Cleaning a Smooth Leather Strop

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Oct 28, 2018
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I have two smooth leather strops that I made, I use them with diamond paste. Recently they've started loading up and are more difficult to knock off a Burr they also don't leave as fine of a finish. What should I do to clean them?
 
They can be wiped down with a clean rag moistened with something like WD-40 or isopropyl alcohol. Microfiber towels work very well for this. That'll remove most of the heavy swarf on the surface, and at least some of the old paste/compound that isn't embedded in the leather. The WD-40 will take a bit longer to dry out, up to a few hours; the alcohol will evaporate very quickly. Don't use excessive amounts of either on the leather; just enough to moisten the rag you're using, and no more. You can apply a little bit of leather conditioner afterward, if you want to. But on a leather strop used with a paste compound, it really isn't necessary to do so.

Very dirty leather strops of simple cowhide can also be lightly sanded down to remove most or all of the dirty/contaminated leather at the surface. Something like 100-150 grit paper as used for sanding wood (with garnet or aluminum oxide grit) will work well. The sanding will raise some 'nap' in the leather, leaving the surface somewhat suede-like. That suede-like surface also accepts and holds new compound more easily. With re-application of compound and some use afterward, the 'nap' in the leather will be pressed down, smooth & 'shiny' again, as it was originally.

I wouldn't recommend sanding on something like a high-end horsehide or barber's strop, which are not ordinarily used with compounds and of which the surface conditioning is a critical factor in how well they perform as a bare strop.
 
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Take a hair dryer and heat it up. Take a damp rag and rub the strop. Take another clean damp rag and do it again.
 
Stoddard Solvent, sold as either 'Odorless Paint Thinner,' 'White Spirits,' or 'Mineral Spirits," or as part of the WD-40 compound will clean it off perfectly. The WD-40 will also leave a lot of mineral oil, which is not really the best thing on a leather strop. If you have some Coleman fuel, that will really strip off everything, too, without leaving much as residue. Lighter fluid (naphtha) is another great solvent useful for cleaning strops. But nothing will beat plain old Stoddard Solvent. After cleaning, I'd rub the strop down with a couple of dabs of shoe cream just to revitalize the leather, but truth be told, you probably would never notice if it's been done or not.


Stitchawl
 
I have two smooth leather strops that I made, I use them with diamond paste. Recently they've started loading up and are more difficult to knock off a Burr they also don't leave as fine of a finish. What should I do to clean them?

For years I've used Permatex Hand Cleaner... has worked well for me. Here's a strop I did this a.m., just to snap a quick picture...

IMG-0311.jpg


... and that was just a couple of minutes rubbing it on with my fingers, then wipe off with a towel. If I want it a bit cleaner, I'll use an old toothbrush. (The white on the after pic... I started rubbing on some compound, before I remembered to take a picture). Cleans it up, and the lanolin/aloe refreshes the leather. (The cleaner does have water in it, but has never caused me any issues... just don't overdue it I guess). Smells good too. ;)

Just make sure it doesn't have pumice in the ingredients! :eek:
 
(The cleaner does have water in it, but has never caused me any issues... just don't overdue it I guess). :eek:


Just a quick note... maybe reduce some future stress... Water doesn't hurt leather. 'Real' saddle soap has been used with a big soft sponge and plenty of water to clean saddles and bridles for 200 years. "Belvoir Glycerine Soap" has been the saddle soap of choice since Great-granddad's day. Saddles have been out in the rain since they were first invented.

The problem starts when "drying" the leather. If you try to dry it too quickly you will run into problems. And if the leather is untreated or old, repeated wetting will further remove the natural oils in the leather causing it to dry and crack. Easy to avoid with the regular (once or twice a year only!) use of leather conditioners. For a strop, neutral color shoe cream (NOT polish or wax,) will do the job. Most Barber Supply shops sell a strop conditioning paste that is basically the same thing; any lanolin-based cream will work.


Stitchawl
 
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