Knife]

Guys please forgive my "Stupid" Question/Comment .. that looks like a Sharpened "Putty" knife !!
i have several "Old ones" mine get used to scrape off worn out sand paper from my disc grinder..
why not just look for 1 that is hardened higher ? or re heat treat one ?? i'm pretty sure "Making "one
would only require a piece of 1095 "Spring Stock" like 75-90 thousands thick and putting a handle on it..