Cleaning Buck 110 brass?

C

CanonRebelXTi

Joined
Oct 13, 2007
Messages
155
I have such a hard time keeping the brass on my Buck 110 clean. It gets these set in finger prints that dont seem to come out with polish, and they really bother me. Is there anything i can do get these off/keep them off? I use brasso, flitz and this other brass cleaner, but theyre still there. HELP!
 
flitz should get them off with enough buffing and to keep them off you can spray the brass with clear coat spray laquer once you have them shinny.,,i hope this helps.,,,VWB
 
I might suggest spraying the brass with a clear coat automotive lacquer. Tape off the wood handles, and steel, not sure what the lacquer would do to wood, might not hurt it, but I don't know. That would seal the brass from oxidation and oils from your hands. I'm sure others will be along with their tips.

vw, we must have been typing at the same time.:)
 
CanonRebelXTi said:
I have such a hard time keeping the brass on my Buck 110 clean. It gets these set in finger prints that dont seem to come out with polish, and they really bother me. Is there anything i can do get these off/keep them off? I use brasso, flitz and this other brass cleaner, but theyre still there. HELP!
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Welcome to the Buck forum!!

You may want to look for 110's with nickel silver bolsters. There a bunch of them out there. As well as being able to order them through the custom shop.

Sounds like you may as well jump on some of them, because you can't keep brass bolsters from tarnishing unless you polish about once a month.

So I predict you at having a fun search for nickel silver. :D
 
Try Miracle Cloth - it cleans up easier than polish and seems to provide better residual protection.
 
I have given up. The brass on my 110 folder and 192 Vanguard is really dark and smudgy and I let it stay that way. Otherwise I would have to be polishing the brass all the time.
 
i heard that Bucksway plans on haveing the brass on his club knife -
blackened or pickeled by leroy ...
this could be another option ....
other wise i agree cleaning brass is jest like in the Navy...
if ya dont do it all the time the job gets bigger and worse the longer it goes with out!!!
i wander if any one ever had the frames and blades crommed plated?
 
I personally like the look of the brass. It's just a pain in the butt to keep it clean. I must look like a mad man when I do polish it. I try my best not to touch it at all, even when it gets in the sheath. I look like im handling toxic waste.
 
I bought Metal-Glo from New Graham knives, cleans it up real nice, but doesn't stay that way. Kinda a losing battle.
 
i noticed lol. I just put it away and when i get around to it i clean it, its not as bad as most would think i just like the shinynesssss
 
Buck makes a product called White Lightening. It's a lube, but it's the kind of lube that dries and leaves a protectant film behind.

It's a wax-based product.

Try wiping some on with your finger, letting it dry over night and wiping it off, and seeing how that works. Just like waxing your car. From my experience, White Lightening is pretty persistent and leaves a film that stays put pretty well. (Even on the ball-detent of lock bars on framelocks like the Sebenza.)

If that doesn't work, at least White Lightening is a great product that you can use for all sorts of things.:thumbup:

.
 
I've been using Mother's Mag Wheel and Aluminum polish for a few years now and I'm very happy with it. Seems like it stays shiny longer.
Bob
 
just a thought here.
get to your local hobby/craft shop,buy a can of clear flat,(not gloss) spray laquer for sealing craft, polish your brass, hang and spray it. should keep it from oxidizing.
not sure how durable it will be. if need to remove it acetone should do the trick.
 
I use a product called Fluid Film that works quite well to prevent tarnish. You just need a very thin coat and as a plus, it lubricates and is 'food safe'. I also use it on leather with great results.
 
pholder said:
just a thought here.
get to your local hobby/craft shop,buy a can of clear flat,(not gloss) spray laquer for sealing craft, polish your brass, hang and spray it. should keep it from oxidizing.
not sure how durable it will be. if need to remove it acetone should do the trick.
Click to expand...

I tried this a few years ago on some muzzleloading rifles with brass bits. It was a spray on coating that was popular with boating people for spraying brass fittings on marine craft. It worked ok for a while but looks terrible once it starts to break down and I never bothered with it again.

I mentioned miracle cloth in a post further up this page but the other thing that can help is to use a synthetic rather than leather sheath. The brown leather Buck sheaths in particular do not mix well with brass.
 
CanonRebelXTi said:
Is Pocket carry an option or do you think itll mar up the brass/wood and dirty up the action?
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Sure, Pocket carry will fill it up with lint after a while. Just ask my Keltek p3at. Gotta blow it out weekly.

And yes, the brass will get scratched up. But thats what a user 110 is.

Gets to the thread about cleaning a 110. Most agree that hoseing it real good with wd40, blowing it out with an air compressor, a good soapy warm or hot water wash, and drop of light oil in the pivots.

This has worked for me since the early 70's.

The beauty part about the brass bolsters, when they do get so marred that you can't stand it. They can be worked with fine and ultra fine sand paper and brasso, and restored to near new condition.

Many of us have dont just that. And in several cases, the ones that have had to go back to Buck have come back looking nearly new. When Buck does a repair or upgrade, they clean one up real nice.

Nikon D80
 
I just let it tarnish--that's what brass does fer a livin'. I like my stuff natural. But, the old GI in me still polishes the brass when it needs it, and sometimes, even if it don't. I have a motorized buffer in my shop and with the right rouge, it only takes a second or two and gives me a reason to fondle my knives. Over the years, I've found lots of orphan Bucks, that are grimy and dirty, with or without leather, and could pick them up pretty reasonably. Clean'm up, polish'm up and make new leather and presto, you're back in business. I have a hard wheel on one side of my buffer for doing the scratches in the steel and a soft wheel for doing the brass/aluminum/and phenolic handles.

IMPORTANT NOTE: if you use a motorized buffing machine like mine to do the steel blades, don't try to rush the job and press too hard. The wheel will grab the blade and you won't like the results. It gets blood all over the work bench.

Jack
 
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