Cleaning a Norton Combination stone

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Jan 4, 2017
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Hi all, could anyone advise me please on the best way to clean a loaded Norton sharpening stone (only ever used with water) I have seen a video on Youtube that advises gun solvent and wire brush. Any thoughts ?

I have tried white spirit, which works well (thoroughly washed off afterwards) but I am concerned about damaging the stone ?

Can anyone help please ? Thank you
 
Hi all, could anyone advise me please on the best way to clean a loaded Norton sharpening stone (only ever used with water) I have seen a video on Youtube that advises gun solvent and wire brush. Any thoughts ?

I have tried white spirit, which works well (thoroughly washed off afterwards) but I am concerned about damaging the stone ?

Can anyone help please ? Thank you

Hi,
Do you know which stone exactly, or if its India or Crystolon?
Just curious, how many passes on the stone or how many knives sharpened?


Use warm water with soap/detergent/cleaner
and an old toothbrush or a more stiff stiff brush
and give it a scrub for a minute or two

If that doesn't work,
try a run through the dishwasher machine



If that doesn't work its time to resurface the stone, deglaze the hard way :) which is just a a 20 second lapping/rubb to scratch a new surface


The kerosene (or worse, gasoline) thing is for old/vintage/doorstop stones
used with the wrong kind of oil and grease... no need for that :)
 
Hi guys, thanks for your replies. I have tried to attach a photo without success. The stone is nothing fancy no markings or grit info, orange one side, slate colour on the other side. Thank you
 
My method to deal with a loaded stone is to lap it with wet 1000grit and a ceramic tile as a backing. Two birds as it were, although you will be loosing some total stone thickness.
 
Step 1: Scrub it under the sink with some Bar Keeper's Friend scouring powder and a brush. Scrub, scrub scrub. Rinse off well. Repeat if needed. No need to let it dry at this point.

Step 2: Get some sand (clean while builders sand or the kind used for kid's sandboxes, not the reddish stuff you put on your lawn) or coarse 60/90 grit silicon carbide lapidary grit, and a flat surface like a piece of tile, glass, or my personal favorite, a flat area of sidewalk. Using some water with a just a little liquid soap in it, lap the stone to refresh the surface.

To lap the stone, you put your loose abrasive on the flat surface, wet the stone in your bucket of lightly soapy water, and while holding the stone flat on top of your layer of grit, you work it side to side, back and forth, in figure 8s, circles, W's, X's, M's, alternating direction so that you are moving it every which way, trying to avoid putting too much pressure in any one direction so as not to slope towards the edges.

So ideally at this point, you are on your hands and knees by your carport scrubbing the sidewalk with a sharpening stone on a layer of wet sand. You will eventually grind the sand into powder but don't let that happen - add more grit if it wears down, you don't want to glaze and polish the stone, the idea is to flatten it while getting it to a fresh layer of abrasive. You don't need much sand, just a sprinking of it, not a thick layer. This is a relatively quick procdure - few minutes or so should do it unless the stone is really dished badly.

When you're done with that, rinse off really well in warm water, pat dry with a towel, and let it dry out naturally.

I would not spend more than $20 on stuff to recondition it, since you can buy new ones for the same $20. Hence the sidewalk & sand recommendation.


Edit: Just noticed that Bucketstove already linked you to almost identical information. I should have read more closely. You already have the info you need. :)
 
Step 1: Scrub it under the sink with some Bar Keeper's Friend scouring powder and a brush. Scrub, scrub scrub. Rinse off well. Repeat if needed. No need to let it dry at this point.

Step 2: Get some sand (clean while builders sand or the kind used for kid's sandboxes, not the reddish stuff you put on your lawn) or coarse 60/90 grit silicon carbide lapidary grit, and a flat surface like a piece of tile, glass, or my personal favorite, a flat area of sidewalk. Using some water with a just a little liquid soap in it, lap the stone to refresh the surface.

To lap the stone, you put your loose abrasive on the flat surface, wet the stone in your bucket of lightly soapy water, and while holding the stone flat on top of your layer of grit, you work it side to side, back and forth, in figure 8s, circles, W's, X's, M's, alternating direction so that you are moving it every which way, trying to avoid putting too much pressure in any one direction so as not to slope towards the edges.

So ideally at this point, you are on your hands and knees by your carport scrubbing the sidewalk with a sharpening stone on a layer of wet sand. You will eventually grind the sand into powder but don't let that happen - add more grit if it wears down, you don't want to glaze and polish the stone, the idea is to flatten it while getting it to a fresh layer of abrasive. You don't need much sand, just a sprinking of it, not a thick layer. This is a relatively quick procdure - few minutes or so should do it unless the stone is really dished badly.

