Choosing a Splitting Axe

3

348win

Joined
Jan 7, 2021
Messages
29
Hi,

I'm a new member and am excited to get into vintage axes. I'm new to splitting wood by hand but not to processing firewood. I've grown up in the woods and work with my hands for a living as a mechanic. My goal is to split wood with no gasoline powered log splitter, and enjoy the peacefulness of having the mind off daily life and seeing a nice pile of wood when complete, knowing I'm saving $$$ on heat bills.

I live in the Northeast of the U.S. and am splitting hardwoods for firewood.

I started splitting with a home depot job husky 3 1/2lb fiberglass handled axe in hopes of liking the lighter axe over a maul. It works but wayy off balance.

I'm gonna submit this post so I don't lose it by accident
 
So the fiberglass worked OK but I bought wood handled heavier 4 lb husky home depot job with "wanna be" scallops to help It not stick in wood. The fatter wood handle is wayyyyy better on my hands and the wood soaks up the shock that the fiberglass (must have steel rod in it) resonates.

So since I overanalyze everything I do and am a mechanic/machinist type guy now I'm reading into axe geometry. I also watch Buckin Billy Ray.

I believe I want a high cheek 4lb-5lb axe like a PLUMB CONNECTICUT or the WARREN RAFTING axe looks especially cool. Like a axe/maul coming in at just over 4lbs.

I found I like the 34" and 35" handles to split right on the ground. I'm bucking it up into rounds after I fall it, then splitting it right there before it goes into truck to be stacked. This way I'm handling light wood splits and no big heavy rounds.

I think those rafting axes look cool, especially if there is convex to the cheeks the shorter bit shouldn't stick in the wood.

I'm trying to get away from sticky axes and am after that clam shell shaped axe to try. I have NO experience with convex high cheek axes yet but am very anxious to get one.
 
I also like rafting axe pattern for splitting. Mine is a is Kelly Flint Edge on a 27" haft as I always split off a chopping block. Plumb made a fine rafting axe as well- even some with a waffled or checkered poll- though those command a high price.

The hardened poll means you can bang a wedge though I still avoid heavy beating on steel wedges as that can bulge the eye wall after a while. Sledge hammer heads are cheap if you have very large or twisted rounds to bust.
Bill
 
It looked to me like the plumb rafting axes were the flatter wedge type with very little convex.

Thanks for responding
 
348win said:
So the fiberglass worked OK but I bought wood handled heavier 4 lb husky home depot job with "wanna be" scallops to help It not stick in wood. The fatter wood handle is wayyyyy better on my hands and the wood soaks up the shock that the fiberglass (must have steel rod in it) resonates.

So since I overanalyze everything I do and am a mechanic/machinist type guy now I'm reading into axe geometry. I also watch Buckin Billy Ray.

I believe I want a high cheek 4lb-5lb axe like a PLUMB CONNECTICUT or the WARREN RAFTING axe looks especially cool. Like a axe/maul coming in at just over 4lbs.

I found I like the 34" and 35" handles to split right on the ground. I'm bucking it up into rounds after I fall it, then splitting it right there before it goes into truck to be stacked. This way I'm handling light wood splits and no big heavy rounds.

I think those rafting axes look cool, especially if there is convex to the cheeks the shorter bit shouldn't stick in the wood.

I'm trying to get away from sticky axes and am after that clam shell shaped axe to try. I have NO experience with convex high cheek axes yet but am very anxious to get one.
Click to expand...

My advice if you are looking for an axe that works and splits better than anything else especially for the money I recommend the fiskars x27 and have recommended it for years. I had to supply 4 houses with wood for winter and it just outworked everything else.

If you just don't like the handles and love vintage axes the high centerline Dayton patterns are great and and Kelly flint edges /council jersey patterns with the phantom bevels are excellent splitter .i have always loved rafting axes and have a large collection of plumb and Kelly rafters.
 
I've been watching those axe patterns on fleabay for awhile, and they go pretty high for just the head. Others with convex cheeks are less, but the heavier ones are not that common. What about a Jersey or Plumb rockaway pattern and phantom bevels or maybe a wedge pattern like Maine axes? I've got a Stihl splitting maul, a Granfors bruks large splitting axe with 36 inch handle, and these are good splitters. But, I bit the bullet and bought a Fiskars X27 large super splitting axe with a 36 inch handle and 4 pound head for about $50-60. The handle is not as good as using a wood handled splitter, but the thing splits very well. I had about 30 feet of 34 inch dbh dead hickory tree that I used all three of these on, and the Fiskars held its own.
SwedeFP
 
SwedeFP said:
I've been watching those axe patterns on fleabay for awhile, and they go pretty high for just the head. Others with convex cheeks are less, but the heavier ones are not that common. What about a Jersey or Plumb rockaway pattern and phantom bevels or maybe a wedge pattern like Maine axes? I've got a Stihl splitting maul, a Granfors bruks large splitting axe with 36 inch handle, and these are good splitters. But, I bit the bullet and bought a Fiskars X27 large super splitting axe with a 36 inch handle and 4 pound head for about $50-60. The handle is not as good as using a wood handled splitter, but the thing splits very well. I had about 30 feet of 34 inch dbh dead hickory tree that I used all three of these on, and the Fiskars held its own.
SwedeFP
Click to expand...
yeah the vintage ones do get up there in price but council makes a jersey 3.5lb head with the phantom bevels for about 50 bucks and I like that 3.5-4.5 range for my splitters. Although I do like the 2.25 boys axe for some lighter chores. Especially busting up short pine rounds for kindling.
I like the rockaway patterns I just always preferred the jersey a little more. I would venture to say the rockaway with the bevels would be good too.
 
