Choosing Fixed Survival Knife.

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Feb 17, 2017
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Hello Blade Forums users! I am a new user on this site, and I am looking for recommendations on a good fixed survival knife.

I've been looking at the TOPS Black Rhino
Esee 6
Ontario Rat 7
Tom Brown Tracker Knife

These are the blades I have really been looking into.

I prefer, 1095 steel.

Thanks for anyone who replies!
 
I would really recommend you look into something stainless like the Fallknivens, especially if you are using them often. I've found Carbon steels all wear away very rapidly on re-sharpening, losing a large amount of edge height and thus changing in geometry rapidly... This does mean they are easier to re-sharpen, but with diamond hones this is no longer that much of a real factor.

To me the current obsession with carbon steels for rugged "survival" knives is a fad based on falsehoods (great for manufacturers btw: Fast wear means cheap steel and longer lasting belts). They get to sell a good quality but second-rate low-cost product as if it was optimized premium stuff: Who would not want that? This is pretty much like selling 10 year old computers on the basis of "simplicity" and "ruggedness"... Only in the knife industry is this working on a large scale...

If you must stay small and cheap, get a Japanese made Cold Steel SRK, San Mai III or plain Aus-8, with nylon sheath, as the hollow ground geometry is better slicing than Fallkniven's convex, and Japanese-origin Aus-8 is better than just about anything else, including Taiwan-made anything... Japanese Nylon sheaths look thin but will not scratch your blade...

Second: Any knife much shorter than 8-10" is not a "survival" knife, since it has no chopping power at all: The only reason this is allowed to stand is because the fad of batoning is all the rage... Not well known is that Batoning will inevitably cause edge apex micro-folds, which again will lose you edge height and edge geometry faster in order to remove the folded part, even with stainless steels: If you enjoy dull or fast-dulling knives, do go for batoning!

Finally, for a good all-"arounder" that has chopping power in a small package, because of its hollow grind and high weight of 17 ounces, try the SOG Super-Bowie with a blade of 7.5". It is remarkable in performance and value for the size and price.

Gaston
 
Unless you always carry it with you, you'll probably not have it with you in the very unlikely event of finding yourself in a survival situation. It's not like such situations are planned events.
 
Hello jeffetcs,

What kind of price range are you looking for? Are you set on 1095 for any particular reason? (I don't find myself agreeing with Gaston a whole lot, but I do not understand the popularity of rust prone steels for outdoors knives when there are such nice stainless steels available. Sure, a lot of the characteristics of 1095 are nice compared to cheap low quality stainless steels, and you can get coatings that help protect carbon blades, but many of those coatings are ones I really don't like. I do not like high friction coatings on my blades since they make them less effective at cutting, which is kind of the main reason I use a knife. I guess that if you are not planning on using your knife to do things like cut food, whittle, skin an animal, or open boxes then it doesn't matter if it is hard to slice things, but then I don't know what you are doing with your knife other than chopping.)

And more importantly, when you say survival knife, how are you planning on using it? Are you planning on camping with it? Do you want a solid camp knife, or are you looking for something to beat sideways through trees for fun? Is it just going to sit in an emergency bag for years (if this is the case then I definitely recommend stainless)? Are you looking for something for hiking? In your survival scenario would you also have a hatchet or saw?

There are a lot of threads on the topic of survival knives here. The search function is your friend. It also helps to provide as much detail about what you want to be doing with your knife as possible.

For what it's worth, if you are asking which knife I would choose if I was dropped naked into the wilderness with only one knife, I would choose my Spartan Difensa because it meets my needs and I am familiar with it. But I also know from experience that my old German hunting knife served me just fine in woods (and desert and tundra) all over North America without being fancy or super robust. Without knowing your price range I can't help much more than that.

I don't have any experience trying to use a knife like the Tom Brown Tracker, and frankly do not understand the appeal. You could buy three of either of the other knives for the same price, and they are made of the same materials.

I have limited experience with the ESEE fixed blade knives, but that experience has all been positive. ESEE makes good knives.
 