When you're done with that, rinse off really well in warm water, pat dry with a towel, and let it dry out naturally.

I would not spend more than $20 on stuff to recondition it, since you can buy new ones for the same $20. Hence the sidewalk & sand recommendation.


Edit: Just noticed that Bucketstove already linked you to almost identical information. I should have read more closely. You already have the info you need. :)

:thumbup: All of the above.

I'll add this - by the time you're done the stone will probably work better than one straight out of the box, so well worth the time and effort.

If you use it with oil, it should never need this sort of treatment again.
 
Yeah, call me conformist but I always use honing oil with my oil stones. People claim that it's "messy" but I spend a heck of a lot more time cleaning up my kitchen counter after a session standing there with multiple water stones than I ever do sitting comfortably at my desk with some oil stones and a roll of paper towels. Once the stone is loaded up with oil (Norton India/Crystolon come pre-loaded) it doesn't take much oil during sharpening. And Arkansas stones don't absorb oil at all, so just a little is all you need on the surface.
 
Thanks guys for all your advice, it is much appreciated. I think I`ll try switching to oil for the Norton in future
 
My method to deal with a loaded stone is to lap it with wet 1000grit and a ceramic tile as a backing. Two birds as it were, although you will be loosing some total stone thickness.
Hi,
The norton india combination stone is ~100/~320 grit,
lapping with a finer grit like 1000 is not going to resurface the stone,
its just making it more duller / shiny , so it burnishes instead of cutting,

You can do the same just by rubbing directly on the ceramic tile


To recondition the india stone you need to use a coarser grit,
ideally only slightly coarser, for example 280 ,
or if using friable abrasive like silicon carbide
36 can work, first condition the coarse side 20 seconds max
then using the now broken down grit, condition the fine side 20 seconds max
 
I have the same stone and it is 150 grit coarse & 320 grit worked smoother to like 400 grit on the fine side. It should clean up well with Comet and a wire brush out on the driveway. Just dip the wire brush in water, sprinkle on some comet and scrub. Or WD-40 and a wire brush. Now to level it, I've done several of mine and they are a bear to do. Use a spot on the driveway that is level and coarse, around 100-50 grit, wet area and scrub. You can use some grit. It takes a lot of scrubbing. Seconds won't do it. A few minutes won't as the binders in the stone are very good. With a black felt marker, mark the stones surface with some diagonal lines. So, you can check progress. It takes me 45 mins. later. An hour of scrubbing is not excessive to get it done. DM
 
If I use oil on my oil stones, they never get clogged/glazed.
If they get clogged/glazed from using dry or with anything besides oil, I oil them and continue sharpening to clean them up.

Leveling is a different subject.
 
Hi David, I managed to clean it up a fair bit without having a go at lapping. I`m going to follow advice and try sharpening with oil (rather than water) this weekend. Many thanks to you and all the guys for your helpful advice, it is much appreciated.
 
You're welcome Paul. JPM, had it right. I use mineral oil and my India stone doesn't build up. Just wipe it clean with a cloth after each use. Should you see some swarf left, put more oil on it rub it in and wipe. Nothing crazy, just normal. It should come right off. Happy sharpening, DM
 
Step 1: Scrub it under the sink with some Bar Keeper's Friend scouring powder and a brush. Scrub, scrub scrub. Rinse off well. Repeat if needed. No need to let it dry at this point.

When you're done with that, rinse off really well in warm water, pat dry with a towel, and let it dry out naturally.

Hey "jc57" I was just getting ready to suggest the use of "Bar Keeper's Friend" cleaner myself. Here in the past two to three years I've been doing the vast majority of my sharpening with Spyderco's great ceramic sharpening tools and I've found that by doing a one-two step on them with common kitchen cleansers is just the ticket.

most of the time I'll get the worst of the embedded filings off with either "Comet" or "Ajax". Then I do my finish work with "Bar Keeper's Friend". Now Bar Keeper's Friend also has a liquid cleanser that I've had great luck with as well and I've even soaked stones in it like overnight and a so forth and it gets those stones looking factory new. But I just wasn't sure if BKF was the ticket for all other types of abrasive benchstones or not.

There were some stones we used in the machine shop where I once worked that we soaked in the coolant/lubricant that we used to keep parts cool with while working on them. And believe it or not it did seem to help to soak the stones in that liquid before cleaning them with BKF or other cleansers. Interesting thread!
 
I like BKF and it is dead cheap. There is a kitchen supply outlet store nearby that carries it and I stock up on it when they have a sale. I had tried Comet with Sharpmaker stones and it got them mostly clean but BKF would get them back to like new. Works great on the sink, too, as well as with stainless pots and pans. It seems to have some agent that removes metal oxidation. I have tried the liquid version but prefer the powder.
 
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