348win., glad you are venturing forward, doing this. I heat our home only with fire wood, Emory oak and live oak. And have cut all our wood for over 25 yrs.. For limb work I like a 2 3/4- 3 lb. ax. For splitting I like a 5 lb. Council flat head Firemans ax and a 5lb. Craftsman splitting maul. If you split mostly hardwood you'll need one on these lines. If you split spruce or pine, then a 4 or 3 1/2 lb. will work. I burn 3 cords on most winters. The exercise will pay you important dividends. DM
 
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Cool thanks for all the replies.

If someone would like to sell me a rafting axe or axe head pm (private message) me if that's a thing on this forum. I'll also consider a 4ish pound plumb with cheeks.

I figure I can haft my own axe head with a little practice.

I'll consider the fiskers, I am aware of the option. 36" is long for me though..... I'm only 5'6" 150lbs. That's why I figured the lighter 4 to 4.5 lb rafting axe might be better for me.
 
348win,

The Fiskars comes in other sizes/handle lengths. Not the same as a super splitting axe but still 3.63 pounds vs 5.74 for the other. There is also an X25. I asked Fiskars about the difference between the X27 and the other super splitting axe and this was the reply:" The weight of both axe heads are the same they weigh 4.03lbs.
The only difference between the two is the grip on the handle. The X27 has a rubberized shock obsorb grip and the super splitting axe has the grip carved into the handle."

https://www.fiskars.com/en-us/garde...uls-and-machetes/splitting-axe-28-375591-1001

I don't have experience with one, but those Plumbs in the rockaway pattern look like they would have pretty good convex cheeks. There is an old post from a guy named Peter Vido (he has since passed away) that discusses this convex cheeks attribute of older axes. You may be able to find this through a forum search.
SwedeFP
 
First welcome to the forum! If you actually own a model 71, then I'm super envious as that is my dream rifle.

I split ~5 cords of wood with an axe every year from about the age of 15 until 5 years ago at about age 40. Being in VA and splitting horrible stuff like knotty oak, hickory, beech, and sweet gum, I only used splitting mauls - everything from 6lb up to a 10+lb all steel abomination. Then I discovered the Fiskars super splitter, and holy cow, what a revelation. I'm not sure what it weighs, maybe 6lbs total, but this thing splits SOOO nice, and takes less effort to do so. The original Fiskars super splitter I think is now called the X25 and has something like a 28 or 29" handle. They eventually made the X27 with the 36" handle because I think a lot of people think that splitting mauls need a 36" handle for some reason - but the original had a short handle.

NOW.... having said that, now that I'm "in to" axes, I also sometimes use a 5lb Flint edge rafting axe on a straight 28" handle. I use this primarily as a fallers axe - to drive wedges and split large rounds to make it easier to load in the truck. It works really well on straight grained stuff - but I wouldn't want to use it as a designated splitter. Honestly, nothing beats the fiskars - and like I said, I've used every manor of splitting maul made.

Also, In addition to splitting a crap ton of wood, I used to be an archeologist and have put in thousands of hours with a shovel. For either task, I REFUSE to use a fiberglass handled tool - horrible, just horrible. Nothing beats a wood handle. However - the handle on the fiskars is not plexiglass - its some kind of weird hollow plastic - and I don't mind it at all.

Here's a picture of my supersplitter - you can see it's well used. again, I think its the same as what is now called the X25 - but may be slightly different


and here is my 5lb rafting axe.


the rafting axe gets cool points and it's a great fallers axe, but again, doesn't hold a candle to the fiskars as a designated splitter.

oh wait, I know. actually, nothing is better than my pristine 5lb Flint edge rafting axe. You will never find one like it and it must be magic because wood just falls apart and stacks itself when touched by this axe. I might be willing to trade you though for your model 71, if you throw in some ammo.......
 
FLINT77, hey, that's some good reading about your experience with your Fiskars and the Flint edge rafting axe. I have almost mentioned the Baileys fallers axe which comes in a 4 or 5 pound head on a 28" straight hickory handle, and I believe could be made by Council Tool, but it doesn't have convex cheeks.
I bet we are pretty near in the same boat on that tough wood splitting, as I'm in Tennessee.
Heck, this thread is making want to go spilt some wood!
SwedeFP
 
Flint77

I do shoot a 348 carbine. LOVE it. Would never give it up.
I did laugh at your proposed trade though.

