How To Clean rust from blade

J

Joshua Daniel

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Jul 21, 2019
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So I'm new at this so no laughing LOL even though I'm laughing at myself. I have a Schrade Old Timer. I have no idea what type of steel it is. The only markings on it besides the brand name is (U.S.A. 2507).

I would like to know the best way to go about cleaning the rust and corrosion off these blades and off the inside of the knife with the least amount of work LOL. Some people said suck it and lemon juice others said white vinegar. So that's where I'm at so if anyone could help I would be very appreciative.
 
Joshua Daniel said:
So I'm new at this so no laughing LOL even though I'm laughing at myself. I have a Schrade Old Timer. I have no idea what type of steel it is. The only markings on it besides the brand name is (U.S.A. 2507).

I would like to know the best way to go about cleaning the rust and corrosion off these blades and off the inside of the knife with the least amount of work LOL. Some people said suck it and lemon juice others said white vinegar. So that's where I'm at so if anyone could help I would be very appreciative.
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Just take some wd40 and fine steel wool to scrub the rust off, it shouldn't take too long.
Use a small screwdriver or something to run the steel wool inside the knife.
Now if there's a lot of rust you can use a wire wheel in a Dremel, they're pretty fine and soft so they won't mess the blade all up if you don't go crazy.
Use medium speed and wear safety glasses, if you go full speed they spit wires like crazy.
It's what works for me if needed, but I probably would not do it to a valuable antique or anything.
For a good user like an OT it's fine, I can't guarantee it'll be big enough to get inside the knife all the way though.
You'll still have patina under the rust but that's okay.
The steel would be 1095, and they treated their steel well.

I say start with the steel wool and WD-40 though it shouldn't take long if the rust isn't too bad.
 
Hickory n steel said:
Just take some wd40 and fine steel wool to scrub the rust off, it shouldn't take too long.
Use a small screwdriver or something to run the steel wool inside the knife.
Now if there's a lot of rust you can use a wire wheel in a Dremel, they're pretty fine and soft so they won't mess the blade all up if you don't go crazy.
Use medium speed and wear safety glasses, if you go full speed they spit wires like crazy.
It's what works for me if needed, but I probably would not do it to a valuable antique or anything.
For a good user like an OT it's fine, I can't guarantee it'll be big enough to get inside the knife all the way though.
You'll still have patina under the rust but that's okay.
The steel would be 1095, and they treated their steel well.

I say start with the steel wool and WD-40 though it shouldn't take long if the rust isn't too bad.
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Thanks very much. I guess I did something wrong by asking a question on that forum. maybe I didn't read a rule or something. IDK. But I appreciate the help and I will definitely take your advice. Thanks bud
 
I don't like to soak using WD40 as it can really mess up scales. As can motor oil and and other grandpa's solutions.

I quite like using an acid to eat the rust off.

...or just a good polish with steel wool and some vinegar. Use a backer for the wool.
 
If anyone ever has rust on just a certain spot on the blade and you can hang the knife krud kutter rust remover would be a great option,it would also be great for a folder if you didn't mind taking the knife apart.

I've never used the stuff but every video I have seen on this stuff always get's great feedback.

 
If the rust is deeper than surface rust I will use the edge of an old copper penny with some solvent, Hoppe’s #9 typically, to gently scrape the rust away then finish the area with OOOO steel wool, then clean and oil the area. Any piece of copper will work, new penny coins are just copper coated so I use an old one dated from 1944 through 1981.
 
WD40 won't faze the synthetic scales on the Old Timer knives at all; it's harmless to them. The scales are a material essentially like Delrin, and won't be harmed by it. I've literally soaked a couple of Old Timer knives in WD40 for hours, to clean them up, with no harm done. And I wouldn't use anything acidic (vinegar, BKF) on the 1095 blades either, just to remove the rust. It's likely overkill for this task. The WD40 and steel wool would likely be the safer method to loosen up the rust.

Anything acidic, like vinegar, will further oxidize (patinate, rust) the 1095 of Schrade's blades. BKF will be more aggressive still. If you WANT to induce a patina with vinegar, that'll work (I've done it with one of mine). But the acidic process will still induce some more red rust along with the black oxide patina, which will need to be neutralized with baking soda afterward, in cleaning up the knife. Any acid left behind will cause more rusting, if it's not cleaned up thoroughly.
 
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Using acids (including vinegar) can cause hydrogen embrittlement on blades and other parts. It means the parts get brittle and easier to break-especially on thin parts like blades.
Having been in the knife restoration/making business for many years, I can say that WD 40 is one of the most innocuous substances used in the shop. Also one of the most useful.
I can not think of a handle material that WD 40 will harm- "grandpa's solution" or not. It works, and has worked for over 50 years. That's why they still sell it.
Dry 0000 steel wool works very well in removing rust, too.
 
I have used EvapoRust a good bit, but it darkens the metal so much. Takes a lot of scrubbing to lighten it back up. After watching that video 2 posts up, I'm gonna give crud cutter a try.
 
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