Esse 6 is really nice ,can't go wrong .
Rat 7 and the rhino are decent
Not sure what you can do with a tracker ,not a fan
If you are open to ideas check out some different steels there are a lot of good ones out there
 
Ontario has a great 1095 Ht.

I have a TOPS 1095 blade, I spend more time sharpening that thing then I do chopping. Schrade's 1095 is much better and I got their 7 inch bush knife for 29 bucks, and it is well made, really surprised me.

Out of the ones you said, either Esee or Ontario. Another you might want to look at is Swamp Rat knives, it is not 1095 steel, but they are made well.
 
I would really recommend you look into something stainless like the Fallknivens, especially if you are using them often. I've found Carbon steels all wear away very rapidly on re-sharpening, losing a large amount of edge height and thus changing in geometry rapidly... This does mean they are easier to re-sharpen, but with diamond hones this is no longer that much of a real factor.

To me the current obsession with carbon steels for rugged "survival" knives is a fad based on falsehoods (great for manufacturers btw: Fast wear means cheap steel and longer lasting belts). They get to sell a good quality but second-rate low-cost product as if it was optimized premium stuff: Who would not want that? This is pretty much like selling 10 year old computers on the basis of "simplicity" and "ruggedness"... Only in the knife industry is this working on a large scale...

If you must stay small and cheap, get a Japanese made Cold Steel SRK, San Mai III or plain Aus-8, with nylon sheath, as the hollow ground geometry is better slicing than Fallkniven's convex, and Japanese-origin Aus-8 is better than just about anything else, including Taiwan-made anything... Japanese Nylon sheaths look thin but will not scratch your blade...

Second: Any knife much shorter than 8-10" is not a "survival" knife, since it has no chopping power at all: The only reason this is allowed to stand is because the fad of batoning is all the rage... Not well known is that Batoning will inevitably cause edge apex micro-folds, which again will lose you edge height and edge geometry faster in order to remove the folded part, even with stainless steels: If you enjoy dull or fast-dulling knives, do go for batoning!

Finally, for a good all-"arounder" that has chopping power in a small package, because of its hollow grind and high weight of 17 ounces, try the SOG Super-Bowie with a blade of 7.5". It is remarkable in performance and value for the size and price.

Gaston

To the original poster,

There us much in this quote to mislead and misinform you. As far as your options listed, the Esee has a 100% warranty, Tops has a warranty but not as good as Esee.

I saw Swamp Rat mentioned and will fully recommend them, the have the best warranty I have ever seen and the knives can and do take absurd amounts of abuse. I have fully tested and abused many Busse/Swamp Rat/Scrapyard knives.
 
To the original poster,

There us much in this quote to mislead and misinform you. As far as your options listed, the Esee has a 100% warranty, Tops has a warranty but not as good as Esee.

I saw Swamp Rat mentioned and will fully recommend them, the have the best warranty I have ever seen and the knives can and do take absurd amounts of abuse. I have fully tested and abused many Busse/Swamp Rat/Scrapyard knives.

I agree with all of this.

Gaston444 is well know around this forum for expressing... shall we say, interesting views (especially advice to newer members) regarding steels, edge angles, grinds and design that seem to diverge greatly from most (if not all) other member's experiences, to put it delicately. I have a Sog super bowie and it most certainly wouldn't be my first choice out of what I own in a survival situation. Just as an example, I'd take my Becker bk7 (widely available) or Ontario rd7 (discontinued but still in stock various places) over the super bowie any day of the week. For the price of the super bowie you can buy both and see which one you like better. Probably with change.

Abbydaddy's post makes some good points and raises some excellent questions that would really help us understand better what you're expecting out of the knife and zero in on better recommendations for you.
 
Hello Blade Forums users! I am a new user on this site, and I am looking for recommendations on a good fixed survival knife.

I've been looking at the TOPS Black Rhino
Esee 6
Ontario Rat 7
Tom Brown Tracker Knife

These are the blades I have really been looking into.

I prefer, 1095 steel.

Thanks for anyone who replies!

Welcome to the forum. What do you want to survive? Where are you surviving? Edit: didn't read/see abbydaddy's post till now.
 