Man! I'm surprised the rafting axe isn't as magical as the fiskars!?!???!?
I thought for sure it would be

Tell me does your rafting axe stick in the wood???
I'm tryin to get away from sticky axes.

I'd like to try a high cheek axe (like a plumb Connecticut pattern or something), a rafting axe, and the fiskars. Side by side comparison.

I'm not a huge guy and am concerned running the mall or heavy fiskars May really rock my shoulder muscles and neck compared to having to swing a lighter axe a little harder.
 
So Flint, I think the rafting axe you own is a flat cheeked wedge. I'm looking at high cheek rafters. So the ones I'm lookin at are even less contact with the wood than a high cheek axe.
 
348win said:
So Flint, I think the rafting axe you own is a flat cheeked wedge. I'm looking at high cheek rafters. So the ones I'm lookin at are even less contact with the wood than a high cheek axe.
Click to expand...

No, it has high cheeks - as far as axes go. it doesn't have flared cheeks or anything, and maybe we are using the same word to mean different things. It's a vintage axe and has high cheeks in the same way we describe many vintage axes to have. It does not have flat cheeks like more modern axes. But yes, it will stick into wood. Any axe is going to stick into wood more than a maul will. Especially when you are splitting a big dense round - those are the hardest to break open with an axe. An axe just isn't meant for splitting wood, they are made for chopping - against the grain. I don't believe you will find an axe that won't get stuck sometimes. I've even stuck an 8lb maul into some big wet rounds before. That's why the fiskars works so well - it is really sharp, but then flares out quickly and makes it very difficult to get stuck. The Fiskars is not too heavy - its probably lighter than this rafting axe. I can see an 8lb maul on a 36" handle being taxing for some folks, but I don't think an X25 would hurt your shoulders. If you want to primarily split with an axe, there are different techniques, like twisting the axe right as it hits the wood -that helps. Also, knocking corners off the round instead of trying to split it down the middle is easier as well. Axes are going to work better for straight grained stuff like birch and red oak, especially stuff less than 12-15" across. Rounds that are really big in diameter are just unlikely to pop with an axe - it will just sink in there and stick. You can probably get away with using an axe for some, maybe even a lot of your splitting depending on what your wood is like, but if you try to split exclusively with an axe, you are going to work yourself way harder than you need to. One quick swing with a fixkars will pop a big round right open that would take 5 or (or way more) whacks with an axe.
 
Cool I'll strongly consider your recommendations.

I have been splitting the outer pieces off the rounds first. I haven't got into any tree over 20" yet. I did some beech though that I had to leave some behind. There was NO WAY that was gonna split by hand. I later found out others couldn't split in on the log splitter either!!
 
I just weighed by rafting axe and the fiskars - both weigh exactly 5.8 lbs total.

The rafting axe is a much more versitile tool, as it can split, chop and pound wedges. however, if I had to rely on one 'axe' for splitting it would be the fiskars. ok, I'll let it rest.

and yes, about the beech. every year we would scrounge wood from wherever we could get it. one year a neighboring property was clear cut and when they were done we went over and scavenged some of the left over scraps and stumps and rejects, etc. our booty included some huge beech rounds. I think those were some of the only pieces of wood that I can remember that we ever gave up on. I was in college at the time and in my prime and I think probably very few people could best me with a maul. I wailed and wailed on those things to no avail. My friends from college would all take turns wailing on them. it was ridiculous. hundreds of full power maul whacks had zero effect on them. we eventually rolled them down into the woods to rot. They are probably still there.
 
I cut a bunch of Gum once down in Eastern Virginia and hauled it home to split. That was the most twisted wood I ever tried to split !!!!! Burned that junk in the firepit.

Bill
 
I'm surprised this hasn't come up yet, but 348win, you are likely deep enough in to realize that 'a' splitting axe will never suffice. And there shouldn't be any reason to settle on just one either (finances aside). There is no perfect splitter because all wood is not the same. All conditions are not the same. And people are not the same.

I have three splitters I bring out to the wood pile by default. 5 lb Jersey (I've had it on a 36 and 32 inch over the last 25 years), a 4 pound Dayton (32") that's a bit thinner in the bit for fighting with stringier wood, and a 3.5 pound (32") Michigan bullet for straighter stuff. My wood stove will take up to 24" pieces but I generally buck no bigger than 21". I buck around knots, so my lengths vary quite a bit. I use the 3.5 lb axe for what I can (shorter and straight). The 4 pounder comes out next (but just for a second because it really is for stringy stuff), and the 5 pounder cleans up. No need to swing the 5 pounder all day if I don't have to. And (this is really really important!) it is waaaaaaaay more fun to have multiple axes to swing in one 'session'!

Based on your investment so far in research, and your watching of BBR, you ought to give in and accept that you're hooked and ask "What are the 3-5 splitting axe profiles should I be looking for to complete my portfolio?"

BTW, I'm in the Northeast as well- Vermont.
 
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