Maybe a little bit about your activities and some particulars about what you think you'll be using the knife for would help to narrow down your choices. I would ignore the earlier comments about why stainless steel is better than carbon. Educate yourself a little about the types of steel and make your own decision. This is the place to ask those questions. Welcome to BF.--KV
 
Of the ones you listed, I would say either ESEE 6 or Ontario RAT 7 would be good "survival" knives. And 1095 with good heat treat is better than most any stainless. Myself, I'd prefer the large knife/small knife combination for "survival", but if you prefer one midsize do-it-all, then that's up to you. It all depends what you mean by survival. One mid-size knife like that is okay for what the average guy calls survival, meaning maybe backpacking, camping, etc. If you're talking really harsh conditions in the middle of nowhere, a backup knife is definitely necessary.
 
I think there are two schools of thought when it comes to the best "fixed blade survival knife"

Those who follow that any knife you have on you at the time is going to be your best choice, and those who follow that having a large stout blade is going to be the ideal choice. Personally I lean very strongly to the first category, so my recommended fixed blade knife is small, something that I know I will carry on me everywhere I go. You don't typically see folks walking around with big 5+" fixed blades. Thus, if I had to make a recommendation it'd fit within the 3-3.5 inch blade length area. From that category price then comes into play. You can find some rather nice blades for decent prices since they are smaller blades. Something like the esee izula is a popular choice.

But if you are looking at larger knives, I would highly recommend the Esee 6. All around great knife if you don't mind keeping it rust free. Price range is something typically helpful, as well as intended purposes for your knife. But if by survival knife you mean do it all knife? Then yeah, the Esee 6 is an excellent option in that price range (~$120)

And all the crap about stainless vs high carbon? It again depends on use and location. If you're around salt water a lot, I don't recommend a high carbon knife. I also don't recommend most stainless steels for high abuse knives. But there are some which are pretty tough.

Other good options include some of the knives in the becker lineup. The BK2 is a classic, and I'd be amazed if you broke that blade. As is the Esee 5. But a thicker blade won't slice as well as a thinner blade. There is a lot to factor in, so without more information it really is hard to give a proper recommendation
 
Get the ESEE 6
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I'll also say that I disagree with much of Gastons post.

There is no free lunch with steels. There are a few things that are in a sort of "give and take", so you try to find something that matches your needs. I won't pretend to be an expert, but broadly speaking, you have things like wear resistance, toughness/durability. In general, the softer the steel is, the tougher (harder to break/chip) it is. Also, many simple carbon steels are noted for their toughness, but not their wear resistance. There are carbon steels out there with very good wear resistance, so its not easy to just say "carbon" or "stainless" is the best. But in general, for a fixed blade "survival" knife, manufacturers tend to err on the side of tougher, rather than focusing on edge retention.

Thats not to say that the edge retention is "bad" though. Most of the big companies that make knives out of 1095 (a simple, relatively tough carbon steel), run them to ~56-58rc. I have multiple Becker knives, and have never had problems with the edges rolling/chipping from either chopping, or Batoning. So I think you'll be fine. Also, I've used mine for days of camping at a time without needing to resharpen. So its not like they're overly soft. For the record, Mr Ethan Becker (the designer of the Becker knives), says that he feels the steel used, and Heat treat given, gives a good "three day edge" for most use. I would tend to agree.

The hard part for most of us though, is what do you mean by a "survival knife". Does the knife "need" to chop? If so, then a blade length > ~8in or is definitely preferred. If not, I'd go for something smaller, probably in the 4-6in range. Do you plan to baton this knife mercilessly? If so, then maybe stick to a low carbon steel, in a thick blade stock (ESEE 5 or Becker BK2 both have .25in thick spines, and are neigh on indestructible). If not, then maybe you can get away with something a bit easier to handle/carry.

What would I recommend? With what you've said you like so far, I'd buy a Becker BK12 (made by Rowen, the company that makes ESEE knives, and carries the same warranty), or the ESEE 6 HM thats coming out soon.

Why is that? Well, they're about the same size as other knives you appear to like. I know I don't like finger choils, so that rules out the ESEE 6 (non HM). I also know for a "survival" knife, I want the handle to be comfortable and safe. I find the Becker handles very comfortable. ~6in of blade for both of them means that they can chop some in a pinch, but aren't as hard to use for small tasks as the larger knives. They both have 3/16in blade stock, so they are strong, but they have higher grinds, and are therefore still pretty "slicey".

Good luck finding something that works for you :).
 
I like 1095 for general use. I'm not sure what people are saying about carbon steel wearing down quickly, theres tons of decades old knives made out of carbon steel that people still carry today. Personally I agree with the sentiment that the best knife is the knife you'll carry. If you just want a beefy indestructable knife to throw in a car, then I'd get a BK7 and call it a day. If you want a knife to carry as a hiking/camping/edc I'd suggest something smaller, carrying and using a large knife as your main blade can be rather tedious if you don't really need it. If I was going to choose one of the ones you listed I'd probably go with the Esee 6. They have a good reputation and the full flat grind is supposed to be a pretty good. I think a lot of the TOPS designs are rather over the top and not particularly practical in a general survival situation. If you're new to knives in general you may want to pick up a mora and play around with it, as that convinced me that small knives could be just as durable as their larger counterparts, I pounded a mora robust tip first through a tree and never really looked back at my old quarter inch thick knife unless I know I really need to process a lot of wood without an axe.
 
I agree with all of this.

Gaston444 is well know around this forum for expressing... shall we say, interesting views (especially advice to newer members) regarding steels, edge angles, grinds and design that seem to diverge greatly from most (if not all) other member's experiences, to put it delicately. I have a Sog super bowie and it most certainly wouldn't be my first choice out of what I own in a survival situation. Just as an example, I'd take my Becker bk7 (widely available) or Ontario rd7 (discontinued but still in stock various places) over the super bowie any day of the week. For the price of the super bowie you can buy both and see which one you like better. Probably with change.

Abbydaddy's post makes some good points and raises some excellent questions that would really help us understand better what you're expecting out of the knife and zero in on better recommendations for you.

I would agree a BK-7 is a better choice than any 6 inch knife...

Its biggest advantages over the SOG would be its quality sheath and the huge carrying ability of its front pocket.

However, compared to the Super Bowie, it is still only 13.5 ounces to the SOG's 17.4 ounces...

Plus, the SOG is a stick tang, which could mean its weight distribution is slightly more blade-oriented: That plus the weight would call it for me...

I would also take 1/4" stock and a hollow grind over much thinner 3/16" stock and flat grind. My only reservation with the Super Bowie would be the Taiwan origin (which is why, to my eyes, it is so dirt-cheap)...

It would be nice to hear the reasons why you think the Super Bowie is not as good as the Bk-7: I am perfectly willing to listen... I hope it doesn't all revolve around hitting on it with a stick... ;)


Gaston

P.S. Workmanship-wise, the Becker often has a heat-curved blade and loose grinds (and sometimes the edge is not even remotely centered to the spine), so you can't really begrudge the SOG's price... The SOG is a work of art in comparison, and still less than half the price of a Sebenza...
 
For a small belt sheath knife for survival utility and built on the stouter side then I like Survive Knives GSO's. Survival knife is the one you have on you. If you just want a good knife on the survival theme then a Cold Steel SRK is your start line. Anything more is personal taste and more to do with you. Marketing, hype and other people's recommendations are a poor way to go about it. You will end up choosing your own or never quite know what you have got because its someone else's idea. Much is what you think a Survival Knife is.

However, if I was in a wilderness survival situation I'd have a Skrama. Urban survival then a credit card with a few K on it. What knife I carry any one day has more to do with what I'm wearing and local laws. Nice to have a tool or two in a survival situation but in truth its whats in your head that counts.
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In reality there are so many perfectly good knives to choose from. Esee 6 a solid choice as are Fallkniven A1, F1. For a few bucks more then a Survive knives GSO; for a few bucks less a Skrama and a 110 Jaakaripuukko or even J.P. Peltonen M95.
 
Fallkniven F1 would be my first choice, if that's the only cutting tool I had. My preferred choice would be a light ax (3/4 single bit Hudson's Bay) and a smallish blade, Mora or even a SAK.
 
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